Mits WD-57733 Green Light Prob - Error 12

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TahoeBlue
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Mits WD-57733 Green Light Prob - Error 12

Continuous blinking green light ("timer" light). Error code is 12. No video, no sound. Checked bulb, appears to good. Did a System Reset with no luck. I'm willing (and able) to change out capacitors if the capacitors are the culprit. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thx!

evil
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http://www.techlore.com
Vipor
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Thanks, Evil, for the help. I

Thanks, Evil, for the help. I downloaded the docs you referenced, however, I had to download a service manual for my model (WD-57733). I noticed there is no direct reference to a DM board. There are 3 boards: Main, Power, and Terminal. I haven't yet disassembled the TV.

Just to confirm: The error 12 and blinking green light would indicate changing those capacitors on all/any of the 3 boards. Correct?

Thanks again.

Vipor
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Yes, it is a V36 chassis.

Yes, it is a V36 chassis. (Thanks, too, for the quick reply.)

evil
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Ive uploaded the manual on

Ive uploaded the manual on here

http://www.techlore.com/download/31112/Mitsubishi-chassis-V36-V36L-V37-V...

If the light blinks continuously that would be what most encounter when they have the bad cap problem.The only way to tell is to open it up and see if you can find any swollen caps.

Vipor
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Thanks for the service manual

Thanks for the service manual. I'll take her apart and see if I can find the caps. Would the potentially bad caps be on any or all of the three boards?

Vipor
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evil said: Ive uploaded the

evil said: Ive uploaded the manual on here http://www.techlore.com/download/31112/Mitsubishi-chassis-V36-V36L-V37-V37L-V... If the light blinks continuously that would be what most encounter when they have the bad cap problem.The only way to tell is to open it up and see if you can find any swollen caps.

I opened her up. I found two boards: Power supply and another PCB mounted beneath it (Main board???). On the PS board are three large capacitors with clear markings of 105 degrees C and GU(M). All appear to be okay -- no bulging tops or sides. I didn't pull the main board but I can see it contains no large capacitors.

Do I need to look further?

Also, I noticed this board uses lead-free solder. I've got the old-fashioned 60/40. Would I need to also use lead-free for repairs?

Thx.

evil
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After looking up the

After looking up the capacitors referenced in the repair documents I posted earlier and looking for the same capacitors in the parts list of the service manual for your model i've come to the realization that your set is a newer dlp set that doesnt have the same boards as the older ones that I posted the repair documents for.Back to square one check all fuses F9A00 F9A01 F9A02 F9D00 F9G00 F9G01 F9G02.

Vipor
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Darn! I had a bad feeling

Darn! I had a bad feeling about this when I opened up the back and it looked nothing like the photos I've seen from others who did their own repairs. I'm going to test the fuses as you suggested. I'm going to be busy for the next couple of days so I may not get back to get right away.

BTW: Your diligence and desire to help has not gone unappreciated. You've been of great assistance to me. (And probably to others as well.)

Many thanks!

Vipor
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I checked the fuses on the PS

I checked the fuses on the PS board -- they look like resistors -- and they're okay. On the other hand, the fuses on the Main board are "chip fuses". In appearance, these chip fuses look almost like a speck of dust -- literally. I don't know how to check if they're good or not. So, the three fuses on the Main board are of unknown condition.

Vipor
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Hi, Evil -- Any thoughts as

Hi, Evil -- Any thoughts as to what this problem may be? Thx

evil
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No sorry i've exhausted about

No sorry i've exhausted about all of my knowledge of DLP sets,I wish I had more advice to offer you,In your original post you said it doesnt make any sound also,does it make any clicking noises or can you hear a fan come on? When you get the error code,or when you try to turn it on,what other lights blink on the front if any?When it goes into shut down mode from the error do you turn the tv off before checking the fault code?

Vipor
Vipor's picture
Evil - I got another

Evil - I got another suggestion that it's the power supply at fault. So maybe it's a fixable solution but I don't have all the tools to do further troubleshooting. Actually, I'm going to give it to my brother-in-law and he may take it to a shop and see if it's a "cheap" fix.

When I turn on the TV, the timer light starts blinking immediately. No other lights light up. There is no clicking sound from any of the boards or from the speaker, nor does the fan spin up. As far as I know, when I retrieve the error code, the code continues to blink ... the set doesn't turn itself off. I have to pull the plug. (I think the only way to turn it off under any condition is to pull the plug.)

Again, thanks for your input.

evil
evil's picture
Keep us posted on the outcome

Keep us posted on the outcome,on page 52 of the manual it shows the schematic for the Main Power Supply,The only advice I can give you on that is good luck tracing it,and hot and cold grounds are two completely different grounds so dont use one when your supposed to use the other.

Vipor
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I'm certain I will hand over

I'm certain I will hand over the set to my brother-in-law and I'll let him take it to the repair shop. I've neither the space nor tools to troubleshoot this further. I'll let you know the outcome ... I'm just as curious as to the nature of the problem.

Jusica05
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What ever happened with this

What ever happened with this TV? I have one with the exact same issue.

Vipor
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I'm still having the Error 12

I'm still having the Error 12 problem. My brother-in-law has expressed interest in taking the TV (from me, free) and then seeing about repairing it. Unfortunately, he has yet to pick it up and it's taking up a lot of valuable room. I'll post any update.

Vipor
Vipor's picture
UPDATE: Took the set in for

UPDATE: Took the set in for diagnoses. The shop determined it's the MAIN BOARD. A new one (direct from Mits) costs $270 and their labor is $160 (which sounds way too high). Even if I purchased and installed the board myself, I think $270 (on top of the $60 diagnoses fee) is too much to have this repaired, especially since the TV displays a small, round, white spot in the middle of the set. (The warranty company finally -- FINALLY -- replaced the set but due only to my persistence ... but that's another story.) Hope this info helps!

evil
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Thank you for letting us know

Thank you for letting us know what the problem was.

Jusica05
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I replaced the smaller

I replaced the smaller capacitors on my 57733 board today and the GBLOD went away but it still doesn't work. Now, when I plug it in, the green light blinks for about a minute like it is resetting then it shuts off. At that point, when I push the power button it acts like it is trying to come on - I can hear a fan by the balast or bulb (not sure exactly where) starting and stopping I can also see flashes of light coming from the balast. It tries too start for almost a minute, then it stops. If I try to turn it on again, it does the same thing but then the lamp light goes red and if I push Menu+Input, it shows an error code 66. This bulb should only have about 2 weeks on it. It still "looks" perfect when I took it out.

TahoeBlue, you should send me your bulb and I can see if it will work in my TV!

evil
evil's picture
Lamp did not turn on at P-ON

Lamp did not turn on at P-ON sequence : Loose J4 connector
66(4) (No Lamp inserted) : Lamp Cartridge or poor
connection to lamp.
(Disconnected cable between ballast and lamp)
(Lamp-Enable goes to DM but not to Ballast)