Thanks for the great instructions! This is extremely helpful information. Just one follow up: I have determined that I need to replace the R8C37 and R8C38 resistors. Do you have a suggestion for the best place to purchase them? I'm a newbie so I apologize in advance if this is obvious to everyone else. By the way, the Mitsubishi Service Manual doesn't even list a part number for these. ???
Categories: Televisions and Projectors
I will first start out by saying, it is very important that you have some soldering experience working on solid state printed circuit boards and that you know that too much heat from the soldering iron will most likely ruin the pc (printed circuit) board. If this happens, it can be a very difficult repair. The boards are no longer available for these sets from Mitsubishi so I cannot stress enough, if you have no soldering experience, let a pro assist you in this repair. One more very important thing to remember and NOT DO!! If the convergence is way out or cannot be adjusted by the customer controls, do not go into the service menu and try to adjust the convergence. It will only make it very difficult for you to adjust the set after it has been repaired. The service menu adjustments are to make MINOR drifting alignments, as over time, the adjustments may drift a bit due to part tolerance changing. I am using the adobe reader eight (8). If the page numbers do not match up as I have explained, then you will need to upgrade to the newer version eight (8). The service manual Is available for a free download atNext, let’s get together the equipment you will need to work on this puppy. You will need a # 2 Phillips screwdriver to first remove the backboard in the rear of the TV set as described on page 10 of the service manual. Next, you will need a small soldering iron with a desoldering bulb to remove the solder on the pins of the IC’s. I recommend an inexpensive one from Radio Shack. It is a 45 watt type, item number 64-2060. You can see it here http://www.radioshack.com/sm-buy-the-45-watt-desoldering-iron-on-http-wwwradioshackcom--pi-2062731.html. Next, you will need a small amount of rosin core solder to re-solder back in the new convergence IC’s. You can get that at Radio Shack also. The item number is 64-017, and you can see that here http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062719&cp=&sr=1&origkw=rosin+core+solder&kw=rosin+core+solder&parentPage=search Next, you will need what’s called heat sink compound or thermal paste. The item number is number is 55014135 and can be seen here http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2526910&cp=&sr=1&origkw=thermal+paste&kw=thermal+paste&parentPage=search. You also might wish to pick up a small amount of solder braid to assist you in cleaning up the area around the un-soldered pins of the convergence IC after you remove it. It is very important to make sure you have no solder splashes or bits of solder lying around or across any of the adjacent circuits. Now we need to get ONE (1) STK393-110 convergence Amp IC’s. I recommend getting those from here http://www.electronic-repair-kits.com/STK393-110.html. The reason I recommend this distributor, I have ordered many of IC’s, a lot for a lot less money, but they are not original Sanyo IC’s. Yes, these IC’s in this Mitsubishi set is made by Sanyo. A lot of the less expensive IC’s are not original and the aftermarket types made in China. I have heard also that some parts distributors buy factory reject IC’s and sell them as good original IC’s. That being said, it is up to you if you want to be back into your set several months down the road because of another convergence problem. Play it safe, and stay original. . You will also need a small multimeter or DMM ( digital multimeter) and know how to use it. You can get the five (5) amp pico fuses if you need them from http://www.bluestar-online.com/5_AMP_PICO_p/5%20amp%20pico%20fuse.htm.
Next, is a very important step. MAKE SURE THE TV SET IS UNPLUGGED FROM THE WALL SOCKET!! This may seem a bit redundant, but I cannot count how many times I have seen technicians rush into a job and forget to unplug a set from the wall. Now let’s get into the set. First remove the back board by removing 20 or 21 screws from the backboard of this set. This is described on page 10 of the service manual. Next, remove the left and right speaker grill covers as well as the center part of the TV set in the front. These simply pull off so do not be afraid to pull on them a little, side to side till they come off. Now take off the front board by removing six (6) screws. This is all on page nine (9) of the service manual. Now, remove three (3) screws securing the entire chassis in the rear of the set as described on page 15 of the service manual. Next, unclip the two (2) chassis locks in the front of the TV set as the locks are shown on the front of the chassis on page 16 of the service manual. Now, slide the chassis out toward the rear of the unit and slide upwards to access the bottom of the printed circuit board.
Now, let’s look at page 16 towards the bottom of the page. There right in the middle of the power board, the board in the middle part of the chassis, notice the large metal block with fins on it. On that block, which is called a heat sink, is a line that says IC8C01 & IC8C02 conv. Outputs. That is a mistake in this service manual. There is only one (1) Conv. output IC in this set and it is marked IC8C01. Now you want to first locate the two (2) pico fuses on the main power supply board. As if one or more of these are not bad, your convergence IC is most likely not the problem with the set. This is not always the case, as maybe the IC opened up and not shorted, therefore blowing out the fuses. I have not seen this condition too many times though. The fuse are marked ON THE BOARD, as F9A04 and F9A05. They are located next to or near a large transformer labeled on the board as T9A50.They do not look like regular glass fuse but more like resistors. Measure for a short or full continuity across both of them. If one or both are bad, DO NOT simply replace them, the IC is bad, and replacing them will cause further power supply damage. Fuses do not blow in this set unless there is a problem. . My experience has been, if a fuse or two are bad, find out why it blew. These are 5 amp pico fuses. And can be ordered from the link that I have posted above. These pico fuses control the plus and the minus 24 volts to the convergence IC. Also be sure to check the resistance of several feedback resistors. They are labeled on the PC board as R8C05, R8C06, R8C13, R8C14, R8C21, R8C22, R8C29, R8C30, R8C37, R8C38, R8C45, and R8C46. These resistors are flameproof and are 3.9 ohm resistors@ two (2) watts. The other resistors in this convergence circuit that sometimes will burn up are labeled on the board as, R8C07, R8C15, R8C23, R8C31, R8C39, and R8C47. These resistors are also the flameproof type. The values of these resistors are 150 ohms @ three (3) watts. Also, if you have the plus and minus 24 volts on the power supply but not on the convergence IC pins numbers 10, 12, 13, 15, 16, and 18, check the two coils labels on the board as L8C01 and L8C02. If one or more of these cols are bad, replace C8C05, and C8C03. They are 1000uf@50 volts.Next thing you want to do is to carefully remove all of the solder on all of the pins on the convergence output IC. Make sure each pin is free to move around inside of the hole. Now, unscrew the two screws that attach the IC to the heat sink. Now remove the IC from the printed circuit board and the heat sink. Sometimes the silicone thermal paste dries up and you have to pry off the IC, but it will pop off. Next, do your best to scrap off any large amount or clumps of old thermal paste off of the heat sink. It does not have to be shiny clean though. Now, make sure all of the pins of the new IC are all lines up, and straight. It makes the re-install easier. Now, apply a liberal coating on the back side of the new IC, not too much as it will get all over the place. Just enough to coat the back side of the new IC. Now, insert the IC back into the board and making sure all of the IC pins go straight into the holes and do not bend, or short out against each other. Next, carefully solder each pin at a time on the board, watching and being careful not to short or bridge any solder on to the adjacent pins or circuit pads. Double, no triple check your soldering job. Clean up any excessive solder flux with a cue tip and alcohol. Reinstall the chassis and make sure that any plugs you disconnected are back into its proper connector and double check every plug and connector by hand, not by sight, for loose or shifted connections. Now, plug in the set and see if you did your job correctly. If the set will not come on, check the pico fuses again. If one or more are bad again, the IC is bad, or there is a short across one of the pins. If the set comes on, but the convergence is way out, you may have a bad feedback resistor or two. If you messed with the convergence before you replaced the IC, you may need a pro to assist you in making the final convergence adjustments. Good luck and be carefull!
"Those who do not know their opponent's arguments, do not completely understand their own".**For complete TV repair kits including parts goto www.TvRepairKits.com
Wow, great instructions, Larry.
You wrote, "Check the two coils labelled on the board as L8C01 amd L8C02. If one or more of these coils are bad, replace C8C05 and C8C03."
My question is how do you check a coil with a multimeter?
I have a mitsubishi tv model # ws 55909. It does not power on. The green power button just blinks on and off. I'd like to repair this myself. Can you direct me in any way? Thanks.
I have a model WS-55859, and fixed the non-stop, blinking green LED problem. There is a lot of information on the web about fixing it. Most likely, the blinking LED can be fixed by replacing capacitors on the DM board. I bought 7 capacitors on Digikey (manufacturer p/n UPW1C102MPD) for under $10, and replaced the ones on the board, and it was fixed. You might be able to fix your TV if it suffers for the same problem.
I do have a different and unrelated problem on the TV now that makes it unwatchable: red convergence is really screwed up. I ended up getting an LCD TV, but was hoping to sell the old TV. Nobody will probably want it.
Larry Dillon said: if you want to bring it to Michigan I will take it!you can have it. It's in my garage. Come and get it.
Eric, did you give up? I thought you wanted to fix it?
I have not given up. Some wise guy thinks I should shlep this tv to chicago and give it to him. I'm in denver and there is no way that's hapnin. I'm going to give this repair a shot, after the holliday season. I think it may take a little more bank that what I've been told. Again, the problem is that the green led light blinks constantly and the tv does not power on. the buttons on the tv do not do a thing. I have been told I'd have to change a "power sorce" thing, or something else. I have also been told that I should shell out the $300 and have a pro fix the thing. I'd like to save some cash but if i'm going to make it worse by fixing the wrong thing, what should I do?
If you are going to try something without knowing for sure that it will work, and NOT spent a lot of money, try replacing the capacitors on the DM board. There are a lot of people who saw the same blinking green light, and fixed it by replacing them, and posted online. (Chance that instead it's a fuse that burned out.)
I would recommend ordering the same capacitors that I did because they are available on Digikey, which is one of the most reputable companies. I put the part number above ($5 parts + $5 shipping). My TV model is WS-55859, which is different than yours, but the service manual seems to indicate that they have the same DM board. Before actually de-soldering the old capacitors, double-check the markings to make sure that the capacitance is the same as those of the new ones. I already had a soldering iron and solder, and had some soldering experience. Do you have the soldering iron and solder already? I think that the key is whether you have the time and really want to do the soldering. Of course, always follow the necessary precautions when working on the TV.
My set: Mitsubishi WS-55859
I had the same flashing green light of death. The repair for this is to replace the faulty capacitor on the daughter board within the DM module. It was recommended to replace all seven which I did.
I have never soldered on any type of circut board, so I unplugged the two plugs and removed the screws and took the board in and had them replaced, the bill was $20 and that included the seven capasitors.
Now I have green lines sweeping through my screen and I need to make this convergence IC repair. At least I know what is wrong and how to fix, I will however take your advice and find someone to do the IC replacement on the board for me.
I have since bought a 60
Larry Dillon said: did you get the right instructions for that model of set?. if not leave an e-mail address and I will send them to you.
I did not get the instructions. Do you have them? I under stand I should replace all 7 modules? How do I do this?
Larry Dillon said: if you want to bring it to Michigan I will take it!
Sorry to contact you this way I can not figure out how to just email you I am a new user.
I have a WS55513 and have fixed it in the past using the radio shack condensors and the direction on how to.
the tv has worked fine for over a year now. I naw have a problem with my HDTV Monolink device. I was viewing tv using a DVI cable from My ATT Uverse with a DVI to a HDMI connector so I could hok the DVI to and HDMI port. all was ok and all of a sudden the tv went to the blue sceen like it had no signal. I reset the tv and the box but no change I even tried the box an another tv and worked ok. the tv works ok by using the ant A signal and port. I am suspecting the DVI to HDMI connector but not sure. do you have any suggestions and or have you seen this before?
Thank you in advance for any help you can give me. my e-mail is email@example.com
I was given a WS-65909 for free and told the problem was the DM. I received the repair kit today and replaced all of the parts. The set went from the steady green flashing light to the light staying on for a second and then shutting of with a click sound both when the light comes on and then shuts off. It looks like I'm getting an error code 22 but am unsure if I really want to/have the skill to fix the IC chip. Is there another solution I can try before buying the kit for the IC fix or is a 22 code a guaranteed IC chip replacement? Thanks in advance for all your help!
I replaced the capacitors nad the IC chip. When I turn on the tv it makes a crackling kind of noise and it looks like the guns are firing all over the screen. It stays on for about 10 seconds then shuts off. No blinking green light. Any suggestions before I put it in the garbage? Thanks.
I have a WS-65909. error code 2-2. Replaced IC & pico fuses, checked resistors per larry instructions. All seems well. Turn on TV. Same error code 2-2? Checked fuses all are good. Please help!
I am new to this site and was wondering if i can get some help on how to solve the blinking green light. I have the same problem with my Mitsubishi TV model ws-65689 flashing green light all of a sudden. It wont turn on or respond to any button on the remote. I have read that i need to replace the capacitors on the DM board is that correct?? Does anybody have the instructions and what parts i need to have it fixed? My email is firstname.lastname@example.org. Any information would greatly appreciated. Thanks JOE
I need a Convergence kit for a VS463R. At least the RED line keeps moving around. I have heard you can try to simply resolder the Convergence IC's... but then one must assume you know where they are??
Any ideas on replacements ICs?
Thanks for this article! It's four years since the above convergence IC replacement instructions were posted, and they are still very helpful. After finding that the green vertical convergence went out on my Mits WS-55859, I found a number of web posts indicating that it likely needed to have the STK-393 convergence IC replaced. I ordered the part and followed the above instructions to check over the board components and replace the convergence IC.
In my case, none of the other components were bad. In fact, the F9A04 and F9A05 fuses on the board in my set were fitted by the manufacturer with bus wire, so no issue there. All of the resistors and caps checked out as well, and I didn't see any burned traces or cracked solder joints, so I was becoming a bit skeptical that just replacing the convergence IC would solve the problem. But after replacing it and reconnecting the board, the TV came up with the convergence issue fully resolved!
My Mits set is coming up on 10 years old. In addition to the convergence IC, I've also had to do the cap replacement for the Green Blinking Light issue. But this TV is still working, and still generates a great picture!