June 5, 2008 2:27 PM

MOtvGuy said: Your problem is very similar to the issues that Toshiba has experienced with their HM66 models. A focusing mirror that's glued to a metal frame has come unglued due to the heat and has slipped down. Toshiba's fix for that was to replace the optical engine. They did not make the light tunnel available for those engines nor to my knowledge do they make individual parts available for the HM195 engines other than the color wheel. Toshiba's 42 and 44" DLP sets have previously been made by a different manufacturer (Chinese), this is the reason why there was a light tunnel fix available for that 44" model.

Ok, there is no light tunnel available. That being the case, is it possible to simply access the offending mirror and glue it back into place using a more durable adhesive? If so, where exactly within the light engine is the mirror in question located? In the thread that I mentioned in my original post, it indicated that the light tunnel/mirror assembly was situated between the light bulb and the color wheel. Is that the same case with the 62HM195? Thanks.

June 6, 2008 12:28 AM

Dwray said: I would not Try to repair the mirror You can make it worse then it is NOW or the Light Engine may not work at all IF you Make One MISTAKE ! You Could Really damge the engine For as Little as your picture is OFF I would JUST Adjust the Vertial Position in the Service menu to move the Black space off the Bottom of the screen

How do you access the service menu?

June 8, 2008 12:54 AM

MOtvGuy said: Getting into the service menu to adjust the verticle centering or size will do you no good. You have an optical problem where no light is capable of reaching that portion of the screen. The engines for the HM195 series are different than the HM66. I wouldn't have the slightest idea which focusing element is the one that has the problem nor do I have a good idea of how you could glue it back on. Those light tunnels get very hot inside which is the reason the glue failed in the first place.

That's kind of what I was thinking but I thought I would try the service menu just to eliminate the possibility. I'm not going to pay $50+ to explore that option though. I'll remove the light engine again later and dig through it some more. The way I see it is if I can't fix the light engine, I have to buy a new one, so I'm not really going to be out any more cash if I break this one while attempting repairs. Nothing ventured, nothing gained. It may be a couple of weeks before I can get back into it again. Thanks.

June 8, 2008 2:21 PM

Larry Dillon said: Contact Tri-State Module, or ptscorp.com, look them up on the web and get the telephone number and call them. I understand they rebuild and refurbish light engines for a reasonable cost so check out all the option before destroying the light engine

I sent an email to Tri-State Module. Their prices look to be pretty reasonable. I don't see my light engine model number listed so I'll have to wait and see if it is available or repairable. Thanks for the tip. This looks like it could be the best route of action to take.

June 22, 2008 9:28 PM

I received a reply from Tri-State Module about the light engine rebuild. The price they quoted for a rebuild of my unit was only $50 less than if I were to purchase another unit from an online store. I decided to dig into my unit and have another look. I removed, examined and cleaned the light tunnel. There is no way that a mirror could slip on this particular unit so I reinstalled it and attempted an adjustment using the provided adjustment screws. That didn't help. I went deeper into the light engine until I found the infamous prism. I was testing the integrity of the glue with some gentle pressure and managed to have it come completely unsecured, so it was time to purchase some good adhesive. I picked up some Loctite Repair Extreme at Wal-Mart. It's rated for a temperature spread of -58 degrees to 248 degrees Fahrenheit. I don't know what the maximum internal temperature is going reach inside of the light engine, but I don't think it is going to surpass the rating of the adhesive. I reattached the prism using the glue and let it set up for 5 or 6 hours before reassembling the light engine. I gave the color wheel, light tunnel, lenses, and prism a good cleaning before buttoning up the unit. After installing the light engine and starting up the television I had a very clear, focused and level picture. The image was off across the top of the screen, but even the entire way, so I shut it down and opened up the light tunnel section again. I powered the set up again and made an adjustment to the light tunnel to bring the picture to the top of the screen, then I closed up the entire set. Total repair costs: $3.62. Veni, vidi, vici!

June 22, 2008 11:54 PM

Larry Dillon said: nice pictures!

Thank you. I'd also like to thank everyone who contributed their thoughts about this problem. I'm very pleased with the way things have turned out. Here are some more photos for anyone who may be experiencing the same issue. It really isn't too much of a problem to correct.