I don't know where you get the time for your excellent input to the forums.
Categories: Televisions and Projectors
This is for model numbers WS55859, WS65869, WS55909, WS65909, WS63909. You can get a free copy of the service manual at TechLore's Technician's Corner located in the resources tab on the home page or click HERE. This will give you an idea on what needs to be done for the other models as the tools and procedture is the same. The different models do have different IC's to see what IC each model has go to this TechLore Forum Discussion.
First, it is very important that you have some soldering experience working on solid state printed circuit boards, and that you know too much heat from the soldering iron will most likely ruin the PC (printed circuit) board. If this happens, it can be a very difficult repair. The boards are no longer available for these sets from Mitsubishi, so I cannot stress enough - if you have no soldering experience, let a pro assist you in this repair.
One more very important thing to remember and NOT DO!! If the convergence is way out or cannot be adjusted by the customer controls, do not go into the service menu and try to adjust the convergence. It will only make it very difficult to adjust the set after it has been repaired. The service menu adjustments are to make MINOR drifting alignments, as over time, the adjustments may drift a bit due to part tolerance changing.
For the information below I am using the Adobe Reader Eight (8). If the page numbers do not match up as I have explained, then you will need to upgrade to the newest version of Adobe Reader. You can download it here.
Next, let’s get together the equipment you will need to work on this puppy. You will need:
- A #2 Phillips screwdriver to first remove the backboard in the rear of the TV set as described on page 10 of the service manual.
- A small soldering iron with a desoldering bulb to remove the solder on the pins of the IC’s. I recommend an inexpensive one from Radio Shack. It is a 45 watt type, item number 64-2060.
- A small amount of rosin core solder to re-solder back in the new convergence IC’s. You can get that at Radio Shack also. The item number is 64-017.
- Heat sink compound or thermal paste. The item number is number is 55014135.
- You also might wish to pick up a small amount of solder braid to assist you in cleaning up the area around the un-soldered pins of the convergence IC after you remove it. It is very important to make sure you have no solder splashes or bits of solder lying around or across any of the adjacent circuits.
- ONE (1) STK393-110 convergence Amp IC. I recommend getting those from here. The reason I recommend this distributor - I have ordered many of IC’s (for a lot less money), but they are not original Sanyo IC’s. Yes, these IC’s in this Mitsubishi set is made by Sanyo. Many of the less expensive IC’s are not original and the aftermarket types made in China. I have heard also that some parts distributors buy factory reject IC’s and sell them as good original IC’s. That being said, it 's up to you if you want to be back in your set several months down the road because of another convergence problem. Play it safe, and stay original.
- A small multimeter or DMM (digital multimeter) and know how to use it. You can get the five (5) amp pico fuses if you need them from here.
Next, (and this is a very important step) - MAKE SURE THE TV SET IS UNPLUGGED FROM THE WALL SOCKET!! This may seem a bit redundant, but I cannot count how many times I have seen technicians rush into a job and forget to unplug a set from the wall.
Now let’s get into the set! First remove the back board by removing 20 or 21 screws from the back board of this set. This is described on page ten (10) of the service manual. Next, remove the left and right speaker grill covers as well as the center part of the TV set in the front. These simply pull off so do not be afraid to pull on them a little, side to side, until they come off.
Next, take off the front board by removing six (6) screws. This is all on page nine (9) of the service manual. Now, remove three (3) screws securing the entire chassis in the rear of the set as described on page fifteen (15) of the service manual. Unclip the two (2) chassis locks in the front of the TV set as the locks are shown on the front of the chassis on page 16 of the service manual. Slide the chassis out toward the rear of the unit and slide upwards to access the bottom of the printed circuit board.
Look at page sixteen (16), towards the bottom of the page. There, right in the middle of the power board (the board in the middle part of the chassis), notice the large metal block with fins on it. On that block, which is called a heat sink, is a line that says IC8C01 & IC8C02 conv. Outputs. That is a mistake in this service manual. There is only one (1) Conv. output IC in this set and it is marked IC8C01.
You want to first locate the two (2) pico fuses on the main power supply board. If one or more of these are not bad, your convergence IC is most likely not the problem with the set. This is not always the case, maybe the IC opened up and not shorted, therefore blowing out the fuses. However, I have not seen this condition very often.
The fuses are marked ON THE BOARD, as F9A04 and F9A05. They are located next to or near a large transformer labeled on the board as T9A50. They do not look like regular glass fuse, but more like resistors. Measure for a short or full continuity across both of them. If one or both are bad, DO NOT simply replace them, the IC is bad, and replacing them will cause further power supply damage. Fuses do not blow in this set unless there is a problem. My experience has been, "if a fuse or two are bad, find out why it blew." These are 5 amp pico fuses, and can be ordered from the link that I have posted above. These pico fuses control the plus and the minus 24 volts to the convergence IC.
Be sure to check the resistance of several feedback resistors. They are labeled on the PC board as R8C05, R8C06, R8C13, R8C14, R8C21, R8C22, R8C29, R8C30, R8C37, R8C38, R8C45, and R8C46. These resistors are flameproof and are 3.9 ohm resistors@ two (2) watts. The other resistors in this convergence circuit that sometimes will burn up are labeled on the board as, R8C07, R8C15, R8C23, R8C31, R8C39, and R8C47. These resistors are also the flameproof type. The values of these resistors are 150 ohms @ three (3) watts. Also, if you have the plus and minus 24 volts on the power supply but not on the convergence IC pins numbers 10, 12, 13, 15, 16, and 18, check the two coils labels on the board as L8C01 and L8C02. If one or more of these cols are bad, replace C8C05, and C8C03. They are 1000uf@50 volts.
The next thing you want to do is to carefully remove all of the solder on the convergence output IC pins. Make sure each pin is free to move around inside of the hole. Unscrew the two screws that attach the IC to the heat sink and remove the IC from the printed circuit board and the heat sink. Sometimes the silicone thermal paste dries up and you have to pry off the IC, but it will pop off. Do your best to scrape off any large amount or clumps of old thermal paste on the heat sink. It does not have to be shiny clean though.
Make sure all of the pins of the new IC are all lines up, and straight. It makes the re-install easier. Apply a liberal coating on the back side of the new IC, not too much as it will get all over the place. Just enough to coat the back side of the new IC. Now, insert the IC back into the board and making sure all of the IC pins go straight into the holes, and do not bend or short out against each other.
Carefully solder each pin at a time on the board, watching and being careful not to short or bridge any solder on to the adjacent pins or circuit pads. Double, no triple, check your soldering job. Clean up any excessive solder flux with a cue tip and alcohol.
Reinstall the chassis and make sure that any plugs you disconnected are back into their proper connector. Double check every plug and connector by hand, not by sight, for loose or shifted connections.
Plug in the set and see if you did your job correctly. If the set will not come on, check the pico fuses again. If one or more are bad again, the IC is bad, or there is a short across one of the pins. If the set comes on, but the convergence is way out, you may have a bad feedback resistor or two. If you messed with the convergence before you replaced the IC, you may need a pro to assist you in making the final convergence adjustments.
Good luck and be carefull!
Another Very nice article by Larry, this will help many people keep these great sets working.
Mitsubishi WS-55513, Philips 55pp9352/17
So sorry to hear about your sad news. I have only read your TV service posts for the last few weeks but it appears that you are an "old dog" at this TV game.
Back in the 70's when the first Asian microwaves appeared on the market, sensitive microwave radiation meters were made available for service as there was very little leakage to measure compared to the primitive North American manufactured products.
A lot of jokes were made about "lead underware" when working near the American made microwave products. Similar jokes were made about the TV techs with their heads stuck inside TVs trying to see or hear arcing and hissing from HV components. I wonder if some of the jokes should have been well heeded warnings.
I believe some of your most important comments to the users with problems were regarding the possible serious damages and dangers involved with service of consumer electronic equipment.
Good luck to you Larry. Good work. I already had a list of things I wanted to ask you.
Larry, best wishes on your recovery. I hope you are able to get back to your normal schedule, and write many more articles in the future. You have that rare combination of knowledge, the willingness to share it, and the ability to communicate it.
Mitsubishi WS-55513, Philips 55pp9352/17
I am a big fan of the Mitsubishi WS series crt rear projectors, but still sorting through the differences in the models on upscaling and screen specs. 1080i and upconverting dvd player standard dvd's are outstanding.
Your repair/maintenance posts have helped me and many others save these sets.
Good luck with the voice recognition, I bet it will be a big help with the writing.
Mitsubishi WS-55513, Philips 55pp9352/17
Larry old Buddy I hope you get better.:)
The world would not be the same without your sense of humor and your great technical knowledge.
Easy to understand tips on repairs and great explanations of how things work are the best.
I worked with you and still IM regulary through Techlore and other sources now that we live in different states.For almost 30 years now since we met in the 1980's in Queens, New York.
Big Screen TV's were just taking off and already you knew how to service them.
I really enjoyed troubleshooting with you and sharing both our ways to find a solution to whatever problem a set could throw at us and we fixed it.
Good luck buddy.
Your friend ,
This is a first. Great article. I have Mitsubishi Model 55511 of which I'm going to use this article on. Needless to say, I'm a bit apprehensive about it. But like I said, this is my first tme.
To tell you a little bit about my television. It is a 55" Mitsubishi, Model 55511 It plays fine except it has red background shadows, like I'm watching it in 3-d. The blue and green are fine.
Could use a little advice.
Larry, I have read a number of the blog entries about the "green light" problem I am having. can you please send me a copy of the instruction file (with pictures) that could fix the problem show me how to take out the DM board, find the bad parts, and show me where to get replacements parts. I know a guy who is handy with solder and could fix me up. i have a mitsubishi ws-65813.
Good info you provide Larry. I downloaded a service manual for a VS-60707. Looks like I will be able to use it with my VS-60705. I know the IC's are diff. Thank you for providing the IC part numbers also.
Thanks to Larry Dillons article "Replacing Convergence IC on a Mitsubishi set". I was able to repair my television like brand new.
Thanks for the article Larry Dillon
ok I replaced two pico fuses and now it turns on but I cannot get the colors right with the crosshairs so I took the board out and found r8c29 and r8c30 bad replaced them and I worked for 10 sec. and their bad again and will not turn on do I need to check r8c26 and c8c23 or replace ic chip
Larry Dillon said: you need to replace the convergnce IC first.
Larrry i replace ic chip set comes on but now i have two red cross hair
i upload two file of what the screen looks like
i ger code 12 which is no error
can anynoe tell me where to order ic9a20
Larry Dillon said: if you replaced the fuses before you replacd the IC's you proably blew the fuses again and or blew out some resistors., never ever replace he fuses without first replacing the IC's first!, I thought I made this clear in the article?
I got it working i bought a bad ic chip took it back today and they replaced it
Thanks for the help
Sunday my WS 55859 picture went out but I could still hear sound. On Monday the screen was sort of garbled and no sound. By Tuesday, I'd turn it on and nothing would happen and after like 5 seconds, the screen would turn blue for a second then it would shut itself off and the green light would blink. Is this the IC convergence issue? Any help is much appreciated.
I've read numerous posts regarding the IC going bad in Mitsu stes. I have a WT-42311 that has since turned itself off and refuses to come on. I get the dreaded 2-2 error code. I've ordered the replacement ICs from the place you recommend. Now, I have read that other components need to be replaced as well. Could you tell me what pico fuses, transistors, caps, etc I should replace and where to get them? It would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance and I hop you are feeling better.