Larry, I am in the same boat with this set. Are all of these prone to this condition? Formerly I worked on copiers for ten years so I am going to attempt this repair. If possible, could I too get a copy of the service manual or a link to the posted file for download. My email is [email protected]. I do appreciate the work you have done here and have found your insight to the posters (like myself) very helpful.
Larry, Thanks for the manual. I was told sometimes re soldering the pins on the ICs would fix the problem. As a post I tried this and there was no change. I ordered the sanyo Stk392-560ICs from mcminone but do you know if there is a place to order the 3.15A pico? mcminone told me they didnt have the 3.15A fuse. do you know of any other reputable sources?also that 3.15a fuse is a hard one to find do you think the 3.5a pico would be ok to use in a pinch?
Also, forgive me it has been a long time since i did board repair. I check continuity in the fuse with my meter and it showed continuity. however, if I remember right it would show that anyway from the other side of the circut....right?
Larry, I unsoldred all the fuses under the heat sink fins and they all ohm'd. I looked at your other post on sony tvs and noticed you mentioned checking on the power supply fuses. after checking them I found one that didnt ohm. At this point I have unsoldered the ICs because I checked the power supply fuses last (assuming that the problem was the IC's themselves) so I can't test the theory without more soldering. Could this bugger be the problem reather than the ICs themselves?
Just one more post for people who haven't done board repair before (and perhaps people who have). I was a conventional unsolder with wick person until yesterday. When I was looking for misc parts at radio shack I noticed an "unsoldering iron" for about 10 bucks. I bought it for this project. It unsoldered the ICs and fuses without wick in about 5 minutes. The conventional way puts alot of heat on the board for wicking. This little contraption slides over the pin and sucks the solder out with air using one hand! It barely heats up the area around the hole where the solder is removed. the ICs and fuses didnt require any more unsoldering to my surprise. Hope it helps.... And again thanks for the posts.
Yes, yes, and yes John. I like the solder sucker too! I have one with a vacum pump on the end. All I do is position the tip on the solder joint, press a small button on the soldering iron, and all the solder is gone.
The repair went fine. Advice for others doing it.... Attention to detail....cannot be stressed enough.
For the beginner... BE WARNED... if you havent done this before...dont attemt your first repair on your set. The prior warnings in this post are right on. The capacitors in this box are big enough to get you good. I have ten years working on electronics and even I stood back when I hit the power switch the first time after the repair.
If you are a novice check the pico fuses on the power supply board first! I am not sure that the ICs were the issue. I had already unsoldered my ICs and ordered new ones when I found the blown fuse. I will not know if the fuse was the problem or not. If it was the repair would have cost 3 bucks plus my time. if you have gotten this far in the post and havent worked on boards much....that means unsoldering the fuses from the board to Ohm them.
As for you Larry Thanks. Your insight combined with the other contributors to this post made this repair relatively easy. Knowing what and where to look with a piece of equipment is most of the battle. again thanks.
the fuse blown is a result of the ic's failure, fuses inside a tv never blow unless there is a reason! Fuses blow as a result of a failure not on their own.
Also the fuses do not have to be un-soldered from the board, they are a link back to a previous stage, so in order for a fuse to be effective the impedance to the previous stage must be infinity when they blow, in order for the fuse to do it's job. Test in circuit is fine.
thanks for the insight zapdbf. I havent dealt with picos before..... usually bus fuses on the equipment I work on or replace the board. the circit didnt ohm with the pico on the boars so i figured as much. My power is prone to surges and spikes from the grid so I dont always blame the electronics in the house for the internals going bad. Although my stuff is on surge proctectors, They too arent always reliable.
I too seem to have a convergence problem with my Sony KP4WT500 set and would greatly appreciate it if you would email me a copy of the service manual. (arangel at epix dot net) no spam
The set is also giving me a four blink diagnostic code on power-up but the symptoms do not match the description you give in your article on the codes. "Four blinks - No vertical Deflection (V STOP), Screen goes to a single horizontal line then the video signal muted. Check IC1509, Q1505."
The only symptom I have is the reds on screen are shifted right by about 2 inches on the left and right sides of the screen but are fairly close toward the center.
From information found here and other sites I found my way into the service menus and into the "PJE" screen where I considered trying to adjust the red convergence but doubted that there would be enough adjustment range to correct the problem, besides that would only mask an underlying problem. While I was in the "PJE" screen I did discover that the red will not adjust at all horizontally but is ok vertically. Green and blue both adjust ok in either plane. From this and info found here and with the partial schematic posted by Brian17 (Thanks Brian) it would seem that I have a problem with the convergence chip that controls Red-H or the associated output fuse or resistors.
I can't quite make out the component designations on the partial schematic that Brian posted thus a copy of the service manual would be of great help in locating the correct components and finding replacement parts.
BOTH IC's should be replaced at once. Do not buy just any old IC though. Buy only an original replacement type. Also do not forget to install plenty of heat sink compound on the new IC's before they installed. Read these articles before attempting this repair. They are very helpful, and will most likely solve any problems you may run into down the road with this repair. i will send you a copy of the service manual. Good Luck
I received the manual and did the pando thing and all is good. Thanks very much.
I have read all the articles you mention and have been involved in PC board design, assembly and repair (not TV's) for many years so the physical repair shouldn't be any problem.
As for the replacement IC's what do you mean by original replacement type? I have found sources for actual Sony parts at about $30 each, Sanyo parts for about $16 and generic ones for about $8.
I'll definitly stay away from the generic ones but am considering the Sanyo parts since they have the STK392-570's which I recall you mentioned in another post are an upgrade for the stock SKT392-560's. Do you think that would be acceptable or should I just stay with the original Sony parts.
Rusty A said: Larry, I received the manual and did the pando thing and all is good. Thanks very much. I have read all the articles you mention and have been involved in PC board design, assembly and repair (not TV's) for many years so the physical repair shouldn't be any problem. As for the replacement IC's what do you mean by original replacement type? I have found sources for actual Sony parts at about $30 each, Sanyo parts for about $16 and generic ones for about $8. I'll definitly stay away from the generic ones but am considering the Sanyo parts since they have the STK392-570's which I recall you mentioned in another post are an upgrade for the stock SKT392-560's. Do you think that would be acceptable or should I just stay with the original Sony parts. Rusty A.
Larry,
Could you send the service manual for KP-46WT500 please. (aussieoak at hotmail dot com)
I am having a problem with my sony KP-46WT500. It has a 3-d like effect all the time. I was wondering if anyone could give me a idea what is wrong with it and how much it would cost to fix it as well. Is there a self diagnostic test that the tv has? Thanks in advance
Man, this thread has gotten pretty long... hope everyone is doing well.
My TV has been sitting idle for the last couple months since all the local repair guys want to charge an arm and a leg. I was reading a bit here and zapdbf mentioned that a couple fuses on the G board could be blown. I checked them both and one of them is indeed blown.
My question is where can I find a replacement? Radioshack doesn't seem to carry anything that small. I did look around online and found a 5A picofuse but it had a 120V rating instead of the 90V on the original picofuse, does it matter? I want to be sure...
Have have had my TV sitting in the corner for quite some time now and today finally decided that I would rather give it a shot at fixing it than to have it sit there any longer. I have had a lot of experiance fixing different types of electronics and am willing to try anything.
Before ordering anything I decided to try to remove the two STK IC's and found it to be a lot more simple than I originally thought it would be. After that I decided to order the new IC's. You will be happy to know that I did not go with the cheap $6 ones. Only problem is that after reading almost this entire thread, It sounds like replacing the Pico fuses are likely. The problem is that I cant seem to find Pico fuses anywhere (much like Brian17 (above)). Any suggestions on where I can order those?
I dont think I will need the manual as the process seems to have been thouroughly explained throughout this thread. I will however keep you all posted on how the process goes!
Thank You,
Dan
(edit: Thank you rusty for providing a site to order the pico fuses!!)
Pokester said: I was able to find them at a local TV shop & electronics distributor... I paid $2.50 each (I had 3 blown) Um - DON'T use the SONY part number - it's a generic part number that applies to several very diff. valued parts on several sets/monitors... The value is written on the side of the picofuse (500 for 5A and 350 for 3.5A, etc)... the replacement will likely be banded like a reistor... Again, many thanks to Larry as his help and this forum saved a great set from hitting the dump....
Um - I don't think so. When a company like Sony assigns a part number to a component, it very uniquely identifies the component. While said component may be used in different models and may even be manufactured by different companies, the specifications for the component are the same.
While one may be able to find 5amp pico fuses locally, I opted to go for the Sony part # due to the fact that complete specifications for the fuse are not included in the manual. The manual just says 5 amp, 90 volt with no mention of the physical size and configuration of the fuse.
I feel more confident that by ordering by the Sony part# that the part will be a drop in replacement.
I reailze that's the NORMAL convention.. but, when I called Sony Parts we found that part # was used for several TVs and monitors... and was not even in their database as being in this TV... and had no description other than IC in the database.... only that they were $20/ea pus shipping...
So - I didn't trust them to send the right part (and wasn't about to pay $20/fuse)... as one was obviously marked 3500 and the other 5000... so they couldn't possibly have the same part #, but the schematic & parts list showed them as being the same...
Rusty, a fuse is a fuse is a fuse. as long as it has the same electrical configuration. It is nothing BUT a fuse man. You need not really in this case to worry about the voltage aspect, but the current or amperage. 5 amps is still five amps in this mind. No slamming intended, just my opinion.
Larry, I respect your knowledge and expertise in this area but think a general discussion of fuse types is in order for those who may not know.
This will explain a little about fuses and why I feel it's wise to order parts based on the manufacturers part # when possible.
Since we are talking about replacing the Pico fuses I'll limit the discussion to just those types. There generally 4 specifications of interest when considering Pico fuses. 1 - Voltage, 2 - Current (amps), 3 - Fuse Type, and 4 - Package type.
Voltage - Generally not an issue here. The Sony spec. for the fuse is 90v. A 125v or 250 fuse would be acceptable or even a 32v fuse since we are dealing with a 22v circuit.
Current (Amps) - 5 amps is 5 amps. You want to get the current rating as close as possible.
Package Type - Axial lead, Radial lead and Surface mount. This just refers to the physical packaging of the part. Axial leads come out the ends of the package while Radial leads come out the side of the package and Surface mount have no leads at all. Axial and Radial lead packages can often be substituted for one another with a little creative lead bending if there is enough clearance around the component. Surface mount generally requires a direct surface mount replacement.
Fuse Type - This is the most important electrical specification to consider here. In Pico fuses there are generally two types, Fast acting and Slow blow. While either type is usually rated to blow within 4 hours at 100% load, the Fast acting type will generally blow within 1 second at 200% load vs up to 60 seconds for the Slow blow type at 200% load. This makes the Fast blow type much better at protecting sensitive semiconductor circuits. If one substitutes a slow blow for a fast blow type damage to associated circuits could occur if the fuse doesn't blow quick enough and substituting a fast blow for a slow blow type could result in the fuse falsely blowing under normal operation conditions.
Now since Sony doesn't specify which type the fuse is I'm left to guess which type to get. Even if Sony did specify which type the fuse should be many of the online parts sites don't say which type their part is so I'm not sure what i'm getting.
If You can find a site that lists parts by Sony part # you can be pretty sure they have the direct drop-in replacement part that meets the Sony specs.
I know you probably get tired of this, but I am now wondering if you could send me a copy of the service manual to mert1177[a]yahoo.com.
Also, thank you very much for all the great assistance with this. Seems to be a common issue with a lot of people. By any chance do you know what causes this malfunction to happen and any things that can be done to help prevent it from occuring again?
No Dan, it is a weak design I guess. Not a lot that can be done to prevent it from happening again. But one thing for sure is to follow the proper guidelines from the types of IC's you use to how you install them. I will send you the manual as well as a link from a member here at techlore who will help you along the way and make the job easy to do if you have some know how and ingenuity. Good Luck.
Thanks for a valuable service to help us. I have a Sony KP-46WT500 manufactured Nov 2002. It has the convergence problems similar to others in the comments above. I'd like to have you email a copy of the service manual if possible to me at [email protected] so I can fix it too. Thanks again for your efforts.
Thanks, I may try that but I am not very eager to get back in there since it seems to working fine now...
Larry, I am in the same boat with this set. Are all of these prone to this condition? Formerly I worked on copiers for ten years so I am going to attempt this repair. If possible, could I too get a copy of the service manual or a link to the posted file for download. My email is [email protected]. I do appreciate the work you have done here and have found your insight to the posters (like myself) very helpful.
It should be on its way to you. Good luck.
Larry, Thanks for the manual. I was told sometimes re soldering the pins on the ICs would fix the problem. As a post I tried this and there was no change. I ordered the sanyo Stk392-560ICs from mcminone but do you know if there is a place to order the 3.15A pico? mcminone told me they didnt have the 3.15A fuse. do you know of any other reputable sources?also that 3.15a fuse is a hard one to find do you think the 3.5a pico would be ok to use in a pinch?
Also, forgive me it has been a long time since i did board repair. I check continuity in the fuse with my meter and it showed continuity. however, if I remember right it would show that anyway from the other side of the circut....right?
Larry, I unsoldred all the fuses under the heat sink fins and they all ohm'd. I looked at your other post on sony tvs and noticed you mentioned checking on the power supply fuses. after checking them I found one that didnt ohm. At this point I have unsoldered the ICs because I checked the power supply fuses last (assuming that the problem was the IC's themselves) so I can't test the theory without more soldering. Could this bugger be the problem reather than the ICs themselves?
Just one more post for people who haven't done board repair before (and perhaps people who have). I was a conventional unsolder with wick person until yesterday. When I was looking for misc parts at radio shack I noticed an "unsoldering iron" for about 10 bucks. I bought it for this project. It unsoldered the ICs and fuses without wick in about 5 minutes. The conventional way puts alot of heat on the board for wicking. This little contraption slides over the pin and sucks the solder out with air using one hand! It barely heats up the area around the hole where the solder is removed. the ICs and fuses didnt require any more unsoldering to my surprise. Hope it helps.... And again thanks for the posts.
Yes, yes, and yes John. I like the solder sucker too! I have one with a vacum pump on the end. All I do is position the tip on the solder joint, press a small button on the soldering iron, and all the solder is gone.
Larry,
The repair went fine. Advice for others doing it.... Attention to detail....cannot be stressed enough.
For the beginner... BE WARNED... if you havent done this before...dont attemt your first repair on your set. The prior warnings in this post are right on. The capacitors in this box are big enough to get you good. I have ten years working on electronics and even I stood back when I hit the power switch the first time after the repair.
If you are a novice check the pico fuses on the power supply board first! I am not sure that the ICs were the issue. I had already unsoldered my ICs and ordered new ones when I found the blown fuse. I will not know if the fuse was the problem or not. If it was the repair would have cost 3 bucks plus my time. if you have gotten this far in the post and havent worked on boards much....that means unsoldering the fuses from the board to Ohm them.
As for you Larry Thanks
. Your insight combined with the other contributors to this post made this repair relatively easy. Knowing what and where to look with a piece of equipment is most of the battle. again thanks.
johnny neptune -
the fuse blown is a result of the ic's failure, fuses inside a tv never blow unless there is a reason! Fuses blow as a result of a failure not on their own.
Also the fuses do not have to be un-soldered from the board, they are a link back to a previous stage, so in order for a fuse to be effective the impedance to the previous stage must be infinity when they blow, in order for the fuse to do it's job. Test in circuit is fine.
thanks for the insight zapdbf. I havent dealt with picos before..... usually bus fuses on the equipment I work on or replace the board. the circit didnt ohm with the pico on the boars so i figured as much. My power is prone to surges and spikes from the grid so I dont always blame the electronics in the house for the internals going bad. Although my stuff is on surge proctectors, They too arent always reliable.
Hi,
Could someone send me the service manual for the Sony KP-46WT500. I am replacing the blue tube and I am worried about the convergence.
Thanks
Hey Larry,
I too seem to have a convergence problem with my Sony KP4WT500 set and would greatly appreciate it if you would email me a copy of the service manual. (arangel at epix dot net) no spam
The set is also giving me a four blink diagnostic code on power-up but the symptoms do not match the description you give in your article on the codes. "Four blinks - No vertical Deflection (V STOP), Screen goes to a single horizontal line then the video signal muted. Check IC1509, Q1505."
The only symptom I have is the reds on screen are shifted right by about 2 inches on the left and right sides of the screen but are fairly close toward the center.
From information found here and other sites I found my way into the service menus and into the "PJE" screen where I considered trying to adjust the red convergence but doubted that there would be enough adjustment range to correct the problem, besides that would only mask an underlying problem. While I was in the "PJE" screen I did discover that the red will not adjust at all horizontally but is ok vertically. Green and blue both adjust ok in either plane. From this and info found here and with the partial schematic posted by Brian17 (Thanks Brian) it would seem that I have a problem with the convergence chip that controls Red-H or the associated output fuse or resistors.
I can't quite make out the component designations on the partial schematic that Brian posted thus a copy of the service manual would be of great help in locating the correct components and finding replacement parts.
Rusty A.
BOTH IC's should be replaced at once. Do not buy just any old IC though. Buy only an original replacement type. Also do not forget to install plenty of heat sink compound on the new IC's before they installed. Read these articles before attempting this repair. They are very helpful, and will most likely solve any problems you may run into down the road with this repair. i will send you a copy of the service manual. Good Luck
http://www.techlore.com/article/19631/Sony-Convergence-Procedure/
http://www.techlore.com/blog/entry/19694/Sony-Convergence-Repair-My-Sony-TV-has-a-distorted-picture-/
Larry,
I received the manual and did the pando thing and all is good. Thanks very much.
I have read all the articles you mention and have been involved in PC board design, assembly and repair (not TV's) for many years so the physical repair shouldn't be any problem.
As for the replacement IC's what do you mean by original replacement type? I have found sources for actual Sony parts at about $30 each, Sanyo parts for about $16 and generic ones for about $8.
I'll definitly stay away from the generic ones but am considering the Sanyo parts since they have the STK392-570's which I recall you mentioned in another post are an upgrade for the stock SKT392-560's. Do you think that would be acceptable or should I just stay with the original Sony parts.
Rusty A.
stay away from generics, and I would go with at least the original Sanyo type, NOT the Sanyo type replacements.
Larry,
Could you send the service manual for KP-46WT500 please. (aussieoak at hotmail dot com)
Thanks
Thanks
I am having a problem with my sony KP-46WT500. It has a 3-d like effect all the time. I was wondering if anyone could give me a idea what is wrong with it and how much it would cost to fix it as well. Is there a self diagnostic test that the tv has? Thanks in advance
Man, this thread has gotten pretty long... hope everyone is doing well.
My TV has been sitting idle for the last couple months since all the local repair guys want to charge an arm and a leg. I was reading a bit here and zapdbf mentioned that a couple fuses on the G board could be blown. I checked them both and one of them is indeed blown.
My question is where can I find a replacement? Radioshack doesn't seem to carry anything that small. I did look around online and found a 5A picofuse but it had a 120V rating instead of the 90V on the original picofuse, does it matter? I want to be sure...
Thanks in advance!
Brian
Brian,
I just ordered a couple of those fuses today Sony Part # 1-533-597-31.
You can get them at www.partstore.com just enter the above part # in the Search by part number box. They are $3.95 each, plus shipping of course.
Rusty A.
Have have had my TV sitting in the corner for quite some time now and today finally decided that I would rather give it a shot at fixing it than to have it sit there any longer. I have had a lot of experiance fixing different types of electronics and am willing to try anything.
Before ordering anything I decided to try to remove the two STK IC's and found it to be a lot more simple than I originally thought it would be. After that I decided to order the new IC's. You will be happy to know that I did not go with the cheap $6 ones. Only problem is that after reading almost this entire thread, It sounds like replacing the Pico fuses are likely. The problem is that I cant seem to find Pico fuses anywhere (much like Brian17 (above)). Any suggestions on where I can order those?
I dont think I will need the manual as the process seems to have been thouroughly explained throughout this thread. I will however keep you all posted on how the process goes!
Thank You,
Dan
(edit: Thank you rusty for providing a site to order the pico fuses!!)
I was able to find them at a local TV shop & electronics distributor... I paid $2.50 each (I had 3 blown)
Um - DON'T use the SONY part number - it's a generic part number that applies to several very diff. valued parts on several sets/monitors...
The value is written on the side of the picofuse (500 for 5A and 350 for 3.5A, etc)... the replacement will likely be banded like a reistor...
Again, many thanks to Larry as his help and this forum saved a great set from hitting the dump....
Um - I don't think so. When a company like Sony assigns a part number to a component, it very uniquely identifies the component. While said component may be used in different models and may even be manufactured by different companies, the specifications for the component are the same.
While one may be able to find 5amp pico fuses locally, I opted to go for the Sony part # due to the fact that complete specifications for the fuse are not included in the manual. The manual just says 5 amp, 90 volt with no mention of the physical size and configuration of the fuse.
I feel more confident that by ordering by the Sony part# that the part will be a drop in replacement.
Just my two cents worth.
I reailze that's the NORMAL convention.. but, when I called Sony Parts we found that part # was used for several TVs and monitors... and was not even in their database as being in this TV... and had no description other than IC in the database.... only that they were $20/ea pus shipping...
So - I didn't trust them to send the right part (and wasn't about to pay $20/fuse)... as one was obviously marked 3500 and the other 5000... so they couldn't possibly have the same part #, but the schematic & parts list showed them as being the same...
Rusty, a fuse is a fuse is a fuse. as long as it has the same electrical configuration. It is nothing BUT a fuse man. You need not really in this case to worry about the voltage aspect, but the current or amperage. 5 amps is still five amps in this mind. No slamming intended, just my opinion.
Larry
Larry,
I respect your knowledge and expertise in this area but think a general discussion of fuse types is in order for those who may not know.
This will explain a little about fuses and why I feel it's wise to order parts based on the manufacturers part # when possible.
Since we are talking about replacing the Pico fuses I'll limit the discussion to just those types.
There generally 4 specifications of interest when considering Pico fuses. 1 - Voltage, 2 - Current (amps), 3 - Fuse Type, and 4 - Package type.
Voltage - Generally not an issue here. The Sony spec. for the fuse is 90v. A 125v or 250 fuse would be acceptable or even a 32v fuse since we are dealing with a 22v circuit.
Current (Amps) - 5 amps is 5 amps. You want to get the current rating as close as possible.
Package Type - Axial lead, Radial lead and Surface mount. This just refers to the physical packaging of the part. Axial leads come out the ends of the package while Radial leads come out the side of the package and Surface mount have no leads at all. Axial and Radial lead packages can often be substituted for one another with a little creative lead bending if there is enough clearance around the component. Surface mount generally requires a direct surface mount replacement.
Fuse Type - This is the most important electrical specification to consider here. In Pico fuses there are generally two types, Fast acting and Slow blow. While either type is usually rated to blow within 4 hours at 100% load, the Fast acting type will generally blow within 1 second at 200% load vs up to 60 seconds for the Slow blow type at 200% load. This makes the Fast blow type much better at protecting sensitive semiconductor circuits.
If one substitutes a slow blow for a fast blow type damage to associated circuits could occur if the fuse doesn't blow quick enough and substituting a fast blow for a slow blow type could result in the fuse falsely blowing under normal operation conditions.
Now since Sony doesn't specify which type the fuse is I'm left to guess which type to get. Even if Sony did specify which type the fuse should be many of the online parts sites don't say which type their part is so I'm not sure what i'm getting.
If You can find a site that lists parts by Sony part # you can be pretty sure they have the direct drop-in replacement part that meets the Sony specs.
Here is a good article on fuses. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fuse_(electrical)
Rusty A.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fuse_%28electrical%29#Interrupting_rating
Hey Larry,
I know you probably get tired of this, but I am now wondering if you could send me a copy of the service manual to mert1177[a]yahoo.com.
Also, thank you very much for all the great assistance with this. Seems to be a common issue with a lot of people. By any chance do you know what causes this malfunction to happen and any things that can be done to help prevent it from occuring again?
Thanks,
Dan
No Dan, it is a weak design I guess. Not a lot that can be done to prevent it from happening again. But one thing for sure is to follow the proper guidelines from the types of IC's you use to how you install them. I will send you the manual as well as a link from a member here at techlore who will help you along the way and make the job easy to do if you have some know how and ingenuity. Good Luck.
http://www.techlore.com/blog/entry/19694/Sony-Convergence-Repair-My-Sony-TV-has-a-distorted-picture-/
http://www.techlore.com/article/19631/Sony-Convergence-Procedure/
Hi Larry,
Thanks for a valuable service to help us. I have a Sony KP-46WT500 manufactured Nov 2002. It has the convergence problems similar to others in the comments above. I'd like to have you email a copy of the service manual if possible to me at [email protected] so I can fix it too. Thanks again for your efforts.
Rod
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