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Mitsubishi "Blinking Green Light" Repair Procedure



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Discussion:    Add a Comment | Comments 301-325 of 529 | Latest Comment | « Previous 111 12 13 14 15 1622 Next »

February 27, 2010 1:45 AM

Larry Dillon said: The best advice I can tell you at this point is to go to tvrepairkits.com and order the blinking light kit for your model of set, click here please: http://www.tvrepairkits.com/xcart/home.php?partner=larry the kit comes with the high temperature/ high frequency/long life 105 Celsius type capacitors (not those cheap Radio Shack caps) full easy to follow pictorial directions, AND free live on-Line tech assistance in case you run into a problem, all kits are shipped out within 24 hours in most cases, 2 to 3 day Priority mail. GOOD LUCK!!! Larry Dillon,

Just curious I had used 6 capactiors of the same brand and one of a different brand - which shouldn't matter given they were all 1000uf and 25V or higher.  I am curious about the SMD Fuses - where are these located?  I probably will go purchase the kit - I had reservations about purchasing the capacitors at Radio Shack - maybe I got a bad one...

One other question should I use the 15W or 25W setting on my soldering iron.  I have quite bit of experience with soldering BTW but it mostly pertains to audio connectors...

February 27, 2010 4:19 AM

soldering is soldering my friend,if you can solder audio connectors you should be able to unsolder/solder on a printed circuit board, also the higher voltage caps does not really help or matter but it is the temperature rating of the capacitor. the original caps are 85 Celsius, and the newer replacement caps are 105 degree Celsius,
Larry Dillon

"Those who do not know their opponent's arguments, do not completely understand their own".**For complete TV repair kits including parts goto www.TvRepairKits.com

February 28, 2010 1:50 PM

Larry Dillon said: soldering is soldering my friend,if you can solder audio connectors you should be able to unsolder/solder on a printed circuit board, also the higher voltage caps does not really help or matter but it is the temperature rating of the capacitor. the original caps are 85 Celsius, and the newer replacement caps are 105 degree Celsius, Larry Dillon
This depends on the set you have, my WS-55511 had 105 celsius from the factory.

March 1, 2010 3:42 PM

so...anybody know what that blue\purple jumper line (I am no electrician so I'm sure thats not what it's called) is doing on the FMT board? And whether it should pass a continuity test?

I ask because the caps were bad on the FMT board and I replaced them...and I am checking all the fuses and such so I don't have to take it apart again...thats when I decided to look at that jumper line thingy...it looks like there is a fuse or something inside the tubing on one end...

March 1, 2010 6:53 PM

thomasblake said: so...anybody know what that blue\purple jumper line (I am no electrician so I'm sure thats not what it's called) is doing on the FMT board? And whether it should pass a continuity test? I ask because the caps were bad on the FMT board and I replaced them...and I am checking all the fuses and such so I don't have to take it apart again...thats when I decided to look at that jumper line thingy...it looks like there is a fuse or something inside the tubing on one end...
It seems to be a zenner diode inside the tubing...whatever this wire does, I took it off and the tv will power on now...I am only speculating but I think this was some sort of quick fix so mitsu could use older fmt boards and not have to reman new ones...anyone know what its function is?

March 5, 2010 2:38 PM

i need a picture a clear close up so i can see
Larry

"Those who do not know their opponent's arguments, do not completely understand their own".**For complete TV repair kits including parts goto www.TvRepairKits.com

March 5, 2010 11:50 PM updated: March 6, 2010 12:00 AM

Larry Dillon said: soldering is soldering my friend,if you can solder audio connectors you should be able to unsolder/solder on a printed circuit board, also the higher voltage caps does not really help or matter but it is the temperature rating of the capacitor. the original caps are 85 Celsius, and the newer replacement caps are 105 degree Celsius, Larry Dillon

I just soldered in the new capacitors from TV Repair Kits and put the TV back together.  I still have the green blinking light under Tuner.  So now where do I go from here?  FYI - I checked the SMD fuses on the DM Power board and they were okay.  Additionally I also tested the capacitors I removed and they checked out fine - I had used a tester at work where you can dial in the voltage and both charge and drain them.

I have also read some posts that suggest the STK chips can introduce the green blinking light - is this possible? I would think that if one of the pico fuses were bad on th main board I wouldn't have power to the DM Module and that would probably mean no blinking light?

I have also read that in some cases the DM Module needs to get repaired - is this juat the board or the tuner module that the DM Module is located in too?

March 8, 2010 2:04 AM

no the blown fuse could cause a no voltage condition going to the DM and the tuner and yes sometimes the entire dm needs replacing but they do not have that part available any longer!!
Larry D.

"Those who do not know their opponent's arguments, do not completely understand their own".**For complete TV repair kits including parts goto www.TvRepairKits.com

March 13, 2010 12:54 PM updated: March 13, 2010 12:56 PM

Hello all... I've been reading and this is the most informative site i can find on how to fix the blinking green light. My only problem is that i am not sure if i have the right board pulled out. The Model i am working on is WD 62527 and the part i pulled out is located on the back of the tv on the right side if you was looking at it. This box slid out and the board i am looking at only has 2(jamicon) capacitors and its 2000uf 35v. They do look slight bugling. Just was wondering if anyone has any knowledge on this model and if this is the right board i took apart. Tks

March 13, 2010 1:37 PM updated: March 13, 2010 1:39 PM

yes those two caps are bad they are the black ones there should also be a few blue ones that are also bad. i have a list with pictures if had a way to send them too you. on that board but there are several others that need to be replaced also!!!contact me at techman32k (at) yahoo (dot) com
Larry Dillon
GOOD LUCK!!

"Those who do not know their opponent's arguments, do not completely understand their own".**For complete TV repair kits including parts goto www.TvRepairKits.com

March 13, 2010 3:02 PM

ok awesome... any pic of this board would really be appreciated. I send you an email so hoping to hear back from you soon. Tks again

March 13, 2010 9:39 PM

Have 2003 Mitsubishi WS-65711. Green light blinks for about one minute then goes out, tv will not power up. No matter what I do, reset, unplug, etc. same thing . . . . I replaced all 7 caps on the DM Board that job turned out perfect but still have same problem.
Any suggestions?

March 14, 2010 4:27 AM

sounds like you could have bad convergence ic's but the best thinkg to be sure would be to unsolder the two ic's and take them out of the set and see if the set will turn on then if it does,The best advice I can tell you at this point is to go to TV repair kits.com and order the complete convergence kit for your model of TV set, click on here please: http://www.tvrepairkits.com/xcart/home.php?partner=larry
no need to search and order multiple parts from different sources and pay multiple shipping fees! The kit comes with original Sanyo STK IC'S , not those cheap aftermarket or china made IC'S full pictorial directions, the thermal paste, resistors, the correct Pico fuses, AND free live on-Line tech assistance in case you run into a problem with the repair. They ship out 2 to 3 day Priority mail, the next day in most cases,

"Those who do not know their opponent's arguments, do not completely understand their own".**For complete TV repair kits including parts goto www.TvRepairKits.com

March 14, 2010 10:53 AM

tks for the email and instruction Larry, the only question i have now is my model is WD 62527.. in the manual you send me i didnt see my model listed.. which model come close to the one i have.


WD-52525 WD-52725 WD-52825
WD-62525 WD-62725 WD-62825

March 22, 2010 3:52 AM

i have a WD-62527. my buddy gave it to me for helping him move. he knows i like tinkering. anyways, when i first plugged it in, the green light of death was blinking with no breaks. i took it apart to check the caps. they all look good to me. it was REALLY dusty though! i blew out all the dust and put it back together. well now the light does as is supposed to. it blinks for about a minute and then stops. but the tv wont power on! no picture, sound or lights.
then after a minute, the tv will cycle though the boot system and blink the light for another minute. then a minute break, the another cycle. what could be causing this???

March 24, 2010 12:20 AM

Hi Larry,

I've got a WD62525 that had the green blinking light of death. I tried pulling apart the chassis and replacing the bulging caps with high voltage/high temperature variants, but I still have the same problem. I wouldn't mind picking up one of those repair kits that you've been mentioning, but the link you have been posting leads to the site that doesn't have the kits for any of the Mitsu. DLP TVs. Any suggestions?

March 27, 2010 2:17 PM

I think I figured out the issue with my TV! I removed the E2P module and now my TV powers up - the green blinking LED is gone. So - it is nearly safe to assume that the DM Module power board must be working - correct? So I would think I need to repalce this board now but I am curious as to exactly what this board does - my guess is it stores all the settings and after the power is removed the settings go away - is this correct? Are there any instructions on repalcing this module - is it just put in a n ew one or is there more to it than that...

March 27, 2010 2:32 PM

ZIMZIM said: I think I figured out the issue with my TV! I removed the E2P module and now my TV powers up - the green blinking LED is gone. So - it is nearly safe to assume that the DM Module power board must be working - correct? So I would think I need to repalce this board now but I am curious as to exactly what this board does - my guess is it stores all the settings and after the power is removed the settings go away - is this correct? Are there any instructions on repalcing this module - is it just put in a n ew one or is there more to it than that...
The above fix, or rather assesment, is for my WS 55859 Mitsubishi TV which was plagued by the blinking LED issue!  This all happened after a power hit a few weeks ago.  A repair man wanted over $500 and wouldn'tt guarentee it either.  Presently I can watch TV without this module but I am still trying to figure out exactly what it's function is...  That is where I need help along with any instructions or concerns about replacing it.  I wonder if it can be repaired???

View unverified member's comment - posted by ara

March 29, 2010 11:31 AM

so if you can presently watch tv then why mess with the set??
Larry D

"Those who do not know their opponent's arguments, do not completely understand their own".**For complete TV repair kits including parts goto www.TvRepairKits.com

March 29, 2010 1:14 PM

The E2P module is supposed to contain setup and calibration information. I don't know what the extent of the info is, but I'd imagine it holds things like linearity correction settings. How does the picture look without the module? If it isn't noticeably distorted and other functions seem to hold their setting after being powered down, I probably wouldn't mess with it.

I've seen some talk about the E2P module getting corrupted by bad front panel switches.

Try this: disconnect the front panel switches, put the E2P module back in, and try powering up the set with the remote. If that works, get into the service menus and find a menu to reset the TV to initial defaults (possibly menu 2170). Reset it, connect the front panel switches back up, and see how it works.

March 29, 2010 1:41 PM

Well - I installed the E2P module back in to verify that it wouldn't work - which it didn't. Then I pulled it back out again because I figured at least I could watch the TV. Well now I got the blinking LED again. Darn - I kinda wish I would have left it be as Larry suggested above. My concern was that it obviously does something or they wouldn't have installed it in there. Anyway I went ahead and ordered the part.

Yes I tried disconnecting the panel but that didn't work. My guess is that the uPC has gotten corrupted somehow and doesn't want to boot. The E2P must have played a part in it as it worked when I pulled it out but my guess is that after I reinstalled the E2P which required pulling the plug it must of killed some of the settings in the uPC on the Demod. So hopefully a new E2P will fix this. The other part in question would be the Demod-B board which I am guessing is the uPC. I see these can be purcahsed as refurbished but not new.

I spent much time working on this and I am uite determined to figure it out! There is one other item I read from anotehr thread. Apparently the tuner can cause this and there is a jumper that can be removed. I have not tried this nor have I located it yet as I just learned of this. I have a feeling I am so very close to figuring this out though...

March 29, 2010 1:51 PM

ZIMZIM said: Well - I installed the E2P module back in to verify that it wouldn't work - which it didn't. Then I pulled it back out again because I figured at least I could watch the TV. Well now I got the blinking LED again. Darn - I kinda wish I would have left it be as Larry suggested above. My concern was that it obviously does something or they wouldn't have installed it in there. Anyway I went ahead and ordered the part. Yes I tried disconnecting the panel but that didn't work. My guess is that the uPC has gotten corrupted somehow and doesn't want to boot. The E2P must have played a part in it as it worked when I pulled it out but my guess is that after I reinstalled the E2P which required pulling the plug it must of killed some of the settings in the uPC on the Demod. So hopefully a new E2P will fix this. The other part in question would be the Demod-B board which I am guessing is the uPC. I see these can be purcahsed as refurbished but not new. I spent much time working on this and I am uite determined to figure it out! There is one other item I read from anotehr thread. Apparently the tuner can cause this and there is a jumper that can be removed. I have not tried this nor have I located it yet as I just learned of this. I have a feeling I am so very close to figuring this out though...
More bad news!  The E2P part is no longer available as new.  I guess I can inquire about a refurbished one now...  They sell refurbished demod-B boards too - I don't like to necesarrily just purcahse parts in the hope for a fix - gets expensive but I am curious for an opinion on what to do here.

March 29, 2010 8:59 PM

The plot thickens with my WS-55859 TV! So I got home from work this evening and I decided to power the TV up - why not right? The E2P was still pulled out and I even unplugged the front panel board. Well - it powered up! The only issue is the picture isn't so hot - there are some vertical lines on the right side of the picture. So it must take a while - when the power is off for the capacitors to drain fully and whatever corrupt information was stored in the uPC to get cleared - at least that is what I am guessing anyway. So now I am wondering if the front panel isn't bad either -since it powered up without this being plugged in???

So I now have two options here:

Option-1 - unplug the the TV and install the E2P back in but leave the front panel display unplugged. If the TV boots up this means the front panel is corrupting the DM somehow - stuck or failing button... if it will not power up then it is back to the E2P module being the culprit again.

Option-2 - power down the TV and connect the front panel display to see if it works. I could have sworn the other day the front panel was working without the E2P module - almost certain...

At any rate I am still heavily leaning towards the E2P on this. It's very strange that both times I got the TV to boot up without it installed. It obviously holds memory settings which from the manual claims 29 settings. The present E2P in my opinion is somehow corrupt and when connected it supplies the uPC with invalid settings which take around 24 hours of the TV being powered down, the plug pulled out, for the settings to clear out.

I am posting as much of this information as possible as I am convinced that there are probably many victims of the same scenario. I also read some other posts about Mitsubishi repalcing the E2P on other customers TVs which fixed similar problems.

So - befiore I do anything I want to see if I can restore the picture to its original quality. If I can access the menus Iam going to see if I can adjust the picture so it is correct. I have the factory settings from the service manual so I will see if I cabn restore the picture without the DM.

Any feedback or suggestions is most appreciated.

March 29, 2010 10:37 PM

check and be sure every button on the front board all have the same detent or feeling. if not take out that switch that does not feel right and try the set on the remote.I have seen many EP-2 module to be defective in these sets!!!
Larry D.

"Those who do not know their opponent's arguments, do not completely understand their own".**For complete TV repair kits including parts goto www.TvRepairKits.com

Discussion:    Add a Comment | Back to Top | Comments 301-325 of 529 | Latest Comment | « Previous 111 12 13 14 15 1622 Next »

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