Larry Dillon said: If you are handy, and can solder, you may be able to save about 700 bucks if not more. There is a very common problem with these Mitsubishi TV sets. There is a digital board inside these puppies called the DM board. A lot of times there are four capacitors that go bad inside of these TV sets. Sometimes, depending on how bad the capacitors are, and if the capacitors did not blow out anything else on the Dm board, you can simply replace these four capacitors and this will fix your TV set. The average that this works on is about 65 to 70 % of the sets can be repaired with this fix. The others are power supply issues or the DM board has other issues. If you would like to attempt to repair your TV set, I will send you the instructions on how to do so. If you do not know how to solder well, do not attempt to replace the capacitors yourself. Pay a pro to do this for you. After all you are already saving a bundle of cash. Leave an e-mail address, and I will forward you the fix with and without the light engine. And if the capacitors inside the board are not swollen on the tops, as the direction shows you what they look like, change the capcitors anyway. I have had a few that looked good but the capacitors were on their way out. Good Luck
Hello Larry I am also new here. But am having the same problem as everybody else with my Mitsubishi tv. My model is the ws-65869 I would greatly appericate the plans to fix this. Thanks in advance. Chris
Larry- I have the green light issue with our 52" Mitsubishi WD-52628. Would you please send the instructions for diassembling the TV and replacing the caps to [email protected] Thank you very much, scottanddeb
I think Larry might have gotten fed up having to send this information out. I know I would have by now... answering 60 pages of requests. Would anybody who has already received the info be willing to share?
I used pictures from other peolpes replys and it worked great. I fixed my 65' in about 3 hours included going to radio shack. I used the 35 volts because they didn't have the 16 volts. Works great. Thanks to everybody here. Saved me $$$$$$$. Good Luck to everybody else. Chris
bbobo said: I think Larry might have gotten fed up having to send this information out. I know I would have by now... answering 60 pages of requests. Would anybody who has already received the info be willing to share? bob
On your DM (Digital Module) Check 4 Capacitors for swelling : C9B01, C9B02, C9B10, C9B11
Probably a great idea just to change them all to save problems down the road. These should
680 UFD 16V Hi Temp Caps. Hope this helps....I have been trying to run down this info all day.
B&D Enterprises is supposed to be a good source for these.
I am having the same problem as everyone else, the blinking green light. anyone have the instructions on how to fix...I have a WD62525...Any help would be great..Thks Ritch [email protected]
I also need the instructions to fix the blinking green light problem. Please, please, send me the fix instructions to replace the capacitors. Email is [email protected] --Thanks.
Please send the fix for the blinking green light to me for my Mitsubishi. The model is WD52825 and my email is [email protected] Thank you very much for your help!!!
WOW Larry! Sounds like you are the man! Yes, I another victom of the blinking green light (and right at football season. Could you send copy of the instructions? Thanks I would really appreciate it, my e-mail is [email protected].
I have a WS-65713 with the green blinking light problem. I previously repaired televisions as a part-time job, so I feel comfortable giving your repair a try. However, before I unsolder the DM module and remove it from the chassis, I would appreciate seeing your instructions. If you would, please send the to me at [email protected]
The DM module on the set I fixed was not soldered in, it pushed into the main board with a series of 3 or 4 terminals. That said, the terminals were a bear to get in correctly and I had to re-seat them several times to get it right.
Pls make sure that you seat the DM board WITHOUT the metal cage around it first, try the set and after you have confirmed that it works fine then install the metal cage onto the set. Its not easy to get to in some areas and working with the board while the metal cage is on makes it more difficult.
Larry,
Does this fix work on the bigger Mitsubishi television sets? Now that I have fixed one of them (and its still working) was thinking about finding one of the 73 inch versions for the living room and retiring the 56 inch model upstairs. If its the same type of repair then will give another one a try!
The 48" Mit television that I worked on with your help has been working great for over a month now so guess I need to lend a hand. How can I donate something for your support? Do you have a Pay Pal account or favorite charity?
Thank you very much for the quick reply! If I understand correctly, the DM module is the large vertically mounted unit on the left as you're facing the rear of the TV. It is enclosed by the metal (RF) shield. If that's correct, I wasn't entirely certain that I could remove the shield while the actual module was plugged (or soldered?) into the main chassis.
If, as you indicated, the DM module will slide or unplug from the main chassis, then I feel comfortable going back in and figuring out how to remove the DM module.
On the other hand, I was hoping the instructions from Larry would provide guidance on the removal of the module.
Like you, I am happy to compensate Larry - or someone else as appropriate - for the repair instructions. I thought that was a great gesture from you!
If your model is the same as the one I repaired, then your DM location is correct. You will need to unscrew the screws holding the main board to the television frame, then slice the main assy out a bit to gain access to the DM metal cover, then remove the screws and remove the whole DM board assy out. It does not slide but the metal contacts are inserted into 3-4 contacts on the main board.
Larry has the whole info sheet and will send it to you but it sounds like you are well on your way to removing the board and finding the problem. One thing to be careful about is that my capacitors did not appear to be bad (no bulging, overheating or such) but after being replaced the television set has worked fine for a month.
Be careful and unplug the set and ground everything you can find that you might touch. As well you may end up having to undo some of the wire bundles to slide the main chassis out of the set to gain access to the DM board.
I successfully removed the DM module and located the capacitors (9B01, 9B02, 9B10, 9B11), which do appear bulged. I will order replacements; however, should I get the exact values (i.e. 1000uF, 16V, 105 C), or does Larry recommend otherwise?
Larry directed me to a better replacement. Am on the road working off of a laptop and do not have the link right now, so better that you wait until he gets back on the forum to lend a hand with the right parts.
Thanks for the feedback. I'll stand by for Larry's advice. It seems there are several models with the same fault. But it may not be wise to assume any variation from the factory installed capacitors applies equally to all models!
Hi, looks like I am one of many who has the blinking green light issue. Would you please email me the the manual for WS-65813 or the url where I can find it? Thanks in advance! [email protected]
I replaced the four capacitors but unfortunately it didn't work afterwards. The blinking green light was still blinking. So rather than spend $800 to get it repaired we opted to spend the repair money on a new Sony LCD 52" We ordered the KDL52W4100 from Abe's of Maine last night. Nice people to deal with and got a super deal on the set and five year warranty and they threw in the upgraded shipping and screen cleaning kit. I'm going to dismantle the Mitsubishi this weekend, sell the lamp out of it since I just replaced it two months ago and trash the rest of it. That was the biggest waste of $5K. Sent Mitsubishi an email and told them I would never buy one of their products again and would advise every body I know not to either. Like they care. I'm sure they have plenty of other customers.
I just wanted to let you know that I replaced the capacitors on the DM module and it repaired the TV. I think it is important to note to folks considering this repair action that the capacitors should be closely inspected for visible defects. For example, when capacitors fail they often show signs like "bulging", or the plastic covering around the capacitor may be "pulled back" away from the top.
In my case the capacitors were bulging on their tops. That is to say, the tops were not flat; they were slightly raised - kind of like the old the aluminum foil on the old Jiffy Pop popcorn! :-)
I'm speculating, but if there are no noticeable defects, the probability of them being the problem reduced. Therefore, you may want to consider other options.
One such option seems to be contacting Mitsubishi at [email protected] and describing the problem. I did this in addition to replacing the capacitors. It took a few days before I received a reply, but they did. I actually asked them to call me back tomorrow, so I would have time to replace the parts! I imagine they'll be happy to tell me that I voided any warranty. That's okay.
Another point I would like to make is the following. When one replaces the DM module, one should remove the PC board inside the metal case and install it. Afterward, slide the metal case over the PC board and secure it to the chassis. Using this method, it was almost trivial to re-install the DM module.
Finally, I'd like to thank Joe for his help and encouragement! Overal, the job was pretty easy.
Chances said: All, I just wanted to let you know that I replaced the capacitors on the DM module and it repaired the TV. I think it is important to note to folks considering this repair action that the capacitors should be closely inspected for visible defects. For example, when capacitors fail they often show signs like "bulging", or the plastic covering around the capacitor may be "pulled back" away from the top. In my case the capacitors were bulging on their tops. That is to say, the tops were not flat; they were slightly raised - kind of like the old the aluminum foil on the old Jiffy Pop popcorn! :-) I'm speculating, but if there are no noticeable defects, the probability of them being the problem reduced. Therefore, you may want to consider other options. One such option seems to be contacting Mitsubishi at [email protected] and describing the problem. I did this in addition to replacing the capacitors. It took a few days before I received a reply, but they did. I actually asked them to call me back tomorrow, so I would have time to replace the parts! I imagine they'll be happy to tell me that I voided any warranty. That's okay. Another point I would like to make is the following. When one replaces the DM module, one should remove the PC board inside the metal case and install it. Afterward, slide the metal case over the PC board and secure it to the chassis. Using this method, it was almost trivial to re-install the DM module. Finally, I'd like to thank Joe for his help and encouragement! Overal, the job was pretty easy. Thank you! Sam
Having been in this business for 30 years I can promise you that not ALL capacitors are nice enough to signal their failure by raising their tops or turning black or shooting their contents all over the PCB. Normally, they just dry out. That is what brings on their failure (electrolytic type). Around 2004 there was a really large batch of defective CAP's that went into a ton of equipment. I changed out every 4.7 UFD electrolytic I came across during that period. Unless you have a good Oscillisope or a dedicated CAP tester it is pretty hard to tell a good cap from a defective one. Switching out suspects is far faster.
Chances said: All, I just wanted to let you know that I replaced the capacitors on the DM module and it repaired the TV. I think it is important to note to folks considering this repair action that the capacitors should be closely inspected for visible defects. For example, when capacitors fail they often show signs like "bulging", or the plastic covering around the capacitor may be "pulled back" away from the top. In my case the capacitors were bulging on their tops. That is to say, the tops were not flat; they were slightly raised - kind of like the old the aluminum foil on the old Jiffy Pop popcorn! :-) I'm speculating, but if there are no noticeable defects, the probability of them being the problem reduced. Therefore, you may want to consider other options. One such option seems to be contacting Mitsubishi at [email protected] and describing the problem. I did this in addition to replacing the capacitors. It took a few days before I received a reply, but they did. I actually asked them to call me back tomorrow, so I would have time to replace the parts! I imagine they'll be happy to tell me that I voided any warranty. That's okay. Another point I would like to make is the following. When one replaces the DM module, one should remove the PC board inside the metal case and install it. Afterward, slide the metal case over the PC board and secure it to the chassis. Using this method, it was almost trivial to re-install the DM module. Finally, I'd like to thank Joe for his help and encouragement! Overal, the job was pretty easy. Thank you! Sam
Having been in this business for 30 years I can promise you that not ALL capacitors are nice enough to signal their failure by raising their tops or turning black or shooting their contents all over the PCB. Normally, they just dry out. That is what brings on their failure (electrolytic type). Around 2004 there was a really large batch of defective CAP's that went into a ton of equipment. I changed out every 4.7 UFD electrolytic I came across during that period. Unless you have a good Oscillisope or a dedicated CAP tester it is pretty hard to tell a good cap from a defective one. Switching out suspects is far faster.
Roger your last! Those are great points. I suppose if the audience on this thread consists primarily of electronic technicians, then your point is even more apt. If, on the other hand, it consists mostly of enthusiastic "do-it-yourself" folks, they may be wise to carefully consider all options. Admittedly, I was an Navy electronics repair technician and also repaired TVs/VCRs for about 5 years on my own time, so the actual repair job was relatively simple. Maybe I'm being too cautious though. Thank you for raising those points though!
Hello Larry I am also new here. But am having the same problem as everybody else with my Mitsubishi tv. My model is the ws-65869 I would greatly appericate the plans to fix this. Thanks in advance. Chris
Larry- I have the green light issue with our 52" Mitsubishi WD-52628. Would you please send the instructions for diassembling the TV and replacing the caps to [email protected] Thank you very much, scottanddeb
I think Larry might have gotten fed up having to send this information out. I know I would have by now... answering 60 pages of requests. Would anybody who has already received the info be willing to share?
bob
Larry,
I too have suffered from the Blinking green light problem. I have a WS-65513 model. If you could send me the instructions I would sure appreciate it.
[email protected]
Daniel
I used pictures from other peolpes replys and it worked great. I fixed my 65' in about 3 hours included going to radio shack. I used the 35 volts because they didn't have the 16 volts. Works great. Thanks to everybody here. Saved me $$$$$$$. Good Luck to everybody else. Chris
On your DM (Digital Module) Check 4 Capacitors for swelling : C9B01, C9B02, C9B10, C9B11
Probably a great idea just to change them all to save problems down the road. These should
680 UFD 16V Hi Temp Caps. Hope this helps....I have been trying to run down this info all day.
B&D Enterprises is supposed to be a good source for these.
Thank you!
bob
I am having the same problem as everyone else, the blinking green light. anyone have the instructions on how to fix...I have a WD62525...Any help would be great..Thks Ritch [email protected]
I also need the instructions to fix the blinking green light problem. Please, please, send me the fix instructions to replace the capacitors. Email is [email protected] --Thanks.
Hi,
Same problem, can you please send the instructions.
Also, if I don't want to try the repair, is there somewhere I can mail the board to get it fixed?
Thanks,
Ken
PS.
The TV is a Mistubishi W65513 with the green light blinking and no power, and my email is:
[email protected]
thanks
Please send me fix-it instructions with a diagram of DM board and where compacitors are located.
Thank you.
Larry,
Please send the fix for the blinking green light to me for my Mitsubishi. The model is WD52825 and my email is [email protected] Thank you very much for your help!!!
Gary
WOW Larry! Sounds like you are the man! Yes, I another victom of the blinking green light (and right at football season. Could you send copy of the instructions? Thanks I would really appreciate it, my e-mail is [email protected].
Larry,
I have a WS-65713 with the green blinking light problem. I previously repaired televisions as a part-time job, so I feel comfortable giving your repair a try. However, before I unsolder the DM module and remove it from the chassis, I would appreciate seeing your instructions. If you would, please send the to me at [email protected]
Thank you!
Sam
Sam,
The DM module on the set I fixed was not soldered in, it pushed into the main board with a series of 3 or 4 terminals. That said, the terminals were a bear to get in correctly and I had to re-seat them several times to get it right.
Pls make sure that you seat the DM board WITHOUT the metal cage around it first, try the set and after you have confirmed that it works fine then install the metal cage onto the set. Its not easy to get to in some areas and working with the board while the metal cage is on makes it more difficult.
Larry,
Does this fix work on the bigger Mitsubishi television sets? Now that I have fixed one of them (and its still working) was thinking about finding one of the 73 inch versions for the living room and retiring the 56 inch model upstairs. If its the same type of repair then will give another one a try!
The 48" Mit television that I worked on with your help has been working great for over a month now so guess I need to lend a hand. How can I donate something for your support? Do you have a Pay Pal account or favorite charity?
Thx,
Joe A
Joe,
Thank you very much for the quick reply! If I understand correctly, the DM module is the large vertically mounted unit on the left as you're facing the rear of the TV. It is enclosed by the metal (RF) shield. If that's correct, I wasn't entirely certain that I could remove the shield while the actual module was plugged (or soldered?) into the main chassis.
If, as you indicated, the DM module will slide or unplug from the main chassis, then I feel comfortable going back in and figuring out how to remove the DM module.
On the other hand, I was hoping the instructions from Larry would provide guidance on the removal of the module.
Like you, I am happy to compensate Larry - or someone else as appropriate - for the repair instructions. I thought that was a great gesture from you!
Thank you!
Sam
Sam,
If your model is the same as the one I repaired, then your DM location is correct. You will need to unscrew the screws holding the main board to the television frame, then slice the main assy out a bit to gain access to the DM metal cover, then remove the screws and remove the whole DM board assy out. It does not slide but the metal contacts are inserted into 3-4 contacts on the main board.
Larry has the whole info sheet and will send it to you but it sounds like you are well on your way to removing the board and finding the problem. One thing to be careful about is that my capacitors did not appear to be bad (no bulging, overheating or such) but after being replaced the television set has worked fine for a month.
Be careful and unplug the set and ground everything you can find that you might touch. As well you may end up having to undo some of the wire bundles to slide the main chassis out of the set to gain access to the DM board.
Joe
Joe,
I'll give it a try and let you know how it goes. Thanks again for your help!
Sam
Larry,
I have a ws-65813 and having the same green light blinking problem. Can you email me the guide/manual to [email protected]. Thanks for your time.
Joe,
I successfully removed the DM module and located the capacitors (9B01, 9B02, 9B10, 9B11), which do appear bulged. I will order replacements; however, should I get the exact values (i.e. 1000uF, 16V, 105 C), or does Larry recommend otherwise?
Thank you!
Sam
Sam,
Larry directed me to a better replacement. Am on the road working off of a laptop and do not have the link right now, so better that you wait until he gets back on the forum to lend a hand with the right parts.
Joe
Joe,
Thanks for the feedback. I'll stand by for Larry's advice. It seems there are several models with the same fault. But it may not be wise to assume any variation from the factory installed capacitors applies equally to all models!
Thanks again!
Sam
Larry, same problem. Can you email me a set of repair instructions for the ws 65513?
Thanks a million (or about $1k (!!))
Ed
Hi, looks like I am one of many who has the blinking green light issue. Would you please email me the the manual for WS-65813 or the url where I can find it? Thanks in advance! [email protected]
Larry, I have the same issue with my WS-65513. Can you please send me the information?
I replaced the four capacitors but unfortunately it didn't work afterwards. The blinking green light was still blinking. So rather than spend $800 to get it repaired we opted to spend the repair money on a new Sony LCD 52" We ordered the KDL52W4100 from Abe's of Maine last night. Nice people to deal with and got a super deal on the set and five year warranty and they threw in the upgraded shipping and screen cleaning kit. I'm going to dismantle the Mitsubishi this weekend, sell the lamp out of it since I just replaced it two months ago and trash the rest of it. That was the biggest waste of $5K. Sent Mitsubishi an email and told them I would never buy one of their products again and would advise every body I know not to either. Like they care. I'm sure they have plenty of other customers.
All,
I just wanted to let you know that I replaced the capacitors on the DM module and it repaired the TV. I think it is important to note to folks considering this repair action that the capacitors should be closely inspected for visible defects. For example, when capacitors fail they often show signs like "bulging", or the plastic covering around the capacitor may be "pulled back" away from the top.
In my case the capacitors were bulging on their tops. That is to say, the tops were not flat; they were slightly raised - kind of like the old the aluminum foil on the old Jiffy Pop popcorn! :-)
I'm speculating, but if there are no noticeable defects, the probability of them being the problem reduced. Therefore, you may want to consider other options.
One such option seems to be contacting Mitsubishi at [email protected] and describing the problem. I did this in addition to replacing the capacitors. It took a few days before I received a reply, but they did. I actually asked them to call me back tomorrow, so I would have time to replace the parts! I imagine they'll be happy to tell me that I voided any warranty. That's okay.
Another point I would like to make is the following. When one replaces the DM module, one should remove the PC board inside the metal case and install it. Afterward, slide the metal case over the PC board and secure it to the chassis. Using this method, it was almost trivial to re-install the DM module.
Finally, I'd like to thank Joe for his help and encouragement! Overal, the job was pretty easy.
Thank you!
Sam
Having been in this business for 30 years I can promise you that not ALL capacitors are nice enough to signal their failure by raising their tops or turning black or shooting their contents all over the PCB. Normally, they just dry out. That is what brings on their failure (electrolytic type). Around 2004 there was a really large batch of defective CAP's that went into a ton of equipment. I changed out every 4.7 UFD electrolytic I came across during that period. Unless you have a good Oscillisope or a dedicated CAP tester it is pretty hard to tell a good cap from a defective one. Switching out suspects is far faster.
Roger your last! Those are great points. I suppose if the audience on this thread consists primarily of electronic technicians, then your point is even more apt. If, on the other hand, it consists mostly of enthusiastic "do-it-yourself" folks, they may be wise to carefully consider all options. Admittedly, I was an Navy electronics repair technician and also repaired TVs/VCRs for about 5 years on my own time, so the actual repair job was relatively simple. Maybe I'm being too cautious though. Thank you for raising those points though!
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