OUR NETWORK: Dijit Community Explore3DTV My Open Router DVRplayground MediaSmart Home See all... About UsAdvertiseContact Us

 
Learn about scoring Forum's Raw Score: 198838.0
June 8, 2012 11:18 PM

Categories: Televisions and Projectors

Rating (0 votes)
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
Rate This!

Member Avatar

Matt965

Member
Joined: 12/15/2011

PLEASE READ EVERYTHING

I was told the TV had been sitting in a climate controlled storage room for a little over a year and the last time it was turned on, it worked perfectly. However, this is not the case now as I try to power on the TV. While it powers up, I hear the color wheel spin up, then about 3 or 4 cracklings sounds, and sometimes the fans all spin up before the TV powers down and tries again, only to repeat the same process until after the 3rd attempt. After finding out which side the crackling sound was coming from (left side looking at the front, right side looking from the rear), I pulled out the lamp and the ballast and tried to power on the TV once more. As I had thought, the crackling sound I was hearing was coming from the ballast, and each time the ballast crackled, the lamp would light up a little. I also noticed that there is this short cylindrical-shaped part on the ballast circuit board labeled "FS1" which is lighting up brightly each time the ballast crackles. The TV is also giving me a code 6-6 which confirms there is an issue with or relating to the lamp. To determine which part was at fault, I took my voltmeter at first to the input power for the ballast. It read 320 volts. Then I went to check the output voltage from the ballast and I found out that was a big mistake since all I heard was a sizzle sound in the voltmeter each time the ballast crackled. Although I ruined my voltmeter, it does seem like the voltage output from the ballast is not constant. Would this confirm a bad ballast? Or is there another test I need to do to confirm it?

Discussion:    Add a Comment | Comments 1-10 of 10 | Latest Comment

June 20, 2012 2:04 AM

Hey Matt, 

Take your remote and the next time you hear the tv power up punch "menu 1,2,3" and see if you don't get the "reset to factory" menu on the screen. Select reset and see if that doesn't fix the issue. I have a Mit WD-52628 with the green timer blinking issue after pulling and replacing the lamp. I believe everyone's issue with the green blink is the same in one problem after the lamp is replaced or when a power failure occurs. 

This was my fix. I was told DM board, capacitors, power board or ballast. The front reset button does not work in this case. It must be reset from the remote with "menu 1,2,3". Try it.

Kato

June 22, 2012 4:25 PM updated: June 22, 2012 4:27 PM

Sorry for late response.

Unfortunately, I do not have the original remote. I did try the reset button and it did nothing to fix the problem. I replaced the ballast and I didn't hear the crackling sound anymore. I also had to order a new lamp since the old one wouldn't light after replacing the ballast. A new lamp came in yesterday and the screen seems very dark. The new lamp is a genuine OSRAM Neolux lamp, not one of those Chinese knock-offs. I'm thinking the lamp is defective so I'm going to ask if the seller if he can send me another one.

I would check the capacitors on your DM board and the power supply as they have been known to fail. If any residue from the capacitors got on the circuit boards, clean off the boards with rubbing alcohol.

June 22, 2012 8:59 PM

Matt965 said: Sorry for late response. Unfortunately, I do not have the original remote. I did try the reset button and it did nothing to fix the problem. I replaced the ballast and I didn't hear the crackling sound anymore. I also had to order a new lamp since the old one wouldn't light after replacing the ballast. A new lamp came in yesterday and the screen seems very dark. The new lamp is a genuine OSRAM Neolux lamp, not one of those Chinese knock-offs. I'm thinking the lamp is defective so I'm going to ask if the seller if he can send me another one. I would check the capacitors on your DM board and the power supply as they have been known to fail. If any residue from the capacitors got on the circuit boards, clean off the boards with rubbing alcohol.
Can you get your hands on a universal programmable or a DirecTV white remote?

June 23, 2012 5:53 AM

I have a Comcast remote. Will that work?

June 25, 2012 3:38 AM

Can you access the TV's menu window with it? You may have to program the "tv" button to communicate and navigate the tv system.

Let me know.

Matt965 said: I have a Comcast remote. Will that work?

June 26, 2012 7:05 PM

Yes I can.

Update on TV: When I replaced the lamp, I had to put the housing back together (I ordered the bulb only) and the first time it was put back together, I didn't realize the bulb was sitting a little crooked inside its housing. What was happening was the lamp's light beam wasn't going straight down the light tunnel but was hitting a side instead, though some of the light was still making it to the DLP chip. After straightening out the lamp, the screen got a lot brighter to now acceptable levels.

Now I am starting to notice a little strange behavior from the TV though as it doesn't always want to turn on. Sometimes, it's the same symptom you have where the power light continuously blinks green. There was one time where I pushed the power button and the lamp didn't light and I was hearing a ticking sound coming from the color wheel, and after a few seconds, it let out a very loud whining noise. It did this 3 times before the status light turned red. I am thinking this TV hasn't been re-capped yet. I looked at the power supply and its caps look OK except for the giant one. It wasn't perfectly flat but wasn't bulged either. Eventually this TV is getting all new caps EVERYWHERE and doing that should make the TV behave normally.

June 27, 2012 5:07 PM

Matt965 said: Yes I can. Update on TV: When I replaced the lamp, I had to put the housing back together (I ordered the bulb only) and the first time it was put back together, I didn't realize the bulb was sitting a little crooked inside its housing. What was happening was the lamp's light beam wasn't going straight down the light tunnel but was hitting a side instead, though some of the light was still making it to the DLP chip. After straightening out the lamp, the screen got a lot brighter to now acceptable levels. Now I am starting to notice a little strange behavior from the TV though as it doesn't always want to turn on. Sometimes, it's the same symptom you have where the power light continuously blinks green. There was one time where I pushed the power button and the lamp didn't light and I was hearing a ticking sound coming from the color wheel, and after a few seconds, it let out a very loud whining noise. It did this 3 times before the status light turned red. I am thinking this TV hasn't been re-capped yet. I looked at the power supply and its caps look OK except for the giant one. It wasn't perfectly flat but wasn't bulged either. Eventually this TV is getting all new caps EVERYWHERE and doing that should make the TV behave normally.
 You said you disconnected the lamp at the housing, that's where you want to look and double check your contacts.  Was this a WD model mitsu? What reset procedure did try so far. Discount taking apart the tv for now and lets stay simple for a few troubleshoots and work with the remote.

July 6, 2012 1:09 AM

Kato said:
Matt965 said: Yes I can. Update on TV: When I replaced the lamp, I had to put the housing back together (I ordered the bulb only) and the first time it was put back together, I didn't realize the bulb was sitting a little crooked inside its housing. What was happening was the lamp's light beam wasn't going straight down the light tunnel but was hitting a side instead, though some of the light was still making it to the DLP chip. After straightening out the lamp, the screen got a lot brighter to now acceptable levels. Now I am starting to notice a little strange behavior from the TV though as it doesn't always want to turn on. Sometimes, it's the same symptom you have where the power light continuously blinks green. There was one time where I pushed the power button and the lamp didn't light and I was hearing a ticking sound coming from the color wheel, and after a few seconds, it let out a very loud whining noise. It did this 3 times before the status light turned red. I am thinking this TV hasn't been re-capped yet. I looked at the power supply and its caps look OK except for the giant one. It wasn't perfectly flat but wasn't bulged either. Eventually this TV is getting all new caps EVERYWHERE and doing that should make the TV behave normally.
 You said you disconnected the lamp at the housing, that's where you want to look and double check your contacts.  Was this a WD model mitsu? What reset procedure did try so far. Discount taking apart the tv for now and lets stay simple for a few troubleshoots and work with the remote.
Everything involving the lamp is fine now. To answer your question, I re-installed the lamp several times, pressed the reset button on the TV, checked for any error codes, and looked through the menus on the TV to see if I could reset the lamp timer.

July 6, 2012 1:10 AM

Oh yeah, this is a WD mitsubishi (65733)
I have noticed the TV behaves a little strangely though I think this is because of the capacitors on it. I see clues that there are bad ones on the signal board (at the very least).

July 6, 2012 1:45 AM updated: July 6, 2012 1:50 AM

Matt965 said: Oh yeah, this is a WD mitsubishi (65733) I have noticed the TV behaves a little strangely though I think this is because of the capacitors on it. I see clues that there are bad ones on the signal board (at the very least).

Hey Matt, 

An update on my WD Mit. I just sold it.  I had unplugged the unit from the wall by accident so when the guy came to see it it didn't just automatically come on with the AV 1 input from the cable box. It was a black screen with the sound of static.  The TV went to the coax input so I had to pull up the device menu and reselect the AV1 input to get the picture. ***I believe this happens because the tv has a setting "preference" in the programmenu to shut off the other unused inputs. I had not disabled the coax input so the tv went to default when it cam back on.***

My Samsung 46" does it to.  I notice there are more programming features on this brand so this is my suspicion why I think your issue is with the remote.

I offered to walk him thru it again if he got stuck. He called and I just couldn't get him to hit the right steps so. He also had another similiar unit his girlfriend had but with a damaged lamp. So I offered to come over and see what he was doing wrong.

Come to find out his 3 Directv universal remotes, with differing model numbers, did not get the TV's menu up like mine. Problem 1.

Problem 2, after many code programming attempts I learned his batteries were weak and the remote was not accepting the programming correctly.

Problem 3 He did not know to check the input setting to select AV1 where he had his cable box connect. So there was nothing wrong with the tv just user errors.

So finally I plugged the power cord into the wall the green timer light started rapid blinks.  I waited for it to finish blinking. After it stopped I pressed the power button on the front. (Note if the front panel of buttons are in "lock" mode then nothing will work as in my case and I needed a "fully" functioning remote for anything to work and the DTV RC64 worked nicely.)

After hiting the power button I had to press the "device" button to change the input settings. And walla. ***I must add that since we had remote control issues and could not make selections the tv powered itself off after 30 seconds.***

From this experience I don't believe I really need the "factory reset" either I just needed to learn how the tv powered up and what buttons to push and when.

I know yours has got to be doing the same thing. Keep at it.

Discussion:    Add a Comment | Back to Top | Comments 1-10 of 10 | Latest Comment

Add Your Reply

(will not be displayed)

Email me when comments are added to this thread

 
 

Please log in or register to participate in this community!

Log In

Remember

Not a member? Sign up!

Did you forget your password?

You can also log in using OpenID.

close this window
close this window