Sony KP-46WT500 Convergence Repair

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Brian17
Brian17's picture
Sony KP-46WT500 Convergence Repair

I have been doing a lot of research on how to fix the convergence issue with my TV.  It's a Sony KP-46WT500.  I noticed on these boards and from the boards at FixYa that I need to get 2 Sanyo STK-392-560 IC's.  I am going to order these from mcminone.com.

I noticed that it's also recommended to have the service manual for this repair.  I am wondering if anyone has the manual that they can send to me.  Larry, I'm hoping you may have one.

If so, my email address is jets5150 and that's @aol.com (spam filter).

I've found the suggestions and information on fixing this problem very useful so far.  Thanks for your help!

Larry Dillon
Larry Dillon's picture
Smart man! Yes do get the

Smart man! Yes do get the right IC's for the job.  Also do not forget to install a new coating of heat sink compound on the back of the NEW IC's before you install them onto the printed circuit board.  You also may find out that after you replace these two IC's, the set has no big difference from what it looked like before.  DO NOT DISPAIR!  There are probably open feedback or return resistors or Circuit Protectors around the convergence ICs.  Take a multimeter and measure the plus and the minus 22volts DC on both IC's. The manual will show you where these points are.  Yes I will send you the service manual for this TV set, but you will need to go to pando.com and download the free software to open the manual. My e-mail provider, and possibly yours as well, will net allow me to send larger files via e-mail.  Good Luck with this repair and please let us know how the  repair works out for you.

Brian17
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Larry, I received the service

Larry, I received the service manual from you, thank you very very much!  I will keep you posted as to my progress.

Brian 

Larry Dillon
Larry Dillon's picture
Cool!

Cool! Cool

Brian17
Brian17's picture
Larry, I've got another

Larry, I've got another question...  can you tell me what tools I'll need for this job?  What kind of irons and so forth will I need?  Should I use a certain iron for a certain part of the job?

I have soldered before, just not a lot, so I appreciate your help!

Brian17
Brian17's picture
Hi Larry, would you be able

Hi Larry, would you be able to tell me what tools I should use for this job?  Thanks again.

Larry Dillon
Larry Dillon's picture
You need a low wattage

You need a low wattage soldering iron, and you can go to mcmelectronics.com and find one for less the 20 bucks. Then you will need some rosin core solder, some solder wick, and a few good hand tools.

Brian17
Brian17's picture
Larry, I received the IC's

Larry, I received the IC's today and so I started taking apart the TV to see what I'm up against.  I took a picture of the D Board, and one of the IC's, which you can see below.  My question is what is the best way to work on them?  I believe I can slide the whole chassis out, but it still seems to be a bit tight to solder those pins with capacitors right next to them.  What do you recommend?

Sony KP-46WT500 D Board

STK392-560

Larry Dillon
Larry Dillon's picture
It is very easy to unstrap

It is very easy to unstrap the wires going to the chassis and simply turn over the chassis and unsolder the connections., BUT I highly recommend, if you have had no or very little experience unfaltering or soldering on a printed circuit board, this is NOT the place to be experimenting with this. Please call someone who has the experience. Good Luck.

Brian17
Brian17's picture
Well, I'm happy to say that

Well, I'm happy to say that the soldering went well.  Both IC's were replaced without any issues.  However, when I turned on the TV, there was no change from before, the convergence is still off, and there's even a little more distortion in the picture than before.  I believe you mentioned this could happen.

What should I do now?  Even if I test voltage, I really don't know what to do next.  I've made it this far, I really can't turn back now.  I appreciate any help you can give!

Larry Dillon
Larry Dillon's picture
You will have to make sure

You will have to make sure the plus and minus voltages are there on each IC. you will need to get a multimeter. Also double check the soldier connections and make sure you do not have any solder bridges across any connections.

Pokester
Pokester's picture
Almost done putting my

Almost done putting my KP53HS30 back together after reading your forums and following along.

Thanks for treating us "noobs" with a little respect...  You're doing a lot of good for a lot of people as this is a pretty expensive repair...  So, thanks!  It's definitely appreciated....

(BTW - AAS in computer/TV 20 years ago, so probably wouldn't have figured this out without your help!  LOL - remote controls were considered new around here back then!!!)

But, I had the same problem...  it looked worse than it did before the chip replacement... But - my voltages looked close and wasn't getting any error codes on the autofocus, and chips were running cool enough to keep my finger on...  so proceeded to converging the set.

Hope I didn't do wrong... but picture looks good!

Thanks!
Poke

Brian17
Brian17's picture
Pokester said: my voltages

Pokester said: my voltages looked close and wasn't getting any error codes on the autofocus, and chips were running cool enough to keep my finger on...  so proceeded to converging the set.

Hi Pokester, thanks for your post.  I'm curious to know what you did when you said you "proceeeded to converging the set."   After testing my board and things check out ok, what do I do next?

Also, thank you Larry, I did get a multimeter.  I still need to test the voltages.  Also, I did double-check the solder job and everything looks good!

I'm sorry I have to ask this, but I could use some help in knowing exactly which pins to test for voltage on the IC's.  I've attached a pic of the schematic for these parts.  My guess would be pins 4 and 5.  Thanks in advance for your help, this means a lot to a noob like me!

Larry Dillon
Larry Dillon's picture
check those circuit

check those circuit protectors shaded in grey. Check all of those 4.7 oh, resistors. Ch ck the voltage on the red lines. Those are your plus and minus voltage coming from your power supply, and make sure you have the voltage on both resistors on the red line on the right hand side of the page, where the red line breaks to resistors and continues on the other side.

Pokester
Pokester's picture
Larry - can't thank you

Larry - can't thank you enough.  After I finished converging and tweaking the settings it looks like a brand-new TV.   Thanks for your time and expertise... You're practically a god!  heh heh

And to think...  a week ago I was dreading hauling it to the dump and starting the search for a new TV.

Brian - good luck with your repair!

Thanks!
Poke

Brian17
Brian17's picture
Larry, I'm having trouble

Larry, I'm having trouble getting a reading on the resistors...  R8122 and R8127 according to the manual are 7.5 ohm resistors.  I am testing them with no power connected, and by touching the probes at both ends of the resistor and I cannot get a good reading on them.  If I can't test them properly, I won't know where the problem lies...

Could there be something wrong with the way I am testing them?

Also, what is the proper way to test for voltage?

Thank you!

Pokester
Pokester's picture
Brian - sorry to bring this

Brian - sorry to bring this back public..... but, this is so others that want to attempt this repair can see my warning.

I appreciate your wanting to fix this yourself...  But, I'm not the average DIY'er... I have 30 years of electronics experience... and actually went to college to learn TV and computer repair...

Please...  do not continue..... Televisions have dangerous voltages and currents and surprise "live" areas that will knock you dead.  You are literally dealing with death, fire & destruction here... and the questions you're asking are clear indication that you shouldn't be in there.

Maybe you could talk to a few local trade schools and colleges and see if they have a TV program that will fix your TV for the cost of parts... the school I went to still does this (although you may be without your TV for weeks to months).  If not, see if the local repair shops will take it in trade for something they've already repaired... (You may get less TV, but you'll be alive to enjoy it).

No TV is worth dying over... and guy...  not knowing what you're doing in there...  you're taking a HUGE risk.

If you were local, I'd be over to help in a minute...  'cause that's the kinda guy I am...  but, I can't help you from this distance...
Poke

Brian17
Brian17's picture
Pokester,

Pokester,

Thank you for the warning and interest in my safety.  When I was warned before about this not being for beginners, I thought the danger lied in doing permanent damage to the TV, not myself!  So, I'll be taking your advice, and seeking help from a real TV technician to handle this.

Thanks again,

Brian 

Pokester
Pokester's picture
Thanks for understanding...

Thanks for understanding... and do check into the colleges... these kids are learning the ropes and have someone standing over them, supervising the repairs.  It's a great learning opportunity for them and a super-cheap repair for you!

Poke

spock
spock's picture
larry,

larry,

Could you send me the service manual?  I have a sony kp46wt500 with the same problem.  When the unit is cold it's fine, but when the unit get warm the problem exist.

Thanks in advance.

Carlos

Larry Dillon
Larry Dillon's picture
spook, you do not need a

spook, you do not need a manual for this. Simply resolder the IC's and you should fix your problem. This happens a lot in these sets but a lot of techs cannot make any money by re soldering so they replace the IC's they took out of another set most of the time. Good Luck

cranemanjr
cranemanjr's picture
Larry Dillon said: spook, you

Larry Dillon said: spook, you do not need a manual for this. Simply resolder the IC's and you should fix your problem. This happens a lot in these sets but a lot of techs cannot make any money by re soldering so they replace the IC's they took out of another set most of the time. Good Luck

Larry,

New here.  I just wanted to thanks for your posts.  My brother has the same unit with the same problem.  He went out and bought a new LCD and gave me the broken unit.  He told me I could have it, but it would cost a lot to fix.  I have fixed my other Sony tube TV based unit on a post that was on another site.  Cold solder joints issue.  You are helping more people than you realize.  I am sure that 90% of the people you help never post.  This is my first.

 Thanks,

Robert

Larry Dillon
Larry Dillon's picture
Well thank you very much. It

Well thank you very much. It is always good to know when you helped someone. Those who do not write back to thank us or to let us know what happens must be too busy or maybe they think it is owed to them or something. Some just do not care.

cranemanjr
cranemanjr's picture
Larry Dillon said: Well thank

Larry Dillon said: Well thank you very much. It is always good to know when you helped someone. Those who do not write back to thank us or to let us know what happens must be too busy or maybe they think it is owed to them or something. Some just do not care.

Larry,

I was wondering if you could send me the service manual for the KP-46WT500 when you have a chance.  Thanks a lot for your help on the behalf of all us DIY'rs.

 Robert - j.r at kundel.com

cranemanjr
cranemanjr's picture
Larry,

Larry,

 I have orderd the new IC's and they should be in this week.  Last night I re-soldered the pins on the IC's just in case of cold spots, but no change.  I am going to install the new IC's this weekend.  Can you possibly send the manual for the KP-46WT500 to j.r@kundel.com?  I did download the pando software like you suggested and I should be ready to watch the game this weekend.

 Thanks,

Robert

Bruce 76
Bruce 76's picture
Larry,

Larry,

Like Robert, I too have ordered the ICs and they should be here tomorrow.  My hat is off to Brian for giving it a good go.  I've been hit with a TV anode voltage with the TV off and it hurts and sometimes shuts down essential body functions.  The TV tube is quite a capacitor.... 

I really expected to just replace the IC's, but after this really nice thread, I'm starting to wonder about the Sony designers creating a design that takes out half the board when a component fails.  I always thought they were a step above the rest....

Larry, could you please send me the manual for a KP-53HS30?  Also, could you explain what Poke means when he says he converged the set and everything looks great - is he converging the CRT tabs or the voltage pots in the front????

Thanks - you're the best and you are helping more people than I'm sure you know as Robert has indicated (my first too)

 Bruce

Bruce 76
Bruce 76's picture
Looking at a similar thread,

Looking at a similar thread, I need to supply you my email address for the manual - bruce@ftcnet.net.  I have done the Pando thing.

Thanks - Bruce

Pokester
Pokester's picture
Hey Bruce...

Hey Bruce...

I had an older version of the manual that said to init the nvram by using 7-enter in the PJE mode... DO NOT DO THIS unless the convergence is still way off!!!   I didn't see the corrections until after I'd already done it.

If, after replacing the chips, your convergence is still way off and you're sure your fuses are good and all your solder joints are good... then the process is explained starting like page 25 or 29.... 

And yes... I hated discouraging Brian... because I am SO thankful for Larry as he's saving so many of us LOTS of money...   but, I seriously feared for his safety as he was asking how to use a MM.

And yeah... heh heh... the HV stuff is a serious bummer if you screw up & heart/breathing stop while you're working alone! 

Bruce 76
Bruce 76's picture
Ok - thanks Poke.  I realized

Ok - thanks Poke.  I realized that some of the other models may not have the "flash focus" feature on my KP-53HS30.  I am assuming that Sony found a way to auto converge, but without the manual, I'm only guessing...

I took a look at the resistors below the heatsink and they all look good.  I'm not sure where to find the pico fuses, as I haven't received my parts yet (any time today...) and I haven't removed the board yet...

Thanks for staying in touch.

 Bruce

Pokester
Pokester's picture
I asked for 5 and 3.125 amp

I asked for 5 and 3.125 amp fast blow picofuses at a local TV shop and electronics supply...  I'm hoping this was right as the peeps at sony were no help.... and couldn't tell if their # was for the 5 or 3.125 size...

The fuses are under the heatsinks and on my tv, they were yellow and packaged like resistors.  I replaced 2-3 of the 3.125 on that board and one 5 amp blown on the power supply board...

Yeah - if your convergence looks close,  you should be able to use the flash focus in service mode...

If it works, the flashfocus completes and returns to prev. screen.  Then you can write the new offset data using <muting> <enter> (explained in the manual).  [Make sure you turn off bright lights and flip the cover back up to darken the set before you do this or you'll get a false code]

If it err's, it will return Sx [errcode] where x is the sensor and [errcode] refers to possible solution given in a tablein  the manual....

Bruce 76
Bruce 76's picture
Hey Poke - thank you for the

Hey Poke - thank you for the info.  My flash focus is a button on the mini front panel, and all you do is push it and it does a quick special display of crosses (and in the process does it's own convergence...)  I don't know about a service mode or codes because I've never come across this in my quick debugging of this problem, which all started about a week ago while I was watching the set and all of a sudden the red on the left side of the screen jumped over to the left and went a little non-linear.  Hopefully Larry will pick up this thread and send me a manual - which is really cool of him to do for others.

 Thanks again Poke!

Bruce 76
Bruce 76's picture
The UPS guy just dropped off

The UPS guy just dropped off my order from BD Enterprises with the STKs, heat sink grease and some wick.  I guess I'll replace the chips, check for any blown fuses I can find, check for fried resistors and fire it up.  I hope I won't blow the chips if I missed something, I assume it simply won't converge until I get it all...

Pokester
Pokester's picture
Good luck!   Let me know how

Good luck!   Let me know how it goes!

Poke 

Larry Dillon
Larry Dillon's picture
Auto-convergence is nothing

Auto-convergence is nothing more then a preset convergence that is stored in an electronic memory and when you press the flash focus button, it calls up for this memory and inputs it or loads the preset settings into the electronic convergence circuit the same way that the service mode does it.  It should explain in the service manual how to set up the auto convergence. If you do not change the entire board, and only change the chips, the auto convergence should be ok. If you do however change out the entire board, the eeprom IC on the convergence board should be swapped out also.  Oh And BTW, I did send that manual to you my freind. I sent it to  bruce@ftcnet.net

Bruce 76
Bruce 76's picture
Thank you Larry for the

Thank you Larry for the information above - it's good to know as I proceed.  I haven't seen the email yet (address looks good) and I did a test email with Pando which worked.  Could be lost in ether?

I'm only changing the STKs for now, so I'll keep the eeprom as is.  Thanks again!

Pokester
Pokester's picture
Bruce - the latest pando

Bruce - the latest pando seems to have issues for those of us who don't turn our computer off every day... so, try turning your computer off/on if you haven't since you installed...

A friend had the same issues, but when he rebooted he found all 5 things I sent him in the recieved tab....

Bruce 76
Bruce 76's picture
Hey thanks Poke - I rebooted

Hey thanks Poke - I rebooted but nothing so far.  My test sent me an email, which I figure really should start the process --

BUT - SUCCESS!!!!  I put in the ICs and one bad pico fuse - hit "Flash Focus" and COOL!!!

Thanks so much to Larry and Poke!  I would like to say some more about the process that I think all will be interested in - but right now - I'm headed for a BEER and a MOVIE!!

 Will update soon!

 Bruce

Larry Dillon
Larry Dillon's picture
Where did you buy the IC's

Where did you buy the IC's from? Do the new IC's have Sanyo written on them?, And did you use heat sink compound on the back of the new IC's?

Bruce 76
Bruce 76's picture
Hi Larry,

Hi Larry,

I bought the ICs from B&D Enterprises - and although the invoice says "Sanyo" the chips don't - which was concern to me after reading your comments....  I did use heat sink compound (ZnO Silicone).

I learned a few things I'd like to pass on.  First, I can't imagine doing this repair with it still in the TV as another website indicated (wire the board up and R&R the parts).  I started taking off the heatsinks, and with the heat required to wick the solder, I asked myself why I was taking them off in the first place.  So I left them on and simply took out the ICs.  I then checked for any blown pico fuses and found PS8001 open.  So it was 4:45 on Friday afternoon when I started frantically calling a TV shop to see if I could get one (I live in the Sierras and the closest resemblance of a town is over 30 min away....)  The guy said he had a 3A, not a 3.15A.  He said he replaces them all the time and they are more of a failure device than actually working close to their rating.  Since it was a lower value I decided to use it - we'll see...  He also said that he just looks at the board for burned resistors, if none, checks the pico fuses and if one is blown he checks the impedance of the IC where the fuse is connected.  If "OK", he just replaces the fuse, which he says are very delicate and can just break on their own.  This would save a lot of work if that's all it is....

The only "yikes!" I had doing this job is taking off the red wires from the HV xformer.  The secondary that goes to the other set of coils was kind of tough to push and twist 90 deg.  But the real problem was the other red wire going to the front panel pot panel..   I kept pulling/twisting/swearing until it just came out and looked like I had just pulled the wire out without a connector.  During reassembly, I just pushed back in.  Larry - what's the right way to take this wire out???

Larry - thanks again for your insight and everyone who has contributed to this thread.  I was very proud of myself, I must say, for doing it without a manual.

Along that thougt, I still haven't received an email with the manual.  Not to bug you, but am I doing something wrong??

Until later guys!

cranemanjr
cranemanjr's picture
Larry,

Larry,

 First of all thanks for the manual.  I installed the new IC's and the image looks the same.  I am not able to modify the G,R, or B settings in the service mode.  For example in the GRN CENT nothing happens when I change the values and it won't record them obviously.  I can modify other settings, but not these.  I am getting a ERR 031 in PJE mode and a Error G C/SK Adj Loop Over after hitting Flash in this mode.  I made some adjustments to the VMID and HMID so the patterns are hitting the sensors now, but no change.  I would appreciate your help.

Thanks,

Robert

Larry Dillon
Larry Dillon's picture
Robert, you are messing with

Robert, you are messing with the wrong controls! There is still a problem with the convergence so redo all the adjustments like they were before you started or you will have one heck of a mess when you do finally get the convergence working. I hope any changes you made in the service menu, you did write down the values first!? I certainly hope you did. You need to measure the voltages on the IC's using the schematic diagram and make sure there is - 20 to 25 volts and positive 20 to 25 volts. If there is not, there is a circuit protector or a small pico type fuse that is blown. If there is the proper voltage, you will need to check all of the resistors in the feedback circuit of the IC's. Sometimes peeps do get lucky and change the IC's and the set works great, but a lot of times this is not the case and further troubleshooting is needed.

cranemanjr
cranemanjr's picture
Larry,

Larry,

Larry, 

You are absolutely correct.  I did write the settings down and the original settings are in the manual (which is real nice), so there should be no problem getting back the the original settings.  I was not getting the 22V+ and the 22V- at the IC or the harness coming to the board.  I traced the harness back to the G board and and this morning I checked the voltage coming off the G board.  I think there are fuses possibly blown in the 22V lines.  I will set the settings back to original and hopefully it is just a blown pico on the G board.  Based on your previous accounts are there any other things you think it might be?

Thanks for all your help,

Robert

Larry Dillon
Larry Dillon's picture
Nope, always check voltages

Nope, always check voltages if a repair does not give you the proper results after you replace a part. Yes I agree the 22 volt pico fuses are bad. Also make sure there are no solder splashes as well as solder bridges around where you soldered. I have seen a tiny solder splash blow out the power supplies.

Seetha
Seetha's picture
Hi Larry,I am having

Hi Larry,I am having convergence issue with my Sony projection TV (KP-46WT500). You seem to be very knowledgeable with this issue (and much more!). I live in Martinez, CA. I am just wondering if you live the Bay Area, and if you do fix TV’s for a living, please contact me at: C.Seetharaman@Gmail.com.

I checked with the local TV repair shop and they are estimating a high cost (even without seeing the TV!).

ThanksSeetha 

Larry Dillon
Larry Dillon's picture
No sorry I do not live in the

No sorry I do not live in the rattle area of the bay. Ground moves around way too much for me. And yes I do fix TVs for a living. How did you ever guess? Lol

cranemanjr
cranemanjr's picture
Larry,

Larry,

I replaced a 5 amp pico on the G board that was blown (PS5001 going to terminal 4 on the board).  It was the -22V line to the IC's.  IC's seem to be working fine now.  I failed to previously mention that my G,R,B convergence settings were all at zero when this problem happened.  The picture is the same.  If I change the convergence settings for R,G,B I can get the grid close and the picture looks a lot better, but I have no idea what the factory settings are since they are not in the manual or listed in the TV after the problem.  Do you or anyone else have a list of the settings for these? 

 Thanks again,

Robert

Larry Dillon
Larry Dillon's picture
There are no factory settings

There are no factory settings. You have to adjust the set from the service menu. If you do not know how to do this, play it safe and call out an authorized Sony repair person to make the alignments, as this is not the place to be experimenting around with. These settings, if not done properly, can destroy a TV set.

cranemanjr
cranemanjr's picture
Larry,

Larry,

 I got a list of settings (E.G GRN\CENT, GRN\LIN, etc... including RED and BLUE also) off another site for a KP-44.  I set it is as my baseline and adjusted it from there.  I got the picture looking really good.  I set up the GREEN grid first by itself.  Then I adjusted the RED and Blue to match.  Once I got the grid close I changed the setting to the dots to fine tune the rough convergence alignment.  There is just a slight wave and the outside edge is slightly off.  Once I finish up the rough convergence I will go back in and do the fine convergence.  I was just wondering how are those color convergence settings established initially (factory?) and can I possibly get a list of settings from another KP-46WT500 user to create a more accurate baseline.  I just wanted to also say that YOU ARE THE MAN!, my brother gave me his 6 year old $1,800 color TV that he was throwing away (that looks like new).  I spent under $30 and now it is fixed ( 2- IC's and 1 - 5amp pico).  You have made my 10 year old son very happy.

Keep up the good work,

Robert

Larry Dillon
Larry Dillon's picture
Well I stand corrected. Yes

Well I stand corrected. Yes you can certainly use another sets settings for a baseline adjustment and go from there. Just rememebr, always write down anything you change just in case you need to go back and fix something. Great job!

Pokester
Pokester's picture
Larry Dillon said: Well I

Larry Dillon said: Well I stand corrected. Yes you can certainly use another sets settings for a baseline adjustment and go from there. Just rememebr, always write down anything you change just in case you need to go back and fix something. Great job!

Hey Larry and Robert - the baselines are in the service manual at the beginning of the section covering convergence.  I don't remember the page, but I do remember using the table to input the key, skew, pin, vlin, mlin, etc.... and then stepping through them grn (with bags over lenses),  then taking off red cover, doing red... then blu....  (it steps you through in janglish)

Larry Dillon
Larry Dillon's picture
Yes I do remember this now,

Yes I do remember this now, but been a while since I have had to do this.

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