Sony KP-46WT500 Convergence Repair

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Bruce 76
The UPS guy just dropped off

The UPS guy just dropped off my order from BD Enterprises with the STKs, heat sink grease and some wick.  I guess I'll replace the chips, check for any blown fuses I can find, check for fried resistors and fire it up.  I hope I won't blow the chips if I missed something, I assume it simply won't converge until I get it all...

Pokester
Good luck!   Let me know how

Good luck!   Let me know how it goes!

Poke 

Larry Dillon
Auto-convergence is nothing

Auto-convergence is nothing more then a preset convergence that is stored in an electronic memory and when you press the flash focus button, it calls up for this memory and inputs it or loads the preset settings into the electronic convergence circuit the same way that the service mode does it.  It should explain in the service manual how to set up the auto convergence. If you do not change the entire board, and only change the chips, the auto convergence should be ok. If you do however change out the entire board, the eeprom IC on the convergence board should be swapped out also.  Oh And BTW, I did send that manual to you my freind. I sent it to  [email protected]

Bruce 76
Thank you Larry for the

Thank you Larry for the information above - it's good to know as I proceed.  I haven't seen the email yet (address looks good) and I did a test email with Pando which worked.  Could be lost in ether?

I'm only changing the STKs for now, so I'll keep the eeprom as is.  Thanks again!

Pokester
Bruce - the latest pando

Bruce - the latest pando seems to have issues for those of us who don't turn our computer off every day... so, try turning your computer off/on if you haven't since you installed...

A friend had the same issues, but when he rebooted he found all 5 things I sent him in the recieved tab....

Bruce 76
Hey thanks Poke - I rebooted

Hey thanks Poke - I rebooted but nothing so far.  My test sent me an email, which I figure really should start the process --

BUT - SUCCESS!!!!  I put in the ICs and one bad pico fuse - hit "Flash Focus" and COOL!!!

Thanks so much to Larry and Poke!  I would like to say some more about the process that I think all will be interested in - but right now - I'm headed for a BEER and a MOVIE!!

 Will update soon!

 Bruce

Larry Dillon
Where did you buy the IC's

Where did you buy the IC's from? Do the new IC's have Sanyo written on them?, And did you use heat sink compound on the back of the new IC's?

Bruce 76
Hi Larry,

Hi Larry,

I bought the ICs from B&D Enterprises - and although the invoice says "Sanyo" the chips don't - which was concern to me after reading your comments....  I did use heat sink compound (ZnO Silicone).

I learned a few things I'd like to pass on.  First, I can't imagine doing this repair with it still in the TV as another website indicated (wire the board up and R&R the parts).  I started taking off the heatsinks, and with the heat required to wick the solder, I asked myself why I was taking them off in the first place.  So I left them on and simply took out the ICs.  I then checked for any blown pico fuses and found PS8001 open.  So it was 4:45 on Friday afternoon when I started frantically calling a TV shop to see if I could get one (I live in the Sierras and the closest resemblance of a town is over 30 min away....)  The guy said he had a 3A, not a 3.15A.  He said he replaces them all the time and they are more of a failure device than actually working close to their rating.  Since it was a lower value I decided to use it - we'll see...  He also said that he just looks at the board for burned resistors, if none, checks the pico fuses and if one is blown he checks the impedance of the IC where the fuse is connected.  If "OK", he just replaces the fuse, which he says are very delicate and can just break on their own.  This would save a lot of work if that's all it is....

The only "yikes!" I had doing this job is taking off the red wires from the HV xformer.  The secondary that goes to the other set of coils was kind of tough to push and twist 90 deg.  But the real problem was the other red wire going to the front panel pot panel..   I kept pulling/twisting/swearing until it just came out and looked like I had just pulled the wire out without a connector.  During reassembly, I just pushed back in.  Larry - what's the right way to take this wire out???

Larry - thanks again for your insight and everyone who has contributed to this thread.  I was very proud of myself, I must say, for doing it without a manual.

Along that thougt, I still haven't received an email with the manual.  Not to bug you, but am I doing something wrong??

Until later guys!

cranemanjr
Larry,

Larry,

 First of all thanks for the manual.  I installed the new IC's and the image looks the same.  I am not able to modify the G,R, or B settings in the service mode.  For example in the GRN CENT nothing happens when I change the values and it won't record them obviously.  I can modify other settings, but not these.  I am getting a ERR 031 in PJE mode and a Error G C/SK Adj Loop Over after hitting Flash in this mode.  I made some adjustments to the VMID and HMID so the patterns are hitting the sensors now, but no change.  I would appreciate your help.

Thanks,

Robert

Larry Dillon
Robert, you are messing with

Robert, you are messing with the wrong controls! There is still a problem with the convergence so redo all the adjustments like they were before you started or you will have one heck of a mess when you do finally get the convergence working. I hope any changes you made in the service menu, you did write down the values first!? I certainly hope you did. You need to measure the voltages on the IC's using the schematic diagram and make sure there is - 20 to 25 volts and positive 20 to 25 volts. If there is not, there is a circuit protector or a small pico type fuse that is blown. If there is the proper voltage, you will need to check all of the resistors in the feedback circuit of the IC's. Sometimes peeps do get lucky and change the IC's and the set works great, but a lot of times this is not the case and further troubleshooting is needed.

cranemanjr
Larry,

Larry,

Larry, 

You are absolutely correct.  I did write the settings down and the original settings are in the manual (which is real nice), so there should be no problem getting back the the original settings.  I was not getting the 22V+ and the 22V- at the IC or the harness coming to the board.  I traced the harness back to the G board and and this morning I checked the voltage coming off the G board.  I think there are fuses possibly blown in the 22V lines.  I will set the settings back to original and hopefully it is just a blown pico on the G board.  Based on your previous accounts are there any other things you think it might be?

Thanks for all your help,

Robert

Larry Dillon
Nope, always check voltages

Nope, always check voltages if a repair does not give you the proper results after you replace a part. Yes I agree the 22 volt pico fuses are bad. Also make sure there are no solder splashes as well as solder bridges around where you soldered. I have seen a tiny solder splash blow out the power supplies.

Seetha
Hi Larry,I am having

Hi Larry,I am having convergence issue with my Sony projection TV (KP-46WT500). You seem to be very knowledgeable with this issue (and much more!). I live in Martinez, CA. I am just wondering if you live the Bay Area, and if you do fix TV’s for a living, please contact me at: [email protected].

I checked with the local TV repair shop and they are estimating a high cost (even without seeing the TV!).

ThanksSeetha 

Larry Dillon
No sorry I do not live in the

No sorry I do not live in the rattle area of the bay. Ground moves around way too much for me. And yes I do fix TVs for a living. How did you ever guess? Lol

cranemanjr
Larry,

Larry,

I replaced a 5 amp pico on the G board that was blown (PS5001 going to terminal 4 on the board).  It was the -22V line to the IC's.  IC's seem to be working fine now.  I failed to previously mention that my G,R,B convergence settings were all at zero when this problem happened.  The picture is the same.  If I change the convergence settings for R,G,B I can get the grid close and the picture looks a lot better, but I have no idea what the factory settings are since they are not in the manual or listed in the TV after the problem.  Do you or anyone else have a list of the settings for these? 

 Thanks again,

Robert

Larry Dillon
There are no factory settings

There are no factory settings. You have to adjust the set from the service menu. If you do not know how to do this, play it safe and call out an authorized Sony repair person to make the alignments, as this is not the place to be experimenting around with. These settings, if not done properly, can destroy a TV set.

cranemanjr
Larry,

Larry,

 I got a list of settings (E.G GRN\CENT, GRN\LIN, etc... including RED and BLUE also) off another site for a KP-44.  I set it is as my baseline and adjusted it from there.  I got the picture looking really good.  I set up the GREEN grid first by itself.  Then I adjusted the RED and Blue to match.  Once I got the grid close I changed the setting to the dots to fine tune the rough convergence alignment.  There is just a slight wave and the outside edge is slightly off.  Once I finish up the rough convergence I will go back in and do the fine convergence.  I was just wondering how are those color convergence settings established initially (factory?) and can I possibly get a list of settings from another KP-46WT500 user to create a more accurate baseline.  I just wanted to also say that YOU ARE THE MAN!, my brother gave me his 6 year old $1,800 color TV that he was throwing away (that looks like new).  I spent under $30 and now it is fixed ( 2- IC's and 1 - 5amp pico).  You have made my 10 year old son very happy.

Keep up the good work,

Robert

Larry Dillon
Well I stand corrected. Yes

Well I stand corrected. Yes you can certainly use another sets settings for a baseline adjustment and go from there. Just rememebr, always write down anything you change just in case you need to go back and fix something. Great job!

Pokester
Larry Dillon said: Well I

Larry Dillon said: Well I stand corrected. Yes you can certainly use another sets settings for a baseline adjustment and go from there. Just rememebr, always write down anything you change just in case you need to go back and fix something. Great job!

Hey Larry and Robert - the baselines are in the service manual at the beginning of the section covering convergence.  I don't remember the page, but I do remember using the table to input the key, skew, pin, vlin, mlin, etc.... and then stepping through them grn (with bags over lenses),  then taking off red cover, doing red... then blu....  (it steps you through in janglish)

Larry Dillon
Yes I do remember this now,

Yes I do remember this now, but been a while since I have had to do this.

cranemanjr
Pokester,

Pokester,

Page 36 in the manual gives you a section to write down these values between -512 to 511.  There are no starting values in the manual that I found.  Unfortunately that manual has been at my side for 2 weeks.  I took settings from a KP-44 off of another site, it got me close.  I just wanted to get settings from someone with a KP-46WT500. 

The first and largest priority in setting the convergence is getting your GREEN correct, that is going to help you set everthing else.  I saw on another site that there is a company that will make you a grid overlay that you can put on your TV.  You set your GREEN to that.  Once that is set you can do your other colors.  You just need to get them close.  I did the fine tune adjustment with the GREEN set from tweaked values from a KP-44.  My grids were close and then I changed to fine adjustment mode and I got it almost dead on all the way around.  The picture is super clear.  If your GREEN is not right, nothing else will be right.  I know I that I have to adjust one more thing.  I think I changed a value in the MID-2 or MID-3 section on accident.  The reason I know this is because when I hit FLASH, in service node to write the values to the FLASH,  I get an error SG3 or sensor 1 error.  In PJE at parameter 62 is 011 which means GREEN sensor 1 error.  My sensors are not picking up my FLASH because I changed one of the previous values that is putting my FLASH out of range.  I still have a great picture it is just something is not set correctly.  Work in progress until I figure out what it is that I changed.  If anyone can post their values I would appreciate it.  Just to check things over.  Setting the convergence on you understand it is not that hard, it just takes a while to sink in.  Hope this helps anyone the way Larry and this site has helped me. 

 Thanks,

Robert

  

Pokester
Took me forever to find this.

Took me forever to find this... (was almost thinking I had divine help while fixing... but then found it in the text...  so it wasn't some miraculous vision...)

There are TWO versions of this manual, one for the WIDE and one for the 4:3 version of this TV...

Okay... the 4:3 manual says on  page 27 .... to get the values from page 24....    (for wide TV manual, search for MLIN)

3-11-2. Main Deflection Adjustment

Note : Before this adjustment, input the data of PJE item No. 78-85, (See page 24).
     1. Place the caps on the red and blue lenses so that only the green color is displayed....

IGNORE THIS NOTE IN SECTION 3-11-1!!!!  DO NOT INIT!!!!  (This was an error and corrected in an addendum that I didn't see til AFTER!!!)

Note : When you replaced printed circuit boards or devices or CRTs, and when correction is drastically necessary, press "x" + "ENTER" buttons to initialize the data in the Projector Engine mode.

(I replaced the key with X so no one does this...)

to write the data.

But, yes... it steps you through as you said, Robert... so I wasted like  TWO HOURS by having to re-converge (I always sucked at doing convergence!  hahaha)  So - be advised those that NEED to do this, you're committing yourself to a few hours of frustration if you init without checking your voltages and fuses first!!!  But page 24 gives you some CLOSE starting values ...

Oh - and Robert - I couldn't get the HV off AT ALL.  When I realized I risked harming the wire, I went ahead and did the whole repair in a cramped corner on my elbows in the living room... with a shop light clamped above me.  LOL - then I got like 3 sensor errors before realizing that the shoplight was pouring enough light in to keep it from working right.... so shut it off and flipped the back cover up and TADA!

 (<-- Knows that Larry is just shaking his head and rolling his eyes hahahaha!)

Larry - gotta thank you for putting up with us amateurs.. because you have the patience of Job, my friend... hahaha... but, you're helping a lot of us poor boys hold onto a fantastic set... and keeping dozens of these things from hitting the landfill (as the shop bill for this would surely end up in these TVs getting kicked to the curb).

cranemanjr
Pokester,

Pokester,

 The unit it all buttoned up and I am getting the error.  The flashing lights on the side are more visible than the ones on the top and bottom.  The side lights come out all the way, but the top and bottom come out about half way.  This makes me think that I screwed up a setting in another area like the MID-1, 2 or 3.  Picture is great... a little wave at the bottom because I need to reconverge the GREEN a little better then adjust the other colors to match.  I know that hitting the flash in service mode will write the values to the flash, but does it also automatically teak your settings also.  I get what you mean about the patience of Job with the system.  That is my son's name.  No "E" on the end.  If you have any input on the sensor error I would appreciate.  Fine tune convergence is soooooo sweet.

-Robert

Pokester
Robert -there is an error

Robert -there is an error code list in the manual...  in mine it's page 30...  

Search for the words "error code list" within adobe reader... and it should come up

It shows the error code on the right, description of the error then which setting is potentially off... 

I had to close the curtains because I have a really bright house... and it kept causing S0 and S1 errors from sun coming in from the side and above...

cranemanjr
Pokester,

Pokester,

 The flash worked just days ago before I made changes and it is in my basement so it is pretty dark.  There must be a setting for the flash lights that I changed (stupid).  My picture looks great.  I just have a slight wave to the picture at the bottom and top.  I don't think that I have the same manual as you becuase things that you described in earlier posts I did not find.  My page 30 has settings for the MID-1 and MID-2.  My error cose list is on page 43.  It does say to change 69 HLE.  Which I have tried but can't seem to come up with the correct setting.  What is your setting in PJE for 69 HLE and what are your GRN convergence settings.  Here is what I started with:

GRN\CENT -039 -002

GRN\SKEW 038 -055

GRN\SIZE 000 -200

GRN\LIN 015 000

GRN\KEY XXXX 000

GRN\PIN 000 237

GRN\MLIN 000 XXXX

GRN\MSIZ 000 XXXX

I am going to try to get a grid so that all my boxes are exactly equal.

-Robert

Pokester
Hey Robert - I have confirmed

Hey Robert - I have confirmed there's areas of stretching/compressing that weren't noticeable before... 

I suspect this is because I'm prettly blind and when I straightened the lines, I was actually bending them to where they appeared straight through my glasses.

I'm going to redo the convergence wearing contacts when I get a chance.... so, don't want to post my values as I know they're off...

cranemanjr
Pokester,

Pokester,

 I had the same problem.  Picture looked good, but the boxes were not set-up correctly.  So... I figured in order to do it correctly I needed to make a grid according to the size of the center boxes in the center of the grid.  I came up with a size of .75 (3/4") high x 1.480 wide (digital caliper reading).  I am not sure if this is the exact size since I could not find that info anywhere, but it's close enough for now. 

I made the grid in Autocad and had a guy print it out full scale on a pen plotter.  He used white paper, but in a dark room it was translucent enough.   So I taped it on the TV and set all my GREEN to the grid.  I set up the grid roughly and then went to fine adjustment.  In fine adjustment I set the grid to dots.  I aligned every dot in the GREEN to the grid overlay that I made (about 1/2 hr to 1hr. worth of work).  Then I removed the paper grid overlay.  Next... I matched up all the RED and then finally the BLUE and then Mute + ENTER'd it.  You need to get up close to the TV set and get into fine adjustment mode and set the grid to dots and align ever set of dots GREEN, RED, and BLUE to each other.  This is the most accurate way to do it.  Don't forget to MUTE+ENTER it after you are sure that you set everything correctly. 

My wife has called the TV my mistress, since I have spent more time with it than her lately.  But... it's for the family.  So take your time and do it right.  I spent about 2 hours total.  I am curious though what the actual grid size is supposed to be.  If you figure that out let me know.  I could not find anyone that could give me that info.  I am sure it is some metric measurement.  Even the Sony repair shop said that they have no grid, they use string.  That is a little barbaric for my taste. 

My brother came over this weekend to see the TV he gave to me for FREE (he was going to throw it out).  First of all he can't believe that I fixed it for under $30 (BIG THANKS TO THIS SITE AND LARRY) and he said the picture looked as good as his new Samsung 46" LCD ($2500 retail).  Hope this approach might be able to help someone out.  Let me know what you come up with.

Robert

Pokester
LOL - funny, I was thinking

LOL - funny, I was thinking of using string to do it, too! 

Actually, the picture is beautiful til you get a pan with something that's totally horizontal or vertical.... then you see the bubble effect...

But, my glasses cause things to shift by inches to nearly a foot as they move from center to outside of lens...  even on a perfect TV.  That's why it's taken so long to confirm it's really doing that... hahah

Matt Whitlock
I have a Sony projection TV

I have a Sony projection TV KP-46WT510, when the set is turned on the
standby light blinks four times. I have replaced IC8003(LA78045). (the
board number is A1302708A)
After replacing the IC I am still experiencing the same problem as the
standby light is still blinking four times. I am asking if you can
assist me with the problem and a service manual will be greatly
appreciated. thanks in advance.

Larry Dillon
Where do you want the manual

Where do you want the manual sent to? There is no e-mail address to send it to here.

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