OK, I guess it's my turn now. We lost power last night and the Mits won't reset. The green light is blinking.
Thanks for your time.
My turn. The eternal blinking light problem.
jprue, I will have that out to you ASAP. Good Luck with the repair.
I am new to this forums, I am too a victim of this green blinking on my TV.
I did unplug the power for whole day and pressed the systen reset hole and nothing working. I might have the same symptom as everybody has.
Do you might if you send me a copy a intruction?
Here is my email.
Already sent to you man. You only need to post in one thread.
I have a mitsubishi WS-65611 with the green blinking light. My DM board is good but my FMT board, the board under the DM board is bad. I have checked the fuses and they are fine. Is there anything that goes wrong that is common on this board? Any information would be great. Is there any place I can buy this board from? Please email me at Dfairch69@yahoo.com Thanks Dave
There is no FMT board inside this set, what board is bad or who told you it was bad?
I have been on the phone with Mitsubishi and found out about the FMT board prior to reading this post. I had a service techinician tell me it was a bad FMT board. I have had my DM module checked and the 7 capacitors and fuses are fine.The board under the DM module is bad. Mitsubishi called it a DM board. Model WS-65611 If this is correct is there any common things that go out that can cause the green blinking light? Thanks.
The part number for the DM board is 955C230002 for model WS-65611. Thanks
Larry can you email me the directions for the fix, I think my model number is WS-65869 or WS-65909, it just says "Medallion" on the front, doesn't say which model....Thanks!
Another club i didn't want to join ;(
My wife said she heard a pop the other day and kitchen lights flickered - had tv hooked up to a surge protector but now have blinking light. Tired usual wait hours and replug in, but no use. Tried self diagnosis test but couldn't get it to work either.
Had this problem previously and it finally worked after leaving it off for a day or two, but doesn't seem like it will happen now.
Could I also receive your email "fix" - thank, Larry.
Truthfully, I can't stand this tv and am sorry I ever got it - hardest tv to program I ever had.
Doesn't it seem like it's a manufacturer problem when you have over 400 posts regarding this??
Thanks for your help.
no not really as you did get a one year warranty for the TV set and Mitsubishi did honer the warranty during the time period if you did have a problem. You knew the warranty on the set when you purchased the set right? You were the one that chose not to buy an extended warranty on the set. True, a TV set should last more then a few years but Now a days , they do not. The only way Mitsubishi would have to do a nation wide repair recall would be if it were a safety issue and this is simply NOT the case. It would be nice if Mitsubishi would answer it's problem, with these sets especially since a lot of folks spent several thousand dollars for them but they do not have to by law. Your problem is due to bad capacitors. Replace everyone I have highlighted in the pictures. Even if they look good, replace them. This repair will or should work on about 55 to 65 % of these model numbers of the DLP Set.
I have a WS-65611 unlike the post that I have read here, My green light actually stops flashing after about 30 to 40 secs. I am also able to run the diagnostics by pressing the front panel Â“INPUTÂ” and Â“MENUÂ” buttons at the same time, and holding for 5 seconds. The code returned is 12, which according to the service manual is an indication of normal operation with no Errors found. Yet, when I push the power button, I hear a click as if the set is going to come on and the green LED come on but, approx 5-10 secs later it clicks again and the green LED goes off and nothing. Any ideas?
You will need to measure the standby as well as the switched power supplies and see which one is not coming up and letting the set start. It could be capacitors in the main power supply or perhaps a problem in the regulator circuit. A hard call I'm afraid without more information.
Larry Dillon said: no not really as you did get a one year warranty for the TV set ... Replace everyone I have highlighted in the pictures. Even if they look good, replace them. This repair will or should work on about 55 to 65 % of these model numbers of the DLP Set.
Understood about the warranty, but if you're suggesting to replace with better components I guess they could have too. It's not as simple as replacing a lamp for most of us.
Did you email me pictures or are they somewhere in these posts? I will check out your suggestions, thanks.
Thanks for the quick reply. Would you be able to list points where I should measure the voltages and the values that I should find at each of these points? Your assistance is greatly appreciated.
Steven, I sent you the pictures as well as the service manual to help you out.
George, I need an e-mail address and I will send you the service manual. That will show block diagrams on where the switched and the standby voltages are.
Larry Dillon said: Steven, I sent you the pictures as well as the service manual to help you out.
Thanks, but I cannot find an email from you regarding this. I also checked my messages on this forum.
I'm considering sending my DM board to PTS Electronics as some others have suggested. Anything I should ask them to do, i.e., replace ALL capacitors to prevent (uh, make that delay) future problems? It is $175 plus shpg. which seems reasonable, since i have no experience with this repair.
Again, my timer (power) light is constantly flashing on my WD-52725.
email is: email@example.com
I'm not sure if you've sent me the information that I need but if you have, I haven't received anything either.
Larry Dillon said: George, I need an e-mail address and I will send you the service manual. That will show block diagrams on where the switched and the standby voltages are.
You were going to send me intructions on checking the voltages on my ws65611. I never received anything.
george at networkjunkies dot net
I replaced the CAP's on the DM board and the blinking light is now gone and I have a picture back. I'm afraid it might be going bad again though. Last time before it went bad the TV kept flashing up the blue screen like it wasn't getting any video signal. It's doing the same thing again. The blue screen just pops up for no apparent reason. Any ideas???
That is not your problem now. Try using a DVD or another input and see if the problem still happens. There is another fault with the TV set. Great news that you fixed your original problem.
George, I did send them out to you man. I will try it again. I have seen a lot of firewalls block out my attachments.
Larry Dillon said: That is not your problem now. Try using a DVD or another input and see if the problem still happens. There is another fault with the TV set. Great news that you fixed your original problem.
Your right. I did check it some more last night. The problem I have with the screen going blue only happens on Input 1. I used the same cables and put them on Input 2 and it works fine there.
You might have dirty connections on those input jacks, bad connections in the input board or an input switching IC could be bad. or going bad. If you do not need the #1 input, I personally would nor worry about it.
Yes, not too worried about it now. I just moved it the #2 input. Shouldn't be a problem unless I keep running out of inputs. Thanks for all your help.
Protus, I hope this one is ok? I will try it again.
I see several folks did not get your emails including me. I posted May 5 for the DM board problem with the WD-52725. I'll include 2 different addresses this time - usually no problem getting attachments.
After spending some time reading other posts, is there more difficulty or special instructions with my model due to extra shielding as someone has posted? Any hints would be appreciated.
Sorry for the effort in trying agin - i do appreciate it.
Steven, I do try and keep up with folks when they are asking for help. Let me remind you, I HELP out here, no one compensates me for my troubles. I do not pick and choose who gets the help and who does not. If you give me an e-mail and it comes back as attachments were stripped off or bad e-mail, or the famous spam bot killer in the e-mail that I am suppose know what the original e-mail is or because of a company firewall issue, I stop there. I do have other things to do. Now people are not sure of the e-mails and want me to send to different ones. As far as the shielding, I do not know what others are talking about with these sets. I repair 65% of these models by simply replacing every capacitor in the pictures even if they do not LOOK bad. They could still be bad. If it does not work when your done with the caps, then your out maybe 15 bucks or so. better then a 150.00 service call. I will do my best to get these repair documents to you. Good luck
Just to let you know I got it at both emails and do appreciate it - I'll review it later.
I do appreciate your service and unless you read my request the wrong way, I meant it to mean sorry to bother you again but could you please try again to send it.
It's nice of you to use your expertise and help out so many - thank you again and I'll post back when I'm viewing large again.
I have a WS-73713 that has the green light blinking. I've hit reset, waited 10 minutes, unplugged and nothing. Please send me the info to see if your suggestion works. firstname.lastname@example.org....
As you can see im desperate i've posted on every relevent thread on this forum cause im not sure which one to get through to you the fastest you've helped so many people from what i can see. So let me just say thanks so much in advance. Got my fingers crossed this fix works...my set is just over 4 years old and i love the picture cant believe mits is not doing anything about it.
Steve, you need to only post in one thread, it is Sunday and I do have family time and church and things. I try to get to everyone ASAP. You should have it now. like the email Say's DO NOT use Radio Shack Capacitors so I do not know where you will get the right capacitors today.
could you send me the file for the DM board repair (with pictures). Thanks
Larry, where can I find the F9A04 and F9A05 Pico Fuses (Part 283P043090 (FUSE-LF2515A)
Let me rephrase..."Larry, where can I purchase the F9A04 and F9A05 Pico Fuses (Part 283P043090 (FUSE-LF2515A)?
I get them from HERE http://www.bluestar-online.com/5_AMP_PICO_p/5%20amp%20pico%20fuse.htm
i have a we 65813 with the blinking green light problem i have the back opened up but the picture from the repair manual i downloaded from you does not show me where the dm board is. i am assuming that the enclosed metal box on the left side looking in is the dm board box? assuming things gets me in trouble can you assist?
Larry sorry about the model number my thub gets in the way it should be WS65813. can you supply the repair instructions you refered to in several past posting. If so please send to my email. Thanks
sorry i am new to chat and do not know how to do everything, i will learn.
my email is email@example.com. Thanks
I thought I had submitted a comment but I don't see it here so I thought I would try again. I have a Mitsubishi WS65611 that suddenly stopped working. The green light comes on for a few seconds and then goes back off automatically with no response from the screen itself. It does not flash like so many others here unless I reset it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. My email address is MDverbois@sbcglobal.net. Thank you for your time.....Mark
I have a WD 52525 and I have the blinking light issue. Do you have the fix document for this model? If so, would you please forward it to me at firstname.lastname@example.org?
Larry, I have ws-65513 - I have that Blinking light also - can you send the instruction and a list of parts needed - my email is email@example.com
I certainly can. Good luck with the repair.
On it's way to both of you. Good Luck wih the repair.
Mverbois, Do a system self diagnostics on the set by pressing the input and the menu button together and holding theM down for a few seconds. Let me know what the two digit code That you get from the set as it will flash one digit, pause, then flash he next number, It Should repeat this a few times. Good luck
Thanks for the response. I don't have an input button on either the TV or the remote but I did hold down the "device" button and "menu" button together for a few seconds and the green light began to flash. The green light started flashing twice and did this ten times before stopping the sequence. Does this help at all?
No mark, I made the mistake when I told you to press the device button. There should be a two digit code. like 12, 22, 32, 33, 34,
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