I read all the message boards that had to do with my model number. How I went about it was to type my model number and blinking green light of death. IO have never soldered or desoldered and was way intimidated. They sent me instructions, I followed them and I fixed my own TV. It was a great feeling. I was going to scrap my too. I figured for 20.00 bucks to give it a shot and it worked. I can send you what was sent to me if you want. What is your e-mail
Categories: Televisions and Projectors
My wd-62527 started acting up tonight. We were watching tv, had a very brief power outage and then the tv came back on but not all of the inputs showed on the input screen (some were grayed out). I turned it back off and now all I can get is blinking green power light.
It blinks for about a minute, goes out for for a bit then comes back. It just repeats that over and over.
The Blinking Green Light Of Death can be fixed generally in one of two ways.
It is possible that the Demod Power supply has a bad capacitor or a few bad capacitors - but I have discovered in most cases when these capacitors are replaced the old ones test fine. You can open up your set and go into the Demod power supply and visually inspect the capacitors to see if they look they are failing. Sometimes the capacitor will blow out and sometimes they get swollen at the top - if you see either they need replacing. If you suspect there is a bad cap you need to order new capacitors - I advise going to Digikey www.digikey.com. Be sure to write down the value of the capactiors and even the make but you can replace with another brand so don't worry. Also - replace them all - I think there will be either (4) or (7) depending upon your model. Given the model of your set I would say that it is probably around 5 years old now? You can also try going to TV Repair Kits to see if they have the capacitor repair kit - http://www.tvrepairkits.com/ - if you don't see it there you might want to try calling them
Unplug the TV for at least a week or more - preferably 10 days to 2 weeks maybe even longer. The reason for this is that there are capacitors in the set which hold a charge and will slowly release with time. Some of these capacitors given their size will take quite a long time to discharge.
So why is discharging the capacitors so important and why did this most likely happen? Basically after your power hit the data most likely became corrupt because the DM and the other processor got confused and lost sync and the green blinking light shows that the circuits are trying to boot up and get back into sync. Once the power is completely drained from the TV generally in most cases when you power back on the set it will come back on because both circuits can boot up and sync properly - takes about 75 seconds or so if I recall.
One other note you can manually discharge capacitors too but as I am not sure what your techincal level is you might not feel comfortable in doing this. Also this can be dangerous.
Assuming after this you got your set to work again I would strongly advise purchasing a UPS. You can get an APC UPS for around a $100 (a good one) - check your power supply rating (watts) on the back of the set and purchase a UPS which is capable of at least that number preferrably more. The UPS will filter your power and prevent this from happening again. I purchased an APC model, APC Back-UPS ES 8-Outlet 650VA, for my 55" TV after repairing my TV. I have had some power hits due to Thunderstorms since I have put the UPS in and my TV has never affected. Well worth the money!
***Warning about capacitors - capacitors can be dangerous if handled improperly. A charged high voltage power supply capacitor can be very dangerous and even fatal. Use caution and common sense when examining so as not to get injured.
i have a mitsubishi 60 dlp hd tv wd 60735 when i turn on tv the green light blinks for 20 to 30 seconds then turns on has done it for a few days what does that mean and is there a problem with tv i replaced projection lamp 2 months ago if this makes a difference
i did everything , and i dont have the problem solve, still have the blincking green ligth ,i change the four , and still same problem
20 to 30 seconds? Is it constant blinking or does it look like there might be a pattern? It could be the lamp and that the TV is giving a warning on the lamp via the blinking - I am not sure as I do not have the manual. I would download a manual and see if this might be the case... Also - you need to be very careful when handling and isntalling these lamps. improper installation/handling can drastically reduce the life of these lamps
What model TV do you have?
Age of unit: About 7 years.
Rear Projection HD set, Mitsubishi WS-55511
Nature of problem: Blinking green light of death. Upon plugging the set back in after vacation, the green LED on the front of the set would blink continuously and the set would not turn on. I ordered the blinking green light kit from tvrepairkits.com after seeing this link on a tech forum, suggesting the capacitors were bad on the DM board inside the DM module. The kit arrived within days of ordering. The online instuctions were very detailed and could be followed even by a layman such as myself. Very detailed with lots of photos. My DM module was simpler to remove than the instructions indicated. It simply slid out after about five cables were disconnected from other boards. Buckled everything up and plugged the set back in. The blinking light started as it always had. It should normally go out in about a minute after plugging in to wall. I really didn't hold out a lot of hope that it would go out....and then....it went out! I pushed the power button and she fired right up! What a thrill! Including shipping, it cost me $45.90 to fix a set I paid about 3000 bucks for 7 years ago and was loathe to just throw away. I certainly wasn't going to pay nearly a thousand bucks to fix this set. It may be a little bulky, but the picture is beautiful as well as the sound system. You guys are great. A very reasonably priced gamble that worked. Watching a movie in HD while I type this, good to have my TV back after almost two weeks without it. Thanks!
I was able to get my Mitsubishi back on line after a power surge for under $100. Bought the parts from TV Repair kits.com and the extras from Radio Shack as suggested. I have absolutely no experience in soldering or electronics and was able to follow the directions and pictures. All in all it took about 2 hours to get rid of that blinking green light.
Don't forget to purchase a UPS once you have fixed your TV. This will help to safeguard against future power losses and spikes which the Mitsubishi sets, especially as they get holder, do not handle well...
Hi I have a wd-57733 that has the green blinking light of death when i turn it on it blinks continously after a min it i can hit the power button and it stops for a min. then starts blinking again i notice that the lamp is on but still have black screen any help with this would be greattly appriecated.
i did everything and still does not work ,i need help its a ws65615 mitsubishi,,
i did solded the 4 capasitors and my tv still blincking ,can sombody help me , i did it wrong ??? or something its a ws 65615
I have a ws 65615 mitsubishi and can somebody tell me how many capasitors there are on this tv that I have to change , I change four of them and still have the problem but I see another ones the same size ,do I change them ????? ..
I have a Mitsu mod. 55511 with the blinking green light. Performed the basic t-shooting to no avail. I now have the DM module on the table but cannot find any bad caps. (telltale bulged ends). Both chip fuses are good. What's next? Thanks
Check in your DM module to see if there is a small daughter board - called an E2P module. If there is - try pulling out the board and reconnecting, without the E2P board installed, to see if it works. I am not sure if the model set you have has this or not. Please note that it is entirely possible if the TV comes on the picture will not look all that great - it stores most of the settings. However if it is faulty and you remove it and it works then at least you know this needs to be replaced.
One other thing to check for - there are fuses on the DM power suppply board that don/t look like traditional fuses - more like a resistor. Test for contunitiy using a multimeter to be sure that these are not bad. Please note that a physical inspection on these components will not suffice they need to be tested. Be sure you have your set unplugged while doing any of this work!
I'd add to zimzim's comment that the caps need not look bad to be bad. I removed and checked with a cap meter when I did my tv and most were almost within spec at room temp. I replaced them anyway and the tv worked afterwards. In the past 5
years I have fixed a furnace board, a roku set box and the tv all by replacing some electrolytics.
good point on the caps as mikestaub mentioned - also caps with age develop ESR, electro static resistance, as they age. They are also rated for a number of hours - generally longer lasting ones are around 3000 hours - which in your TV set is not that long of a time. Think about how many hours a day your set is on, then multiply that by the number of days and years... Also - what kind of power has been feeding these caps??? In most cases I see the issue with the BGLOD after a power hit - older caps are not nearly as tolerant as newer ones nad I am sure they have experienced a number of surges and dropouts in voltage over their lifetime... Electolytic caps are cheap - so replacing them is a small gamble if you will. Certainly the cost of a serviceman just to inspect will cost more...
Don't forget, the DM module is always on, so its 8760 hours/year for those unless you unplug or power strip it. I also have a hunch that if the electrolytics are used in a switching supply, which I am pretty sure the DM module uses, the life is reduced even more. That is just a hunch, but my roku P/S also needed some replaced and it is a switcher. I have electronics that are decades old that still work fine using the conventional P/S approach. Maybe it is the ESR that hits a switcher harder at 50 or 100KHz more than filtering 60 cycles.
Well....not so "Lucky" On this end...went to Radio shack to get the .99 cent parts...total 7.50 with TAX ...No Biggie...Ends up..I asked a repair guy what was up ..Then I took the SawZall to it & didnt look back! Good luck to everyone! "Flat screen for Christmas!"
Ordered and received the caps, (7 in my unit, Mitsu. mod. 55511). Installed them today, they are both longer and larger in diameter, making it a bit crowded on the board. Plugged the unit in, watched the light blink for about 60 secs, then go out. Powered up and wa-la! Houston, we have lift off! Cost was $10.14 and about three hours total. Now I have a big screen for the basement. Just have to get it down there somehow. Thanks for the info, guys.
Short Circuit - Congrats on the fix!
The difference in size is probably because the ones you got are a higher voltage or a different manufacturer I am guessing - which is fine...
Be sure to purchase a UPS now, APC makes a good one, this will help avoid this and other issues from happenening in the future due to power hits and spikes. In case you are not sure what model to get look at the back of your TV and it should tell you the power consumption of the TV - possibly 300W or so depending upon make and model. Get a UPS that will supply at least that number - preferabbly higher. APC makes a model BE750G which has a 450W output. This is a wise investment and a must have for these TVs in my opinion...