i changed my posting to include the procedure to copy to diffrent display modes. hope this helps.

zapdbf said: Saadat -- Yes, it is the main power for the stk's

Dear Zapdbf

Just wanted to let everybody know that you are the master!  I put the fuse in and my tv runs better than the day one, did not need to do any adjustment anywhere. it is perfect.  thanks and thanks again.

saadat

Hi Mike,

 I asked the same question on 9/15 in this thread.  I called it a "yikes" when the small red wire came out...  However, as you have done, I just pushed it back in and it has been working fine ever since.

 Nice job on the fix!

 Bruce

Mike,

 Can you remove the connector out of the transformer?  You might be able to push it down and turn it to get it out.  You could possibly re-use the connection, but make it shorter.  I don't know if you could use a lag screw to go into the hole, bite down on the wire/connector and turn it to pop it out.  I never disconnected those wires.  I left the board attached.

 Robert

mike, you can't remove it from the transformer side, I am really not sure what you are talking about with the lag screw, but this wire will have upwards of 30,000 volts it. It will arch 5 inches. if the insulation is damaged with a simple cut, it will arch through this cut, air is a conductor to this kind of voltage. there is enough current to stop your heart beating. This is a wire not to be experimenting with, if it is damaged or not seated correctly you don't want it falling out! This i strongly recommend fixing correctly. I just checked the manual and this is the model with the extra connector so you can just put it into the extra hole, and cover the empty one with the cap. Like i said before it can jump 5 inches so the cap is the only think keeping it from arching.

if it is the one i am thinking of it is the g2 or focus wire going to the screen/focus controls on the front of the tv. this is much lower voltage. about 200 ish volts on this wire. if you solder it well and tape it up good you should be ok with this one. if you have trouble with this wire, the picture will turn bright white and the tvset will shut off, if it becomes dis connected. It could cause the tubes to draw too much current, this voltage is used like a valve on a flood gate. if the voltage is missing the flood gate is wide open.  You may have to replace the flyback. if you cannot get to the end of the wire.

You are right.  I just checked the schematic and it a a tap off the flyback transformer marked MV (medium voltage?).  The block diagram shows it going 'TO FOCUS PACK'.

I cannot solder it because the pin is down inside the transformer housing.  I guess this wire is not meant to be disconnected.  What happens if someone need to replace the whole board?  How do they disconnect/replace this wire?

Yes it just pulls of of the focus block, it is a round pin. But you should try what i said about stripping back about 1/2 inch and push it in hard, it may clamp around the new wire.

Larry, I am in the same boat with this set. Are all of these prone to this condition? Formerly I worked on copiers for ten years so I am going to attempt this repair. If possible, could I too get a copy of the service manual or a link to the posted file for download. My email is jgbiius@yahoo.com. I do appreciate the work you have done here and have found your insight to the posters (like myself) very helpful.

Larry, Thanks for the manual. I was told sometimes re soldering the pins on the ICs would fix the problem. As a post I tried this and there was no change. I ordered the  sanyo Stk392-560ICs from mcminone but do you know if there is a place to order the 3.15A pico? mcminone told me they didnt have the 3.15A fuse. do you know of any other reputable sources?also that 3.15a fuse is a hard one to find do you think the 3.5a pico would be ok to use in a pinch?

Also, forgive me it has been a long time since i did board repair. I check continuity in the fuse with my meter and it showed continuity. however, if I remember right it would show that anyway from the other side of the circut....right? 

Just one more post for people who haven't done board repair before (and perhaps people who have). I was a conventional unsolder with wick person until yesterday. When I was looking for misc parts at radio shack I noticed an "unsoldering iron" for about 10 bucks. I bought it for this project. It unsoldered the ICs and fuses without wick in about 5 minutes. The conventional way puts alot of heat on the board for wicking. This little contraption slides over the pin and sucks the solder out with air using one hand! It barely heats up the area around the hole where the solder is removed. the ICs and fuses didnt require any more unsoldering to my surprise. Hope it helps.... And again thanks for the posts.

Larry,

The repair went fine. Advice for others doing it.... Attention to detail....cannot be stressed enough.

For the beginner... BE WARNED... if you havent done this before...dont attemt your first repair on your set. The prior warnings in this post are right on. The capacitors in this box are big enough to get you good. I have ten years working on electronics and even I stood back when I hit the power switch the first time after the repair.

 If you are a novice check the pico fuses on the power supply board first! I am not sure that the ICs were the issue. I had already unsoldered my ICs and ordered new ones when I found the blown fuse. I will not know if the fuse was the problem or not. If it was the repair would have cost 3 bucks plus my time. if you have gotten this far in the post and havent worked on boards much....that means unsoldering the fuses from the board to Ohm them.

As for you Larry Thanks. Your insight combined with the other contributors to this post made this repair relatively easy. Knowing what and where to look with a piece of equipment is most of the battle. again thanks.