MTX Terminator Amp problem

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xxCarmaxx
MTX Terminator Amp problem

I'm having a problem with my 600W MTX Terminator amp, when I turn my stereo on, it hits twice, then three red lights flash on top of the amp, at first I thought this was ground issue, so I used an actaul sander to sand down the ground spot to remove any and all paint, and refashioned the ground wire to the spot.  That did not solve the issue. 

Next, I turned my stereo on, and unplugged the remote wire from the amp while the stereo was on, then when I plugged the remote wire back in, the red lights stopped flashing and it worked.  The issue is that I have to do this every time I want to listen to my subs.  Are there any known solutions to this problem?  I'd appreciate any and all constructive feedback, thank you!

 

- Austin

Matt Whitlock
I'd say it sounds more like a

I'd say it sounds more like a load issue than a power or ground issue, but I'd need more info about the setup. Like what subs do you have attached, and how are they attached?

If it flashes a few times it's probably not the line fuse, but it is worth looking into.

Also, is this a recent issue that just started happening, or is this a new setup that's never worked correctly?

xxCarmaxx
Here are the sub specs:

Here are the sub specs:

Model TN12-02
Description 12" Subwoofer
Impedance 2Ω
RMS Power (Watts) 200
Rec. RMS Amplifier Power (Watts) 100 - 200
Sensitivity (1W/1M) 86.4
Voice Coil 1.5"
Magnet Weight (oz.) 28
Mounting Depth 5.44"
Cut Out Diameter 11.078"
Sealed Enclosure Net Volume 1.25ft³
Vented Enclosure Net Volume 2.0ft³
Volume Displacement (SD x XMAX) (in³) 30.92
Tuning Frequency 35Hz

The inline fuse is still intact, and does not look burned. I bought this system on Saturday, and I didn't have this problem until this morning.

I have DB 4-gauge audio wire for the power and ground, its about half an 3/4th of an inch thick and is a very fine wire.

My remote wire is one of those blue wires you get out of a sub kit at wal*mart.

Matt Whitlock
Based on your description, it

Based on your description, it sounds like you're running the TN400/4, correct?

One thing I notice is that the TN400/4 doesn't appear to be 2-Ohm friendly in bridge mode. Assuming you're running bridged, take it out of bridge mode and just run it off one of the channels. See if you have the same issue.

xxCarmaxx
It's a 600W monoblock, so

It's a 600W monoblock, so bridging is not possible.

Matt Whitlock
xxCarmaxx said: It's a 600W

xxCarmaxx said: It's a 600W monoblock, so bridging is not possible.

Okay. The actual model number of the amp would be useful. I'm not finding an amp like that on the MTX website that I can check out.

xxCarmaxx
Okay, so I've narrowed down

Okay, so I've narrowed down the problem. If I turn the stereo on without the RCA's plugged in, it does not go into protect. Then I simply plug the RCA's in and proceed to play music, but if I turn the stereo on WITH the RCA's plugged in, it goes into protect.

Matt Whitlock
xxCarmaxx said: Okay, so I've

xxCarmaxx said: Okay, so I've narrowed down the problem. If I turn the stereo on without the RCA's plugged in, it does not go into protect. Then I simply plug the RCA's in and proceed to play music, but if I turn the stereo on WITH the RCA's plugged in, it goes into protect.

Interesting. I wonder if this is an electrical issue.  Does "Turn on the stereo" = start the engine? Or, does it die turning on the stereo while the car is already running?

xxCarmaxx
"turn on the stereo" =

"turn on the stereo" = turning the key to ON, which turns on the stereo. If the car is running, and I turn on the stereo, it will turn on if the RCA's are NOT plugged in. if they are, it will go into power protect.

Matt Whitlock
Hmmm... I have a few thoughts

Hmmm... I have a few thoughts, but we need to start narrowing down the issue between the sub, the amp, and the car.

Do you have another sub you could hook up to your to test with? Preferably something 4-ohm rated? If so, hook it up and see if the issue persists.

Another amp would be another thing to try, but that's probably more difficult.

kmkspfg
Similar problem ... only

Similar problem ... only works on full and hpf not log though . I'm thinking it has somethin to do with my gain I have ran to the front of car when I turn it on lpf subs make grinding sound and on fu it don't work at all on full

Kenjifujima
Another amplifier would be

Another amplifier would be another thing to try, but it's probably more difficult. WOW Gear

Jacob Stradiota
I also have a MTX Terminator

I also have a MTX Terminator package setup and 12inch Subs Model # TNA251 Mono Block 250 Watt RMS speakers rated for 1200. I'm having the same issues with the lights on top. If you have figured out how to narrow this down i look forward to hearing from you.

xxCarmaxx
Hey Jacob,

Hey Jacob,

The problem ended up being the RCA jacks on my head unit. If you have different RCA ports to use on the back of your head unit, use those.. or get a new head unit.

Smercer14
I am having this same problem

I am having this same problem. I have had this system since January 2013 and it worked great until April. Then every once in a while while I was listening to music the subs would shut off and the lights would be blinking. But after about 5 minutes it would stop blinking and the subs would turn on. Now the lights just blink and it won't stop at all. I moved my ground, that didn't work. I started my car and disconnected abd reconnected the remote wire( I saw that it worked on other forums) but it didn't work. I have the mtx terminator 250 watts rms mono block. Any suggestions? I'm about to just buy a new amp but I don't want to if that's not going to solve the problem.

nathan16
I have 2 12 inch mtx and they

I have 2 12 inch mtx and they hit like three times and stop from a 600 watt kenwood amp. why would this happen

Nicosjones
I'm not sure if this is a
Legit solution: I'm not sure if this is a legit solution but I own a TN 250 and  discovered the same thing happens to me so here's what I did: My setup: 2015 versa note,1 - 100watt kicker 12, MTX TN-250, basic sub install cable kit (no remote, just a remote wire) Problem: I don't have a remote so my remote wire was directly connected to the fuse box, so when the car turns on the stereo and amp/sub get power immediately and have a slight bump in power which causes it to over load and make the double or triple hit sound from the sub. Solution:  Cut/Splice the remote wire near the drivers seat, and add an On/Off switch from radio shack or anywhere else. So you can control when the sub/amp receives power. This is necessary to avoid the spike in voltage when the car turns on or off.  So I turn the car on with the subs off, then once the car is on, I hit the switch to turn the subs on. Before turning the car off, I have to remember to turn the subs switch off or else I will get the same double or triple hit sound from the sub. It gets annoying sometimes, but I'd rather keep it safe then make the subs do that every time i turn the car or off. And now I get to hit the switch and make the trunk go BOOM!  hope this helps.   -N
Nicosjones
Also I only have the white
Also I only have the white RCA plugged in because if I plug them both in it doesn't work and makes a continuous boom sound. 
 

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