Hey Bruce...

I had an older version of the manual that said to init the nvram by using 7-enter in the PJE mode... DO NOT DO THIS unless the convergence is still way off!!!   I didn't see the corrections until after I'd already done it.

If, after replacing the chips, your convergence is still way off and you're sure your fuses are good and all your solder joints are good... then the process is explained starting like page 25 or 29.... 

And yes... I hated discouraging Brian... because I am SO thankful for Larry as he's saving so many of us LOTS of money...   but, I seriously feared for his safety as he was asking how to use a MM.

And yeah... heh heh... the HV stuff is a serious bummer if you screw up & heart/breathing stop while you're working alone! 

I asked for 5 and 3.125 amp fast blow picofuses at a local TV shop and electronics supply...  I'm hoping this was right as the peeps at sony were no help.... and couldn't tell if their # was for the 5 or 3.125 size...

The fuses are under the heatsinks and on my tv, they were yellow and packaged like resistors.  I replaced 2-3 of the 3.125 on that board and one 5 amp blown on the power supply board...

Yeah - if your convergence looks close,  you should be able to use the flash focus in service mode...

If it works, the flashfocus completes and returns to prev. screen.  Then you can write the new offset data using <muting> <enter> (explained in the manual).  [Make sure you turn off bright lights and flip the cover back up to darken the set before you do this or you'll get a false code]

If it err's, it will return Sx [errcode] where x is the sensor and [errcode] refers to possible solution given in a tablein  the manual....

The UPS guy just dropped off my order from BD Enterprises with the STKs, heat sink grease and some wick.  I guess I'll replace the chips, check for any blown fuses I can find, check for fried resistors and fire it up.  I hope I won't blow the chips if I missed something, I assume it simply won't converge until I get it all...

Auto-convergence is nothing more then a preset convergence that is stored in an electronic memory and when you press the flash focus button, it calls up for this memory and inputs it or loads the preset settings into the electronic convergence circuit the same way that the service mode does it.  It should explain in the service manual how to set up the auto convergence. If you do not change the entire board, and only change the chips, the auto convergence should be ok. If you do however change out the entire board, the eeprom IC on the convergence board should be swapped out also.  Oh And BTW, I did send that manual to you my freind. I sent it to  bruce@ftcnet.net

"Those who do not know their opponet's arguments, do not completely understand their own".

Bruce - the latest pando seems to have issues for those of us who don't turn our computer off every day... so, try turning your computer off/on if you haven't since you installed...

A friend had the same issues, but when he rebooted he found all 5 things I sent him in the recieved tab....

Where did you buy the IC's from? Do the new IC's have Sanyo written on them?, And did you use heat sink compound on the back of the new IC's?

"Those who do not know their opponet's arguments, do not completely understand their own".

Hi Larry,

I bought the ICs from B&D Enterprises - and although the invoice says "Sanyo" the chips don't - which was concern to me after reading your comments....  I did use heat sink compound (ZnO Silicone).

I learned a few things I'd like to pass on.  First, I can't imagine doing this repair with it still in the TV as another website indicated (wire the board up and R&R the parts).  I started taking off the heatsinks, and with the heat required to wick the solder, I asked myself why I was taking them off in the first place.  So I left them on and simply took out the ICs.  I then checked for any blown pico fuses and found PS8001 open.  So it was 4:45 on Friday afternoon when I started frantically calling a TV shop to see if I could get one (I live in the Sierras and the closest resemblance of a town is over 30 min away....)  The guy said he had a 3A, not a 3.15A.  He said he replaces them all the time and they are more of a failure device than actually working close to their rating.  Since it was a lower value I decided to use it - we'll see...  He also said that he just looks at the board for burned resistors, if none, checks the pico fuses and if one is blown he checks the impedance of the IC where the fuse is connected.  If "OK", he just replaces the fuse, which he says are very delicate and can just break on their own.  This would save a lot of work if that's all it is....

The only "yikes!" I had doing this job is taking off the red wires from the HV xformer.  The secondary that goes to the other set of coils was kind of tough to push and twist 90 deg.  But the real problem was the other red wire going to the front panel pot panel..   I kept pulling/twisting/swearing until it just came out and looked like I had just pulled the wire out without a connector.  During reassembly, I just pushed back in.  Larry - what's the right way to take this wire out???

Larry - thanks again for your insight and everyone who has contributed to this thread.  I was very proud of myself, I must say, for doing it without a manual.

Along that thougt, I still haven't received an email with the manual.  Not to bug you, but am I doing something wrong??

Until later guys!

Robert, you are messing with the wrong controls! There is still a problem with the convergence so redo all the adjustments like they were before you started or you will have one heck of a mess when you do finally get the convergence working. I hope any changes you made in the service menu, you did write down the values first!? I certainly hope you did. You need to measure the voltages on the IC's using the schematic diagram and make sure there is - 20 to 25 volts and positive 20 to 25 volts. If there is not, there is a circuit protector or a small pico type fuse that is blown. If there is the proper voltage, you will need to check all of the resistors in the feedback circuit of the IC's. Sometimes peeps do get lucky and change the IC's and the set works great, but a lot of times this is not the case and further troubleshooting is needed.

"Those who do not know their opponet's arguments, do not completely understand their own".

Nope, always check voltages if a repair does not give you the proper results after you replace a part. Yes I agree the 22 volt pico fuses are bad. Also make sure there are no solder splashes as well as solder bridges around where you soldered. I have seen a tiny solder splash blow out the power supplies.

"Those who do not know their opponet's arguments, do not completely understand their own".

No sorry I do not live in the rattle area of the bay. Ground moves around way too much for me. And yes I do fix TVs for a living. How did you ever guess? Lol

"Those who do not know their opponet's arguments, do not completely understand their own".

There are no factory settings. You have to adjust the set from the service menu. If you do not know how to do this, play it safe and call out an authorized Sony repair person to make the alignments, as this is not the place to be experimenting around with. These settings, if not done properly, can destroy a TV set.

"Those who do not know their opponet's arguments, do not completely understand their own".

Well I stand corrected. Yes you can certainly use another sets settings for a baseline adjustment and go from there. Just rememebr, always write down anything you change just in case you need to go back and fix something. Great job!

"Those who do not know their opponet's arguments, do not completely understand their own".