Sounds like you are helping many folks with the blinking green light on the Mitsubishi WD62725 62 Inch DLP Digital Cable Ready HDTV.
Could I also ask you for a set of plans to try and repair. I love this TV and don't want to discard. Thanks so much in advance.
Hey Larry I got a WD52725 set and had the 44 error codes, looked up a lot of info and have replaced capacitors on all the boards, a number were bulged. I got it all back together and got the fast blinking green power/timer light. I unplugged it and then plugged it back in tonight and it booted up okay and I was able to retune all the channels and watched for a while. I then turned it off and it went to the fast blinking LED again after I had put all the screws and covers back on. I can hear the fan run. So I guess what I am saying is I would like to have your documents so I can compare with what I have done, to make sure I didn't miss something.
look for a plug markedFC on the FMT board the orange wire on the plug install a small awich. when you turn on the set and the green light is flashing turn off the switch, when the light goes out turn the switch back on and turn on the set it will work like this for a short time. you might want to look at the caps on the fmt board. i have attached the repair docs, so you can make sure you replaced all the right caps.Here ya go. I have attached the documents you requested including the factory service manual so you can see how the TV set comes apart and also when you fix your TV set, you can see how the front screen comes off so you can clean the mirrors and lens. First if you have a checkerboard picture Check the input video diodes. You will find them on the FMT board upper left hand corner. D8F00 PART # 264P828010-diode-DAN202U/MA142W
D8FO1 " " " " "same part number C8F26 " 141P148000 CER (B25K-1M-K) C8F29 " " " ""same part number Formatter board #930B924001, on that board there are 5 caps 1000 ufd 35v that commonly go bad.
Replace all caps that are swollen, to Resolve your checker pattern problem:1. Tile or block pattern replace D8F00 and D8F01 part # 264P828010, also replace C8F26 and C8F29 part # 141P148000 (1 uFD, 25 V) on the FMT PCB (part # 930B924002).
The diodes have a stripe (line) that is the cathode, at one end of the device; the board will reflect that line. De solder as best as you can, glue is under the diodes, heat one end, while prying up, heat other end. It will come off with moderate to mid high heat I hope this helps I assume that when you turn on the TV the screen lights up with some pattern. If not then you need to re look at the supply board and the DM board. I would recommend that you replace all the caps that are called for in the repair information Even if the caps look good they may still be weak from the heat drying the electrolyte up. Replace them all with new ones they're cheap. This covers any that don't show signs of bulging. You should have a blink light when you first plug in the set wait for 1 to 2 min the light should stop blinking. Turn on TV and the light should be solid green. You should have a full screen if it works with picture if you have an input hooked up. If not you should see snowy or blank screen. If you cannot locate the capacitors, go to mouser.com, the link is at the bottom of the page. They will have what you need. DO
NOT USE RADIO SHACK CAPACITORS!! They are not the high temp. types and will blow up your TV set in a matter of months. Be sure to check all of the pictures and all of the caps before ordering, as you might be ordering several, as I have replaced as many as 15 in one DLP TV set before she worked. For this infor,ation and it takes a lot of my time to send these things as well as monitor the post for your TV set,or if you think I deserve something for my time I am asking for a
Small donation, nothing big, maybe 25 bucks or whatever you think is fair to help me pay for my Internet cost and the manuals I give out. Because I do not get or receive any compensation from anyone other than donations. and this is the only thing I can do to help me keep my internet connection and help at this time since my brain cancer surgery and radiation and chemo treatments as I am not allowed to work or drive because of the seizures. If you do wish to help out and donate, please use my e-mail address at pay pal. If you have any questions, please do not hesitate to ask me Via E-mail. Good Luck Go here to find the right capacitors you need: at least two of the 3300 caps and at least 10 to 12 1000MFD caps.http://www.mouser.com/search/refine.aspx?Ntt=140-HTRL16V1000-RC%09 And http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=N98n18CgKlweB%252bCgT..., you can also contact me directly here if you need any assistance. Another thing If you replace all of the capacitors and the set still does not work Suspect the DM PCB part # 934C116002 also Try removing the USB connector on the chassis and power up. If the blinking stops after 70 secs, then the reader is bad another trick is to, Try and disconnecting the FC connector to the FMT board and power up. If the blinking stops after 70 secs, then suspect the FMT card. Or the capacitors on this board if all else fails: Locate the DM board and remove the connector labeled "FC". Plug in your TV and wait for the hard drive fan to turn on, then off a few times and the LED will finally go out. If it has no hard drive just watch the green LED Now, plug the "FC" connector back in, and go watch TV! The only gotcha is that if you remove the power from the wall, you have to repeat the procedure. You can put a toggle switch between the orange wire that goes into the "FC" connector. This way, you can remotely do the reset. The DM is still broken, but this bypasses whatever check is done
1. Red status LED, self-diagnosis error 44, check for open F9A06 on the Power PCB part # 283P128050 on the Power PCB 2. Red lamp LED, self diagnosis error 34. Check for 5-volts DC at J-9 connector pin 1 and 2 on the Engine Driver PCB if missing replace the Power PCB part # 930B921001 3. LED stops blinking after 70 seconds of plug in but will not power on. This model is equipped with a keyboard lock feature; this can be mistaken as a no power condition. To unlock the keyboard press and hold the "menu" button on the front panel for 10 seconds 4. LED stops blinking after 70 seconds of plug in but will not power on. Check for 3.2 volts DC at connector LE pin 3 and 4 on the Control PCB, if low suspect problems with the switches/buttons on the Control PCB part # 935D776001 5. LED stops blinking after 70 seconds of plug in but will not power on. Keyboard is not locked and key inputs at connector LE pin 3 and 4 check good. Suspect the E2P PCB part # 934C121001 6. (LED does not stop blinking after plug in) Disconnect the USB connector from the card reader to the front from the Chassis, if the LED stops blinking after 70 seconds replace the Card Reader part # 299P271010. 7. (LED does not stop blinking after plug in) Disconnecting the USB connector from the Card Reader did not help. Remove connector FC from the FMT PCB and plug the unit in, if the LED stops blinking after 70 seconds with FC removed suspect a problem on the FMT PCB (part # 930B924001), if the LED keeps blinking with connector FC removed suspect a problem on the DM PCB (part # 934C116001). 8. (LED does not stop blinking after plug in) On the DM PCB (part # 934C116001) check C81A2, C81A3, C81B3 and C81B4 (1000 UFD, 16V, 105C),
Here is the POWER PWB with the known-problem caps (C9A37, C9A38, C9A51, C9A52, C9A61 and C9A62) highlighted and look at the larger 3300uf caps for swelling and replace as needed my pictures will not arttach
here's the FMT PWB with the known-problem caps (C8F19, C8F21, C8F22 and C8F27) highlighted:
and the DM PWB with the known-problem caps (C81A2, C81A3, C81B3 and C81B4) highlighted:
Here are close-ups of the bulging caps (C9A37, C9A38, C9A52 and C9A62) on the POWER PWB:
And here are close-ups of the bulging caps (C8F19 and C8F27) on the FMT PWB:
Here
is the POWER PWB with the known-problem caps (C9A37, C9A38, C9A51, C9A52, C9A61
and C9A62) highlighted and look at the larger 3300uf caps for swelling and
replace as needed
here's the FMT PWB with the known-problem caps (C8F19, C8F21, C8F22 and C8F27)
highlighted:
and the DM PWB with the known-problem caps (C81A2, C81A3, C81B3 and C81B4)
highlighted:
Here are close-ups of the bulging caps (C9A37, C9A38, C9A52 and C9A62) on the
POWER PWB:
And here are close-ups of the bulging caps (C8F19 and C8F27) on the FMT PWB:
Larry sir,
No attachments came through and the pictures do not show up on my browser. I will try restarting it to make sure, I would really like to see how those compare to mine.
CU
Arne
I used www.discounttvlamps.com for my lamp. They sell OSRAM or PHILIPS they try to push there PHILIPS by saying they last longer to me they are about the same. The PHILIPS are $10-20 more then the OSRAM.
So I replaced the 14 caps on the boards (2-3300 microfarad and 12 1000-microfarad) as detailed in the thread. Unfortunately, I am still getting the blinking green timer (power) light. The TV worked for approximately 10 minutes, then I unplugged to re-seat the chassis and no go. All wires have been confirmed as connected, except I have a connection on the E2P (connection EP) that does not have a connection. If I recall correctly, I do not remember seeing anything connected to it when I opened the TV.
I currently get the hard drive fan and that's it. If you could kindly send out the Repair Instructions for a Mits WD-62725 I would appreciate [email protected].
I have the Mitsubishi WD-62675 and the timer light is a fast blink. I cannot get it back no matter what I try. Could you please email the instructions and most likely parts that I will need to buy in order to fix this problem. My email is [email protected].
You seem to be the man regarding the Mitsubishi WD-62725 and the blinking green light of death. Can you forward information that others have requested concerning the fix for this issue. Thanks in advance for any help.
Larry would you mind sending me the repair instructions for the wd-62725 also? I have the green light of death and i cant seem to figure out how to get the boards out. [email protected].
Has anyone received the email with the instructions on how to fix the status light issue? If anyone could please forward me that message I would really appreciate it.
Here is how I fixed by Blinking Green Light of Death (BGLOD) issue on my WD-62725. From what I gather this is pretty much the process for the majority of the WD models. I felt after reading through hundreds of pages of information a nice compiled post might help others in the future.
From reading all of the posts I decided the issue was probably related to bad caps on the DM board. For starters I removed the back of the TV. After scratching my head for a few moments I decided I had best find a service manual to figure out how to remove the chassis. I used this one:
After some time I was able to remove the shiny chassis from the TV. Be careful disconnecting wires and label everything and anything if it is not labeled.
You may want to take some photos. I had to remove the air flow channels to get easy access to the wires. The hardest connector to remove was located on a card on the very far right on the back of the TV.
These are the soldering tools and solder I used from Radio Shack:
Radio Shack Parts
25 Watt Soldering Pencil: 64-2070
45 Watt Desoldering Iron: 64-2060
High-Tech Rosin Core Silver-Bearing Solder: 64-013
I tried a 15 watt soldering pencil to no avail. I spent way too much time of my life attempting to use solder braid and my 25 watt soldering pencil to desolder. Do not even hesitate and go buy the 45 watt desoldering iron. I removed the radial type capacitors in seconds. I thought I could get away with using the braid. Do not even try it, in my opinion.
Make sure and ground yourself by touching metal or using a grounded wrist strap available at Radio Shack. After cracking open the shiny box I visually inspected each card. I had some bulged capacitors on the FMT, DM and Terminal board. I replaced 4 16v 1000uf capacitors on both the DM and FMT board and 2 10v capacitors on the terminal board. The terminal board was a bit of a pain because it is attached to another card with pegs. Here is what I ordered from http://www.digikey.com/
qty 10 P13126-ND CAP 1000UF 35V ELECT EB RADIAL (4 for FMT and 4 for DM, 2 spares)
qty 2 P5521-ND CAP 1000UF 10V ELECT NHG RADIAL (used 2 on terminal board)
qty 2 P12353-ND CAP 1000UF 10V ELECT FM RADIAL (ordered these also incase the others would not fit on the terminal board)
Why the 35V caps instead of the 16v? This was the general recommendation of the forum. It is my understanding the 35v can better handle the voltage spikes these TVs experience. The P13126-ND capacitors are what others have been using, as well.
I have not seen too many complain about the terminal board but mine did in fact have 1 bulged capacitor so I replaced the two 1000uF 10v capacitors with the part numbers above.
I put everything back together and turned the TV on. I still had a blinking green light. I did some more research and found people were having issues with the power supply and the 3300uF capacitors. So I took it all out and looked at the power board. It did not have any visible issues but I ordered some new caps anyway. Here is what I ordered from Digikey:
qty 2 P5523-ND CAP 3300UF 10V ELECT NHG RADIAL
I put those new caps in and noticed this board also has 4 of the notoriously bad 16v 1000uF capacitors. Since I had two of my 35v 1000uF caps left I also replaced two of the 4 1000uF caps. I would recommend replacing all of them so when you place your digikey order make sure and get enough of the P13126-ND caps.
I put everything back together and still had the green blinking light. So I did some more research and found out about removing the FC connector from the FMT board and powering on the TV. Sure enough, the light went out. When the light goes out, you plug the FC connector back in and turn on the TV and it works. Here are the posts discussing this:
You can install a switch and use this method every time you lose power to the TV. I thought that was great, but I was not satisfied. I want to turn on my TV and not worry about a switch. I did some more research and found this issue is caused by more bad capacitors on the FMT board. These are not the fun and easy capacitors, these are surface mount capacitors (SMT). Great! A solution does exist and a wonderful user named tbully has made us a PowerPoint summing up pretty much all of the problems with these TVs and included pictures. Here is the link to the post that allowed me to move forward - downloading and reading this PowerPoint presentation is a must read and shows detailed pics of fixing the boards I mentioned above:
With this newly gained information I took out the chassis for a third time. I removed the FMT board and wrote down every single SMT capacitor on the board for reference. As you will see from tbully's presentation, not all SMT capacitors need to be replaced to fix the GBLOD issue relating to the FMT board. I replaced only the SMT capacitors he pointed out on the FMT, although many recommend you replace all SMT capacitors on the board. I placed yet another order from http://www.digikey.com/. Here is what I ordered:
qty 10 565-2446-1-ND CAP 100UF 16V ELECT MVY SMD (on FMT)
qty 10 565-2362-1-ND CAP 4.7UF 35V ELECT MVK SMD (on FMT)
qty 10 565-2356-1-ND CAP 47UF 16V ELECT MVK SMD (on FMT)
qty 10 P13126-ND CAP 1000UF 35V ELECT EB RADIAL (Spares)
I did not use all of these but bought 10 each to get the discount and have some spares. As you can see I also ordered 10 more of those notorious 1000uF capacitors that all should be replaced on this and the other boards.
I replaced all 18 SMT capacitors on the lower left quadrant of the FMT board. Starting with the first five on the bottom left hand side over to the second screw hole on the very bottom of the board. Count those bottom left 18 SMTs and you can visualize the ones that I replaced. The photo of the FMT board in tbully's presentation was slightly different than my FMT board.
I did a lot of reading on SMT soldering before attempting to do the SMT capacitor replacements. When the time came I still was not ready. You cannot use your desoldering iron. I used my 25 watt soldering pencil to lift one side of the capacitor at a time. Some suggested using two soldering irons at once. Ya, I would definately try that. The first capacitor I removed from the board caused the pad to solder to on the board to lift up. If you wreck these, you are pretty much screwed from what I gather. I ended up lifting about 10 solder pads all together but was very fortunate that none of them actually came off of the board. I spent about 1 hour removing and resoldering the new SMT capacitors on. If you know someone that knows how to do this, I would strongly suggest you ask them to help otherwise take your new capacitors and the board to a qualified electronics person.
I reconnected everything back to the chassis, said a prayer and plugged the TV in. The light blinked for 70 seconds and went out as expected. Problem solved. I now have TV for now.
A couple of things to mention. People that have done this fix have reported that down the road problems start to come back. Sometimes it is the GBLOD and other times it is a red light. This forum discusses these issues in detail if you take the time to go through the thousands of posts. I am hoping this fix will last me some time, but one never knows. I am willing to gamble.
Yes, the fan on the silver chassis runs ALL of the time, even when the TV is shut off. It does shut off if the power is turned off, of course. There are people that report their fans go bad. This will cause red blinking light errors from what I have read. While your TV is apart, make sure to clean the fans and blow out any excess dust using canned air.
Doing these fixes can permanently damage your boards so please be careful and be very patient. The TV is already broken, I guess, so maybe it does not matter. All in all it is a very fun and enriching experience especially when the TV works in the end. Good luck and have fun.
I'm having the same issue with my WD-73732. Can someone please send me the service manual so I can fix this and get back to watching movies? My email is [email protected]
our 62 mitsubishi DLP HD tv went out mysteriously last night; first green light blinking fast - couldn't stop it until we killed the power; then; turned it on heard the fan, no picture but sound is there through receiver; then it sounded like the fan was ramping up then the tv turned itself of and a red status light came on blinkng - 1 long blink then 3 short blinks continuously; today - unplugged the tv then plugged it back in and it came on for about 5 minutes - picture, sound no problems; then shut off by itself - tried again and same thing but shut off after 30 sec. Can you help - tv is now 5+ years old and out of warranty and concerned cost to fix may not be best option as other problems may be waiting.
We have a wd62725 that we had the boards recapped. Know that we are putting everything back together we have a FND connector that we cannot locate its mate. Can anyone advise where we might find the mate end to this connector.
Hey we just did repairs for the BGLOD but it is still blinking green, we have hit the reset button, what may be the problem? We sent the boards out to get it proffessionaly soddered so we know it isnt that. Please help
Larry, I have a 5 year old wd-62725 with the blinking green light issue. I would like to try and repair before trashing!...Can you please send me the repair information to [email protected]. Thanks so much!!
Hey all, I need those repair instructions for my 62725 with the blinking green light of death problem. Any help is greatly appreciated. Mostly i need tio know how to pull the DM module out and where exactly it is located. Thanks! my email [email protected]
Hi Larry,
Sounds like you are helping many folks with the blinking green light on the Mitsubishi WD62725 62 Inch DLP Digital Cable Ready HDTV.
Could I also ask you for a set of plans to try and repair. I love this TV and don't want to discard. Thanks so much in advance.
i have the same problem with my Mitsubishi and would like a copy of the how to fix instructions can you send it over?
Hey Larry I got a WD52725 set and had the 44 error codes, looked up a lot of info and have replaced capacitors on all the boards, a number were bulged. I got it all back together and got the fast blinking green power/timer light. I unplugged it and then plugged it back in tonight and it booted up okay and I was able to retune all the channels and watched for a while. I then turned it off and it went to the fast blinking LED again after I had put all the screws and covers back on. I can hear the fan run. So I guess what I am saying is I would like to have your documents so I can compare with what I have done, to make sure I didn't miss something.
Thank you [email protected]
look for a plug markedFC on the FMT board the orange wire on the plug install a small awich. when you turn on the set and the green light is flashing turn off the switch, when the light goes out turn the switch back on and turn on the set it will work like this for a short time. you might want to look at the caps on the fmt board. i have attached the repair docs, so you can make sure you replaced all the right caps.Here ya go. I have attached the documents you requested including the factory service manual so you can see how the TV set comes apart and also when you fix your TV set, you can see how the front screen comes off so you can clean the mirrors and lens. First if you have a checkerboard picture Check the input video diodes. You will find them on the FMT board upper left hand corner. D8F00 PART # 264P828010-diode-DAN202U/MA142W
D8FO1 " " " " "same part number C8F26 " 141P148000 CER (B25K-1M-K) C8F29 " " " ""same part number Formatter board #930B924001, on that board there are 5 caps 1000 ufd 35v that commonly go bad.
Replace all caps that are swollen, to Resolve your checker pattern problem:1. Tile or block pattern replace D8F00 and D8F01 part # 264P828010, also replace C8F26 and C8F29 part # 141P148000 (1 uFD, 25 V) on the FMT PCB (part # 930B924002).
The diodes have a stripe (line) that is the cathode, at one end of the device; the board will reflect that line. De solder as best as you can, glue is under the diodes, heat one end, while prying up, heat other end. It will come off with moderate to mid high heat I hope this helps I assume that when you turn on the TV the screen lights up with some pattern. If not then you need to re look at the supply board and the DM board. I would recommend that you replace all the caps that are called for in the repair information Even if the caps look good they may still be weak from the heat drying the electrolyte up. Replace them all with new ones they're cheap. This covers any that don't show signs of bulging. You should have a blink light when you first plug in the set wait for 1 to 2 min the light should stop blinking. Turn on TV and the light should be solid green. You should have a full screen if it works with picture if you have an input hooked up. If not you should see snowy or blank screen. If you cannot locate the capacitors, go to mouser.com, the link is at the bottom of the page. They will have what you need. DO
NOT USE RADIO SHACK CAPACITORS!! They are not the high temp. types and will blow up your TV set in a matter of months. Be sure to check all of the pictures and all of the caps before ordering, as you might be ordering several, as I have replaced as many as 15 in one DLP TV set before she worked. For this infor,ation and it takes a lot of my time to send these things as well as monitor the post for your TV set,or if you think I deserve something for my time I am asking for a
Small donation, nothing big, maybe 25 bucks or whatever you think is fair to help me pay for my Internet cost and the manuals I give out. Because I do not get or receive any compensation from anyone other than donations. and this is the only thing I can do to help me keep my internet connection and help at this time since my brain cancer surgery and radiation and chemo treatments as I am not allowed to work or drive because of the seizures. If you do wish to help out and donate, please use my e-mail address at pay pal. If you have any questions, please do not hesitate to ask me Via E-mail. Good Luck Go here to find the right capacitors you need: at least two of the 3300 caps and at least 10 to 12 1000MFD caps.http://www.mouser.com/search/refine.aspx?Ntt=140-HTRL16V1000-RC%09 And http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=N98n18CgKlweB%252bCgT..., you can also contact me directly here if you need any assistance. Another thing If you replace all of the capacitors and the set still does not work Suspect the DM PCB part # 934C116002 also Try removing the USB connector on the chassis and power up. If the blinking stops after 70 secs, then the reader is bad another trick is to, Try and disconnecting the FC connector to the FMT board and power up. If the blinking stops after 70 secs, then suspect the FMT card. Or the capacitors on this board if all else fails: Locate the DM board and remove the connector labeled "FC". Plug in your TV and wait for the hard drive fan to turn on, then off a few times and the LED will finally go out. If it has no hard drive just watch the green LED Now, plug the "FC" connector back in, and go watch TV! The only gotcha is that if you remove the power from the wall, you have to repeat the procedure. You can put a toggle switch between the orange wire that goes into the "FC" connector. This way, you can remotely do the reset. The DM is still broken, but this bypasses whatever check is done
1. Red status LED, self-diagnosis error 44, check for open F9A06 on the Power PCB part # 283P128050 on the Power PCB 2. Red lamp LED, self diagnosis error 34. Check for 5-volts DC at J-9 connector pin 1 and 2 on the Engine Driver PCB if missing replace the Power PCB part # 930B921001 3. LED stops blinking after 70 seconds of plug in but will not power on. This model is equipped with a keyboard lock feature; this can be mistaken as a no power condition. To unlock the keyboard press and hold the "menu" button on the front panel for 10 seconds 4. LED stops blinking after 70 seconds of plug in but will not power on. Check for 3.2 volts DC at connector LE pin 3 and 4 on the Control PCB, if low suspect problems with the switches/buttons on the Control PCB part # 935D776001 5. LED stops blinking after 70 seconds of plug in but will not power on. Keyboard is not locked and key inputs at connector LE pin 3 and 4 check good. Suspect the E2P PCB part # 934C121001 6. (LED does not stop blinking after plug in) Disconnect the USB connector from the card reader to the front from the Chassis, if the LED stops blinking after 70 seconds replace the Card Reader part # 299P271010. 7. (LED does not stop blinking after plug in) Disconnecting the USB connector from the Card Reader did not help. Remove connector FC from the FMT PCB and plug the unit in, if the LED stops blinking after 70 seconds with FC removed suspect a problem on the FMT PCB (part # 930B924001), if the LED keeps blinking with connector FC removed suspect a problem on the DM PCB (part # 934C116001). 8. (LED does not stop blinking after plug in) On the DM PCB (part # 934C116001) check C81A2, C81A3, C81B3 and C81B4 (1000 UFD, 16V, 105C),
Here is the POWER PWB with the known-problem caps (C9A37, C9A38, C9A51, C9A52, C9A61 and C9A62) highlighted and look at the larger 3300uf caps for swelling and replace as needed my pictures will not arttach
here's the FMT PWB with the known-problem caps (C8F19, C8F21, C8F22 and C8F27) highlighted:
and the DM PWB with the known-problem caps (C81A2, C81A3, C81B3 and C81B4) highlighted:
Here are close-ups of the bulging caps (C9A37, C9A38, C9A52 and C9A62) on the POWER PWB:
And here are close-ups of the bulging caps (C8F19 and C8F27) on the FMT PWB:
Here
is the POWER PWB with the known-problem caps (C9A37, C9A38, C9A51, C9A52, C9A61
and C9A62) highlighted and look at the larger 3300uf caps for swelling and
replace as needed
here's the FMT PWB with the known-problem caps (C8F19, C8F21, C8F22 and C8F27)
highlighted:
and the DM PWB with the known-problem caps (C81A2, C81A3, C81B3 and C81B4)
highlighted:
Here are close-ups of the bulging caps (C9A37, C9A38, C9A52 and C9A62) on the
POWER PWB:
And here are close-ups of the bulging caps (C8F19 and C8F27) on the FMT PWB:
Larry sir,
No attachments came through and the pictures do not show up on my browser. I will try restarting it to make sure, I would really like to see how those compare to mine.
CU
Arne
u are right the pictures will not attach but this will give you te bad cap numbers better than nothing i guess??
Larry D
Larry,
Is it possible to email me the documentation you have that you have been sending out. I would appreciate it.
Thank You
Arne
[email protected]
I used www.discounttvlamps.com for my lamp. They sell OSRAM or PHILIPS they try to push there PHILIPS by saying they last longer to me they are about the same. The PHILIPS are $10-20 more then the OSRAM.
Larry...
So I replaced the 14 caps on the boards (2-3300 microfarad and 12 1000-microfarad) as detailed in the thread. Unfortunately, I am still getting the blinking green timer (power) light. The TV worked for approximately 10 minutes, then I unplugged to re-seat the chassis and no go. All wires have been confirmed as connected, except I have a connection on the E2P (connection EP) that does not have a connection. If I recall correctly, I do not remember seeing anything connected to it when I opened the TV.
I currently get the hard drive fan and that's it. If you could kindly send out the Repair Instructions for a Mits WD-62725 I would appreciate [email protected].
Hello,
I have the Mitsubishi WD-62675 and the timer light is a fast blink. I cannot get it back no matter what I try. Could you please email the instructions and most likely parts that I will need to buy in order to fix this problem. My email is [email protected].
Thank you.
Larry,
You seem to be the man regarding the Mitsubishi WD-62725 and the blinking green light of death. Can you forward information that others have requested concerning the fix for this issue. Thanks in advance for any help.
Brian
[email protected]
Hello Larry,
Is it possible to email me the documentation you have that you have been sending out. I would appreciate it.
My email is: [email protected]
Thank you very much.
Regards,
Ralph
Larry,
I need the repair manual for the WD-62725 also.
Thank You !!!
Linnie...
[email protected]
Larry would you mind sending me the repair instructions for the wd-62725 also? I have the green light of death and i cant seem to figure out how to get the boards out. [email protected].
Thx alot.
Has anyone received the email with the instructions on how to fix the status light issue? If anyone could please forward me that message I would really appreciate it.
[email protected]
Thanks
Larry,
I have a WD-52725 and have the blinking green light problem. Please send me the insructions to fix it.
Thanks!
[email protected]
Here is how I fixed by Blinking Green Light of Death (BGLOD) issue on my WD-62725. From what I gather this is pretty much the process for the majority of the WD models. I felt after reading through hundreds of pages of information a nice compiled post might help others in the future.
From reading all of the posts I decided the issue was probably related to bad caps on the DM board. For starters I removed the back of the TV. After scratching my head for a few moments I decided I had best find a service manual to figure out how to remove the chassis. I used this one:
V26 Chassis Manual:
http://www.megaupload.com/?d=6MKC3A3V
File Name: "V26 - Chassis Replacment.pdf"
There is another post that references a service manual that I did not use but may help:
Post #4539
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=11287117#post11287117
After some time I was able to remove the shiny chassis from the TV. Be careful disconnecting wires and label everything and anything if it is not labeled.
You may want to take some photos. I had to remove the air flow channels to get easy access to the wires. The hardest connector to remove was located on a card on the very far right on the back of the TV.
These are the soldering tools and solder I used from Radio Shack:
Radio Shack Parts
25 Watt Soldering Pencil: 64-2070
45 Watt Desoldering Iron: 64-2060
High-Tech Rosin Core Silver-Bearing Solder: 64-013
I tried a 15 watt soldering pencil to no avail. I spent way too much time of my life attempting to use solder braid and my 25 watt soldering pencil to desolder. Do not even hesitate and go buy the 45 watt desoldering iron. I removed the radial type capacitors in seconds. I thought I could get away with using the braid. Do not even try it, in my opinion.
Make sure and ground yourself by touching metal or using a grounded wrist strap available at Radio Shack. After cracking open the shiny box I visually inspected each card. I had some bulged capacitors on the FMT, DM and Terminal board. I replaced 4 16v 1000uf capacitors on both the DM and FMT board and 2 10v capacitors on the terminal board. The terminal board was a bit of a pain because it is attached to another card with pegs. Here is what I ordered from http://www.digikey.com/
qty 10 P13126-ND CAP 1000UF 35V ELECT EB RADIAL (4 for FMT and 4 for DM, 2 spares)
qty 2 P5521-ND CAP 1000UF 10V ELECT NHG RADIAL (used 2 on terminal board)
qty 2 P12353-ND CAP 1000UF 10V ELECT FM RADIAL (ordered these also incase the others would not fit on the terminal board)
Why the 35V caps instead of the 16v? This was the general recommendation of the forum. It is my understanding the 35v can better handle the voltage spikes these TVs experience. The P13126-ND capacitors are what others have been using, as well.
I have not seen too many complain about the terminal board but mine did in fact have 1 bulged capacitor so I replaced the two 1000uF 10v capacitors with the part numbers above.
I put everything back together and turned the TV on. I still had a blinking green light. I did some more research and found people were having issues with the power supply and the 3300uF capacitors. So I took it all out and looked at the power board. It did not have any visible issues but I ordered some new caps anyway. Here is what I ordered from Digikey:
qty 2 P5523-ND CAP 3300UF 10V ELECT NHG RADIAL
I put those new caps in and noticed this board also has 4 of the notoriously bad 16v 1000uF capacitors. Since I had two of my 35v 1000uF caps left I also replaced two of the 4 1000uF caps. I would recommend replacing all of them so when you place your digikey order make sure and get enough of the P13126-ND caps.
I put everything back together and still had the green blinking light. So I did some more research and found out about removing the FC connector from the FMT board and powering on the TV. Sure enough, the light went out. When the light goes out, you plug the FC connector back in and turn on the TV and it works. Here are the posts discussing this:
Post #5837 for FMT Connector hack
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=14843576#post14843576
Post #5226 for FC Connector info
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=12765118#post12765118
You can install a switch and use this method every time you lose power to the TV. I thought that was great, but I was not satisfied. I want to turn on my TV and not worry about a switch. I did some more research and found this issue is caused by more bad capacitors on the FMT board. These are not the fun and easy capacitors, these are surface mount capacitors (SMT). Great! A solution does exist and a wonderful user named tbully has made us a PowerPoint summing up pretty much all of the problems with these TVs and included pictures. Here is the link to the post that allowed me to move forward - downloading and reading this PowerPoint presentation is a must read and shows detailed pics of fixing the boards I mentioned above:
Post #5936
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=15064509#post15064509
or
Post #5937
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=15064780#post15064780
With this newly gained information I took out the chassis for a third time. I removed the FMT board and wrote down every single SMT capacitor on the board for reference. As you will see from tbully's presentation, not all SMT capacitors need to be replaced to fix the GBLOD issue relating to the FMT board. I replaced only the SMT capacitors he pointed out on the FMT, although many recommend you replace all SMT capacitors on the board. I placed yet another order from http://www.digikey.com/. Here is what I ordered:
qty 10 565-2446-1-ND CAP 100UF 16V ELECT MVY SMD (on FMT)
qty 10 565-2362-1-ND CAP 4.7UF 35V ELECT MVK SMD (on FMT)
qty 10 565-2356-1-ND CAP 47UF 16V ELECT MVK SMD (on FMT)
qty 10 P13126-ND CAP 1000UF 35V ELECT EB RADIAL (Spares)
I did not use all of these but bought 10 each to get the discount and have some spares. As you can see I also ordered 10 more of those notorious 1000uF capacitors that all should be replaced on this and the other boards.
I replaced all 18 SMT capacitors on the lower left quadrant of the FMT board. Starting with the first five on the bottom left hand side over to the second screw hole on the very bottom of the board. Count those bottom left 18 SMTs and you can visualize the ones that I replaced. The photo of the FMT board in tbully's presentation was slightly different than my FMT board.
Refer to this picture of the FMT board if you have the same one as me:
Format Board:
http://img169.imageshack.us/my.php?image=formatpk2.jpg
I found that picture from this post:
Post #5261 for pictures
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=12792395#post12792395
I did a lot of reading on SMT soldering before attempting to do the SMT capacitor replacements. When the time came I still was not ready. You cannot use your desoldering iron. I used my 25 watt soldering pencil to lift one side of the capacitor at a time. Some suggested using two soldering irons at once. Ya, I would definately try that. The first capacitor I removed from the board caused the pad to solder to on the board to lift up. If you wreck these, you are pretty much screwed from what I gather. I ended up lifting about 10 solder pads all together but was very fortunate that none of them actually came off of the board. I spent about 1 hour removing and resoldering the new SMT capacitors on. If you know someone that knows how to do this, I would strongly suggest you ask them to help otherwise take your new capacitors and the board to a qualified electronics person.
I reconnected everything back to the chassis, said a prayer and plugged the TV in. The light blinked for 70 seconds and went out as expected. Problem solved. I now have TV for now.
A couple of things to mention. People that have done this fix have reported that down the road problems start to come back. Sometimes it is the GBLOD and other times it is a red light. This forum discusses these issues in detail if you take the time to go through the thousands of posts. I am hoping this fix will last me some time, but one never knows. I am willing to gamble.
Yes, the fan on the silver chassis runs ALL of the time, even when the TV is shut off. It does shut off if the power is turned off, of course. There are people that report their fans go bad. This will cause red blinking light errors from what I have read. While your TV is apart, make sure to clean the fans and blow out any excess dust using canned air.
Doing these fixes can permanently damage your boards so please be careful and be very patient. The TV is already broken, I guess, so maybe it does not matter. All in all it is a very fun and enriching experience especially when the TV works in the end. Good luck and have fun.
Larry, I have a 5 year old wd-62725 with the blinking green light. Can you please send me the repair information to [email protected] . Thank you John
I'm having the same issue with my WD-73732. Can someone please send me the service manual so I can fix this and get back to watching movies? My email is [email protected]
thanks in advance...
our 62 mitsubishi DLP HD tv went out mysteriously last night; first green light blinking fast - couldn't stop it until we killed the power; then; turned it on heard the fan, no picture but sound is there through receiver; then it sounded like the fan was ramping up then the tv turned itself of and a red status light came on blinkng - 1 long blink then 3 short blinks continuously; today - unplugged the tv then plugged it back in and it came on for about 5 minutes - picture, sound no problems; then shut off by itself - tried again and same thing but shut off after 30 sec. Can you help - tv is now 5+ years old and out of warranty and concerned cost to fix may not be best option as other problems may be waiting.
We have a wd62725 that we had the boards recapped. Know that we are putting everything back together we have a FND connector that we cannot locate its mate. Can anyone advise where we might find the mate end to this connector.
Thanks in advance
Hey we just did repairs for the BGLOD but it is still blinking green, we have hit the reset button, what may be the problem? We sent the boards out to get it proffessionaly soddered so we know it isnt that. Please help
I could sure use that repair manual if anyone still has it. My email is [email protected] Thank you!
My 62725 has now come up with a blue screen. I can manipulate the menu and change to a different device. Any ideas.
Larry, I have a 5 year old wd-62725 with the blinking green light issue. I would like to try and repair before trashing!...Can you please send me the repair information to [email protected]. Thanks so much!!
Dan
Hey all, I need those repair instructions for my 62725 with the blinking green light of death problem. Any help is greatly appreciated. Mostly i need tio know how to pull the DM module out and where exactly it is located. Thanks! my email [email protected]
I need the repair instructions as well. Could someone email them to me at ---------------? Thanks!
*Moderator's Note* - Email removed at the request of user.
Larry, i too have the wd-62725. I would greatly appreciate if you could send the repair info to [email protected].
Thanks
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