Sony Television KP-61XBR38 Convergence Repair

UPDATE: June 12th: Finished installation of the STK4278-L ICs as described below. Reinstalled the D Board into the set and fired everything up. Sixty seconds of manually adjusting the Red, Blue, Yellow lines on the Convergence Menu and PERFECT !!!!! It's fixed.

 

First thing, I want to thank everyone who helps me during this process.

I plan to take detailed photos of the entire process and host it on my site in the hopes others will find the information helpful.



To contact me, emails can be sent to jim DOT sutton AT gmail DOT com



My TV is a 61 inch Sony rear projection.

Model: KP-61XBR38

The TV was installed (built-in) in a basement family room when we purchased the house in 2000. It has worked faithfully and been the center of our movie watching until March or so of this year. I'll look at the tag on the back to be accurate, but I believe this set is 14-15 years old.

I should state my thanks to the kind people and knowledgeable, selfless MODERATORS at TECHLORE (http://www.techlore.com) who've posted numerous articles addressing Convergence issues and repairs with SONY televisions.

 

As this is a WORK -IN-PROGRESS, I'll begin to post pictures documenting my progress and repair effort.

Picture 1:

Taken of the D Board while still installed after removing the front fascia of the KP-61xbr38 set.

A full size version of the following picture is available: http://www.sutton.org/images/1_SONY_KP61BXR38_D board_installed.jpg

Note in the picture to the right -- the black plastic items are the two STK4278-L ICs which we'll need to replace. They literally hang off the right side of the board when the tray is removed. That'll be an interesting soldering task -- I'll have to think about how to secure both the board and the new ICs for soldering. The STK4278-ls are slightly raised by the tray frame - they are not mounted flush with the D Board itself..

Picture 2:

Taken of the D Board after removing from the television.

A full size version of the following picture is available: http://www.sutton.org/images/2_Removed_Full_D board.jpg

There were eight (8) wire bundles that I labeled 1-8 before removal. The Board is mounted in an aluminum carrier or tray that is secured to television chassis before only four (4) screws.

Again note in the picture to the right -- the black plastic items are the two STK4278-L ICs which we'll need to replace. They literally hang off the right side of the board when the tray is removed.

 

Picture 3:

RIGHT side D Board .

A full size version of the following picture is available: http://www.sutton.org/images/3_Right_side_D board.jpg

Picture 4:

LEFT side D Board .

A full size version of the following picture is available: http://www.sutton.org/images/7_Left_side_D_board.jpg

Picture 5:

Top CENTER side D Board .

A full size version of the following picture is available: http://www.sutton.org/images/6_Center_Top_D_ board.jpg

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Picture 6:

RIGHT Side of D Board STK4278-l mount description (showing IC supported by aluminum tray)

I am seeking advice on several boards and my local HAM Radio club on how to properly secure the PCB and component for the soldering of the replacement STK4278-L ICs. I do not have experience or specialized soldering stations so I am reaching out to more experienced repair techs or kit builders for suggestions.

A full size version of the following picture is available: http://www.sutton.org/images/KP-61xbr38 IC Mount 1.jpg

Picture 7:

RIGHT Side of D Board STK4278-L mount description (showing IC supported by aluminum tray)

A full size version of the following picture is available: http://www.sutton.org/images/KP-61xbr38 IC Mount 2.jpg

Picture 8:

STK4278-L mount description (board lifted)

A full size version of the following picture is available: http://www.sutton.org/images/KP-61xbr38 IC Mount 3.jpg

Picture 9:

I probably spent the better part of the week waiting for the parts to arrive thinking about the best way to solder the NEW STK-4278-Ls onto the D Board. I contacted our local Loudoun County Amateur Radio Group for advice from experienced electronics tinkers/builders. Ultimately, I decided that I'd need to fabricate a jig to hold the new IC at the proper height for soldering. It is not mounted flush, there is a slight height difference in the shelf on the underlying aluminum tray ( see previous pictures).

A full size version of the following picture is available: http://www.sutton.org/images/SONY_KP61BXR38_D_board_woodjig1.jpg

So I scrounged up all the sheets of thin plyboard I've collected from many projects to use as stand-offs for the D Board itself and to form a base to support the new STK4278-Ls at the proper height for soldering. NOTE: I used the 1 inch firring strips to support the D Board to ensure there was no damage to the Ds Board which sticks up perpendicular from the D Board. (The Ds Board can be seen in picture X below.) The Ds Board did not want to come out easily from its socket so I thought it better to leave it undisturbed.

I had planned to use a ream of printer paper for micro adjustments to the height of the boards under the STK-4278-Ls, if needed. But these two boards fit the bill [height] exactly.

Picture 10:

A closer look at the ICs being supported by the plywood boards while test fitting the jig.

A full size version of the following picture is available: http://www.sutton.org/images/SONY_KP61BXR38_D_board_woodjig2.jpg

Picture 11:

This view shows the entire board being supported by the four 1 inch firring strips boards. This ensure no pressure was being placed on any of the components mounted on the underside... the D Board bottom is facing up in these pictures to facilitate desoldering and resoldering the new parts. I'll secure the boards and PCB with DUCT TAPE as shown in a later picture.

A full size version of the following picture is available: http://www.sutton.org/images/SONY_KP61BXR38_D_board_woodjig3.jpg

Picture 12:

OK, my plan is set. It's time to begin ... the die is cast ... no turning back. SNIP SNIP of the leads of the old ICs (STK4278-L). Notice the first two leads in this picture - they were cold soldered and loose so when snipped they fell flat against the PCB. That's the cause of my Convergence problems.

BTW, numerous sources and instructional videos recommended snipping the component leads first, then desoldering each lead as the preferred technique. It worked for me.

A full size version of the following picture is available: http://www.sutton.org/images/SONY_KP61BXR38_D_board_woodjig4.jpg

Picture 13:

The STK4278-L components are removed so the D Board is slipped over and secured for desoldering.

I didn't take a picture of the desoldering process while it was underway. I used a desoldering braid - fine copper stranded flat braid impregnated with flux - to remove the old solder from around each hole and pin . It worked amazing ly well, leaving clean holes in the PCB each time. No damage at all to the sturdy PCB.

A full size version of the following picture is available: http://www.sutton.org/images/SONY_KP61BXR38_D_board_woodjig5.jpg

Picture 14:

Here I've carefully threaded the STK4278-L leads back into the holes from the underside. I thought this might pose a tricky problem but it didn't really. I tilted the IC under the board and carefully, lightly jiggled the leads to find their way up through the holes. When both were in-place, I secured them with DUCT TAPE as show. This is to prevent movement while soldering.

A full size version of the following picture is available: http://www.sutton.org/images/SONY_KP61BXR38_D_board_woodjig6.jpg

Picture 14a:

I've tried to blow-up the part of the picture showing the IC pins sticking up through the D Board. It's a bit blurry but you can make out the fairly clean pads where the desoldering braid really did the trick.

Picture 15:

This is a bit blurry also but you can clearly see the empty black hole where the IC leads stick up from underneath.. Now it's time to solder these puppies.

A full size version of the following picture is available: http://www.sutton.org/images/SONY_KP61BXR38_D_board_woodjig7.jpg

Picture 16:

This soldering's complete and I've cleaned the board with Isopropyl Alcohol to remove flux and old thermal grease smears. I found a little squirt of GOOF OFF cleaner onto a rag bag T-shirt provided a quick clean of hard to remove thermal grease residue. I followed that by a quick clean with Isopropyl Alcohol.

Now it's time to apply the THERMAL GREASE and button everything up. I decided to use high performance thermal grease made for computer CPU applications called ARCTIC SILVER. It's the best rated thermal transfer grease made.

I searched the house but could not find any of my latex surgical gloves. I always have a supply around for car repairs or epoxy mixing. Oh well, I thought a single, thin wrap of SARAN Wrap would be strong and not allow any skin oils to get on the ICs while applying thermal grease. Wrong, one layer of Saran Wrap is not strong enough - tore right through and I realized it was my bare finger applying the thermal grease.

A full size version of the following picture is available: http://www.sutton.org/images/SONY_KP61BXR38_D_board_woodjig8.jpg

I reinstalled the D Board in its tray and reinstalled it into the SONY television. Fired it up ... manually adjusted the Red, Blue, Yellow lines on the COnvergence menu cross-hairs and a great picture was restored.

I quick play of an attached DVD player confirmed a great picture and none of the former ghosting.

Success !

To contact me, emails can be sent to jim DOT sutton AT gmail DOT com