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February 20, 2011 07:31 PM

Categories: Televisions and Projectors

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trailerdog52

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Joined: 02/13/2011

Hoping one of you expert techs can help me solve this problem. The TV is an RCA R52WH77YX81.  When I got the TV (cheap) the PO told me that he hadn't used it in a while and when he plugged it in, it did not work. I brought it home, plugged it in and POOF! with a few sparks out the back then nothing.

I have successfully fixed RCA TV's like this one by resoldering a burnt connection, replacing the common blown caps 110, 114 and 120. I have also successfully changed coolant, re-aligned the convergence, etc. with nothing more than a soldering iron and a multi meter from Harbor Freight. No prior knowledge or experience, just info from sites like this, FixYa, Google and the like. Never done it before but am very vigilant in gathering information and handy with tools.

I have had NO LUCK in finding a service manual for this chassis. I have one for an ITC222, but it does not have a parts list and the schematics do not exactly match what I have nor do the component board locations. The SKU on this board is PSB260, and from what I have gathered so far, ID's it as the ITC222A, as does the rear panel tag. This TV was produced in 2007 and is pretty clean.

So, to start with I pulled the deflection board because the first thing that was evident was the TDA8177 transistor was split in two. Also the resistors close to it at RF011 and RF012 had chunks missing from the sides where you could see the metal under the outer coating. Upon even closer inspection, CF032 capacitor was burnt looking, RF003 was black and RF004, RF005 and RL107 were suspect too.

I was guessing that the flyback had failed catastrophically, so I purchased a new (RCA) that matched mine from Ebay. It is a perfect replacement. I bought a new TDA8177 and an SC5588 transistor, along with the 110, 114 and 120 caps. I replaced RF011 with a 1.21 ohm, 1W, 1% mil spec resistor, RF012 with a 1.5 ohm, 1W 5%, RF003 with a 110k ohm, 1/4 W 1%, RF 004 and 005 with 3.3 k ohm 1/8 watt 5% and RL107 with a 1 k ohm 1/8W 5%. I replaced the CF032 with a metallized polyester 0.22uf 63V cap that matched the original perfectly.

When I plugged the TV back in, there was a loud pop and a green spark, but it looked like it came from the SSB board to the right. I pulled the plug, waited a minute and plugged it back in. Thought it might be a bad connection in one of the wires connecting the two and found I had not hooked one up from the SSB to the deflection board. I plugged it in and turned on the set. The standby light came on, the CRT's started to power up ( I saw them light up) and all that comes on the screen are a horizontal red, green and blue line. It cycles like that 3 times then goes off. The standby indicator does not stay on. I tried to get it to go into service mode, Chan- and Vol-  for 8 seconds and it does the same thing. I have held the power button down to see if an error code comes up and I get 1 flash followed by 9 more flashes. Error code 19 is Chassis not Recognized according to the web.

I looked over the board very carefully after that and found CL220 cap bulged on top... didn't notice it before. So I replace it and CL250 with a 470uf 35V radial cap. No change. There is one other thing I tried... when I took the D board out, there is a plug with a green and yellow wire that is not plugged into anything, and no place to plug it in. There is a plug just like it that has a blue and brown wire on it, but is plugged into the board at BF001 and comes from the far end of the board, kind of like a jumper. Just for fun, I plugged the green/yellow plug into BF001, but nothing changed. Tracing the wire the yellow appears to go to the Blue CRT and the green to the Red CRT.

I have read many posts on this chassis and know it is the scourge of many techs and that I should probably not waste my time. But I do get a thrill out of fixing something nice on the cheap and love to chase down problems and find solutions based on other's experience. I am gaining some understanding of how these things work and have even repaired 2 Sony KP57WS500 televisions with no parts, just some adjustments. I have a Samsung 67" DLP that was given to me over 1 1/2 years ago that needed nothing more than cleaning and a HDMI signal (the digital board needs the IC resoldered) but works OK. I have patience and time.

You can send me a personal email if you want even more detail, and I'm hoping to provide some of you with some brain energizing thought or even a chuckle at my expense.

Thanks!

Discussion:    Add a Comment | Comments 1-2 of 2 | Latest Comment

February 20, 2011 8:43 PM

Im not shure if you have seen the Service Field Guide that I uploaded but it has alot of usefull information in it more than the service manual.It has a troubleshooting guide for a dead set on page 73.It also has correct voltage chart and something like a shematic that is for ITC222,not shure if it applies to your chassis but heres the link anyway. http://www.techlore.com/download/31075/RCA-ITC222-Service-Field-Guide/

Click here--> http://www.tvrepairkits.com/xcart/home.php?partner=evilpea&bid=6 for all your electronic repair needs.

February 21, 2011 7:43 PM

Thanks for your reply. I have indeed downloaded all the pertinent manuals and help guides from the tech corner. Very useful information, however I lack a lot of the tools and expertise necessary to use them much. I do appreciate the details in the field guide and will try to perform some of the troubleshooting tasks with what I have. I was hoping for some more animated replies or suggestions from some mavericks that I'm sure frequent this site. The cowboy approach is not out of the question, but I do understand a lot of what is spelled out in the guide. It looks to me like the SSB is the culprit at this time. You are correct in saying that my board(s) are not quite the same.

Discussion:    Add a Comment | Comments 1-2 of 2 | Latest Comment

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