OUR NETWORK:TiVo Community Sling Community RoboCommunity My DigitalEntertainer MediaSmart Home Pogoplugged See all... About UsAdvertiseContact Us

 
Learn about scoring Forum's Raw Score: 1.38074E7
April 7, 2007 05:35 PM

Categories: Televisions and Projectors

Member Avatar

sony51inch

Member
Joined: 04/07/2007

I have a sony KP-51WS510 with convergence problem.  the red line can not be manually adjusted up and down.  the blue line is okay.  I just bought 2 STK392-560 convergence ic.  will it work by just changing this ic or do I need to do something more.

Discussion:    Add a Comment | Comments 751-775 of 839 | Latest Comment | « Previous 129 30 31 32 33 34 Next »

October 14, 2009 4:17 PM

I bought this tv about a year ago with bad ics and I am finaly ready to attempt to replace the ics I checked the pico fuses under the ic fins they are ok is there anything else I should check. Model kp51ws510. I have the board out just waiting for the ics. Thank you for any help.

I'm not oerfect but I do my best. That's all we can do.

October 14, 2009 9:58 PM

hey guys,

new to the forums and TV problems in general. just got a samsung PT5598HDI and the picture is a bit blurred and color is off. lots of red and green tints. is this a convergence problem or just a bad bulb.
I do a lot of computer hardware work, so im confident i can do the work, just dont know TVs

any help appriciated - zach

View unverified member's comment - posted by Marcus witt

October 23, 2009 6:35 PM

hi,,,same convergance prob as everyone else. i was given a KP51WS510 and after reading till my eyes bleed i decided to give it a go. i got the D board out fairly trouble free, but that blasted red anode hv wire on the flyback drove me up a wall! i will include a simple trick {that worked for me} i found on another post. after adding up all the parts and expense etc...and not a lot of solder expierence here, although i am a 25 year diesel mechanic,lol, i called around on D board repair and ptscorp.com will do it for 98 dollars plus return shipping and even pay to have ups come out and pick it up! suprisingly, i called Sony themselves, and they will repair the D board for 65 dollars with a 90 day warranty and that includes return shipping back to you!! im going to fed ex my board out tommorrow its like 12 bucks and thats for the extra insurance i threw in ,they also said they have a 3-5 day turn around. i figure with the stk's costing at least 30,solder paste etc. what have i got to lose? all my fuses had continuity, not sure if thats the proper way to check them,{just for continuity} but alls i have is the remaining 2 picos on the G board to check. i'll post the turnout here in a week or so. heres the straw trick on that red HV anode wire that worked like a charm.there is a sony tol available for ten bucks or so, but dont waste the money i say....here it is:...........


You should not need a tool for these if you never yank on them before trying
to remove them properly. Just push the wire in, twist it about a quarter
turn, and it should come out easily. If you pull on it first, you spread
the clips and even the straw trick may not work.

drink straw trick:
> We have another guy in the field who brings me these boards. There is a
> tool
> he uses to get the high voltage leads out, but can use a drink straw in a
> pinch. The straw is slit so as to go around the red wire, pushed down into
> the FBT so as to get between the flanged cap on the wire and the
> surrounding
> inner part of the FBT.
> good luck folks, hope i have the same!

October 24, 2009 12:20 AM

thank you for your advice on the removal of the Sony second anode wire, yes it does explain several times on how to easily remove that pesky large red wire and yes if you yank on it first most likely you will have a very hard time removing the wire. I have mentioned the removal tool several times also but also mentioned it is really not necessary to have as as many as i have removed I have NEveR used one to remove the wire!!!!!
Larry Dillon
GOOD LUCK!!!!!

"Those who do not know their opponet's arguments, do not completely understand their own".

October 25, 2009 9:23 AM

Crownrock.. interesting comment. I tried to contact Sony, and all they gave me was the link to 'eservice.sony.com' which will just hook me up with a local service dealer. Can you give us the contact info you used to set up your D board repair?

Thanks
JP

October 25, 2009 11:26 AM

sure JP, here it is. actually if you go on Sony.com and punch up the D board part no.#A1302708A it will bring up the page for it stating it is discontinued, but shows a price of $65.00. you need to call the Sony repair center in Mt. Pleasant Pa, and talk to Jennifer Rohlfing. she will give you the low down on what to do. the phone number is (724)-696-7297.my take on this is that Sony either feels guilty or obligated or both {in my humble opinion} to its customers and owes it to them to keep them happy and coming back. im a Sony fan for 20+ years, and was fortunate to have this 6 year old set given to me, so if i invest say 80 bills in i... the 65 plus shipping etc...and it hopefully lasts a year or two, i can't complain. i just wonder that how we need to use the original Sanyo stk's why did they have such an early failure rate? i trust all the experts that warn not to use cheap 6 dollar knock off imitations, i just hope Sony doesnt do the same. 65.00 is awful cheap, so i hope they do a turnkey repair job and get me going again. while im here does anybody know how to properly test the pico fuses??? is a continuity test sufficent or do you need to check ohms etc.? all my D board picos had continuity but i want to make certain because i have two more to check on the G board as well. all in all its been very interesting learning something new, without getting jolted as well!! myany thanks go out to Larry D and everyone else who has taught and walked me through this.....this site rules!!!!

October 25, 2009 11:37 AM

Thanks 'Rock!
I'll wait to see when you get yours back, let us know what chips they put back in, assuming they change them!
Larry may be better qualified to answer this, but I would guess if they ohm out at 0, you are OK. I don't know how accurate a continuity test would be, as it depends on other items in the circuit, and what the meter determines as 'continuity'. Technically you should unsolder one side of the fuse to get an accurate reading of only that component. I haven't opened mine up yet, so no experience talking here, just some electronics background. The kit from Larry I guess would cost roughly the same, and you would know all the possible suspects are new, so still deciding which way to go. I have no problem replacing the components, but others may prefer the Sony route. I have to thank Larry and Ed for offering this kit, and don't expect they make much on them.
Keep us posted!
JP
Thanks 'Rock

October 25, 2009 2:30 PM

hi i was just wondering if there is picos on any other board that i should check before i replace the ics and plug it all in. i dont want to wreck the new ics before i even get to watch the tv. lol. every thing checks ok on the board with ics. thank you for any help

October 25, 2009 9:23 PM updated: October 25, 2009 9:24 PM

you should get the complete kit for your model as all ic's are not alike as there are some that are aftermarket or factory rejects and not the originals also the kit will have all the correct picos with the directions as well as the instructions for your model of set kit is the way to go man!!!!!Larry Dillon

"Those who do not know their opponet's arguments, do not completely understand their own".

October 26, 2009 1:24 AM

the testing of the picos is a simple continuity test if it measures no continuity the pico is bad it should also measure zero resistance
Larry Dillon

"Those who do not know their opponet's arguments, do not completely understand their own".

October 28, 2009 8:14 PM

hi,,,Mr. Larry D.........would you happen to know how many pico fuses there are on the G board? i only found one i hope im corret.it is a model KP 51WS510. also is it possible to have both bad stk ic's and ALL of the pico fuses to be good? all the pico's on my D board checked ok, and i only seem to find one on the G board .thanks so much to Larry and all here.

November 2, 2009 9:25 AM

crownrock, my 'G' board had two blown picofuses: PS5001 and PS5002, both 5A, feeding the +22v and -22v voltages to the STK chips on the 'D' board.

November 2, 2009 12:39 PM

Hi everyone, I replaced my convergence ic's stk392 560's a little over a year ago and the tv set worked fine... just recently the convergence problem came back and I suspected the replacement parts were the cheap kind so I ordered the kit and replaced the ic again and the tv is back in focus but when watching sports like football and the world series the picture looks like the peoples faces have a yellowish tint to them this only happens when watching sports and it seems like the HD is not as "sharp" as before... Larry do you know whats wrong?

November 2, 2009 11:31 PM

I replaced my stock ICs and now the tv won't turn on. I press the power button, then the tv clicks, the red light flashes eight times followed by four quick flashes, and then clicks again. After the last click the light will continue to flash a sequence of four flashes. Any help would be appreciated. I reconnected everything correctly and checked all of the fuses before I put it back together. Before I took it apart it would come on but had a convergence problem.

November 3, 2009 9:30 PM

I just wanted to make sure that the ICs are the problem and are in need of replacing. Here's a pic of what's going on...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v231/Iguana775/DSC02147.jpg

I did check the pico fuses on the G board and they were good.

November 6, 2009 11:02 PM updated: November 6, 2009 11:10 PM

I've been reading up on Tv issues for a while and I was hoping for a little clarification. Sometimes when you turn the TV on it will work for a few seconds, maybe 5-15, and then a blue screen flashes for a fraction of a second and it turns off. After it stays on it will work until you turn it off again. I have been looking at convergence issues because it also has the blue "rainbow" lines occasionally. I've read other posts that indicate it could also be a tube issue, because of the flash and shut off. Model is a kp-51ws500. Any help would be much appreciated.

November 7, 2009 1:21 AM

i need more clarification on what the problem is, sorry i do not understand what you mean. goes the screen just pop on blue with very small lines going from right to left/??
Larry DILLON.

"Those who do not know their opponet's arguments, do not completely understand their own".

November 7, 2009 2:16 AM

Larry,

My KP51WS510 is having the same convergence issue and I thought about throwing it away but was lucky to find this site. Hopefully I can fix it or have it fixed with a cheap price. I read the first 50 posts and saw that you sent out the service manual 2 years ago to help out with the fix. Are you still doing that? I don't know where the D board located.

Thanks.

November 7, 2009 9:54 AM

thebest advice I can tell you at this point is to go to tvrepairkits.com and order the complete convergence kit for your model of TV set, no need to search and order multiple parts from different sources and pay multiple shipping fees! The kit comes with original Sanyo STK IC'S , not those cheap aftermarket or china made IC'S full pictorial directions, the thermal paste, resistors, the correct Pico fuses, AND free live on-Line tech assistance in case you run into a problem with the repair. They ship out 2 to 3 day Priority mail, the next day in most cases GOOD LUCK!!!
Larry Dillon, senior tech/tvrepairkits.com
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3342653-convergence_fix

"Those who do not know their opponet's arguments, do not completely understand their own".

November 7, 2009 11:05 AM

hi,,i just had my D board repaired by Sony and bench tested,,,and still have the EXACT same convergance issues...i checked the 2 pico's on the G board and they have continuity. also before i sent it to Sony i checked the D board pico's and they all had continuity........{i figure if continuity passes thru they are all good}? am i mistaken? one question is, and i know Larry stresses it alot, is "did you plug in all connections"? i did... BUT theres one, im sure its in its proper place that is bugging me. its gray runs from the metal strip of plate above the big distribution block {maybe a ground plate}... a thick flat black wire plugs in beside it on the metal plate ... well there is a single gray wire that plugs into the D board, and at its end is a gray plastic bulb and it has a white 4 pin connector and a tiny loop of white wire on the 4 pin connector. there are 2 spots on the board {one black 4 pin mounted on the board right at the very edge where the back panel mounts up, and a white 4 pin mounted on the board a little further in {few inches} that are both 4 pins. im quite sure the gray wire with the bulb and white connector go to the white 4 pin mounted on the board, or am i wrong? its odd the gray wire plugs into both 4 pin connectors,,, but i should have payed closer attention. i havent tried it in the black, only the white, and the tv is still the same, i just dont want to fry the board if i plug it in the wrong end. im sure Sony did a good job and checked the D board out completely .....hopefully its just a bad pico on the G board....or plugged in the wrong 4 pin? would the wrong connector cause it to bow-tie and 3d color still? is there anything else on the G board to effect convergance that i overlooked? ALSO the heat sinks were still cold after at leat 45 mins of the tv being on. i tried to auto focus and converge adjust as well ....no help ill try to take a picture of the board to show the 2 4 pins in question,,,,hopefully someone may know the correct placement. ANY help is GREATLY appreciated.thanks to all

November 7, 2009 11:51 AM

I'm sure you have the gray and black wires on right as my brother told me to check those and see if he forgot to hook them up and the big flat black wire does go from the middle of the frame to the metal sheild over that board on the left and the gray loops from next to the black to under the cross brace and loops under the distribution block and down to the D-board. It plugs in right where you said to the white plug-in about a inch to the left of the left sts ic. At least that's the same way mine is pluged in but I wasn't the one that worked on it but I'm sure you have it right. And yes a white wire loops right there at the plug-in.

November 7, 2009 12:07 PM

I just opened the back on mine and saw that black plug-in you are talking about. I must have missed it before. As I said I never worked on this set so your guess is as good as mine! Please let me know what you find out as I don't want to hook it up to the black one and smoke the board! Does your tv play a DVD player clear but fuzzy on the tv with cable?

November 7, 2009 12:12 PM

thanks mike for the help........i havent tried,,,still the same 3D bow-tie convergance probs.........is yours working? you said the gray wire with white lops plugs into the white 4 pin mounted on the D board right?

November 7, 2009 12:46 PM

Yes, that's the first thing my brother told me to check. He's loaded with money so I have to work with junk, he just goes out and buy's a bigger one! I have all the manuals and parts list and all that stuff, it's to big to email but I can give you the links to download them if you need them.
Mike

Discussion:    Add a Comment | Back to Top | Comments 751-775 of 839 | Latest Comment | « Previous 129 30 31 32 33 34 Next »

Add Your Reply

(will not be displayed)

Email me when comments are added to this thread

 
 

Please log in or register to participate in this community!

Log In

Remember

Not a member? Sign up!

Did you forget your password?

You can also log in using OpenID.

close this window
close this window