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Troubleshooting a TV For a Dead Condition (Page 2 of 2)

 

The Main Power Supply

The next step in troubleshooting would be to check the main power supply. First, check the bridge rectifiers. A bridge rectifier could be a combination of four silicon diodes or a square rectangle type package. Use the diode function on your multimeter and see if there’s a short across one of them, or perhaps between the pins of the rectifier block. If there’s no short there, measure across the main B+ filter capacitor, but make sure you discharge it as described earlier! If there’s a dead short there, take out the cap or disconnect one end to see if it’s shorted. If not, reinstall or resolder, then measure the transistors and diodes around the power supply area. If you don’t find a short with one of those components, go to the horizontal/sweep power supply circuit.

The Horizontal Output Transistor & Flyback

First, locate the horizontal output transistor. This is found very close to, or next to, the horizontal output transformer (also known as the flyback). The flyback should be on an aluminum heat sink, or on the side of the metal chassis. Disconnect or unsolder two of the three legs of the transistor. Measure it with your meter, or plug in the set with the light bulb attached across the fuse.

If the transistor is shorted, or the light bulb doesn’t glow bright anymore, replace the transistor

and plug back in. If the light bulb glows bright again, you must replace both the flyback and horizontal output transistor simultaneously. In some cases this will fix the set, but sometimes there are multiple problems with a set.

Go to where the flyback is, and start measuring the diodes and capacitors on the flyback itself. If you don't find any shorts there, it could be a shorted vertical output IC, a shorted sound IC, a shorted disc capacitor in the Hi Voltage/sweep circuit, or in rare cases, a shorted capacitor or tuner.

Final Thoughts

You will find the short in the board if you're persistent. Just remember, do not replace the fuse if the bulb stayed bright, as this could cause additional damage to the set. I have experienced a few occasions where lighting has hit a cable or electric line outside, and damaged every IC in the set.

The fixes described here are general, common problems that occur when a television set goes dead. Remember that working inside of a television should never be taken lightly, and that safety should always come first.

by Larry Dillon

Image and editing by Matt Whitlock

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Discussion:    Add a Comment | Comments 1-9 of 9 | Latest Comment

September 4, 2008 9:10 PM

very informative article:my problem is understanding,how do you ,test ic resistor,diodes and everything else on a board :where everything is connected in one way or another.how can you seperate ,each individually ,without taking it apart.

September 27, 2008 5:02 AM

I have a phillips television, it comes on but cut off almost instantly, you can turn it back on but is stays on for a second then cuts off again and keeps on doing that what can be the problem?

October 6, 2008 2:45 PM

Larry,

 Had a hard time trying figure out your email, hopefully you get this and respond.  I have the Mitsubishi Death Blink issue going on with my model WD-52525 and was hoping you could give the part #'s for the capacitors I need to fix this problem, along with the procedures.  My email is scrumpy@surewest.net.

Thanks,

Jerry

October 6, 2008 4:19 PM

thre are part numbers I posted at the end of the e-mail
http://www.mouser.com/search/refine.aspx?Ntt=140-HTRL16V1000-RC%09
And
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=N98n18CgKlweB%252bCgTM8ZbQ...

"Those who do not know their opponet's arguments, do not completely understand their own".

October 6, 2008 5:14 PM

Larry Dillon said: thre are part numbers I posted at the end of the e-mail http://www.mouser.com/search/refine.aspx?Ntt=140-HTRL16V1000-RC%09 And http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=N98n18CgKlweB%252bCgTM8ZbQ...

Thanks for the info on the parts.  Do have the procedures for removal of the card cage?

Thanks again.

October 11, 2008 8:20 PM

Scrumpy did you ever get the procedure for locating and removing the Hi-Temp Radial Electrolytic Capacitors.

October 25, 2008 6:13 PM

Larry Dillon said: thre are part numbers I posted at the end of the e-mail http://www.mouser.com/search/refine.aspx?Ntt=140-HTRL16V1000-RC%09 And http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=N98n18CgKlweB%252bCgTM8ZbQ...
Larry, where and what is the  procedure for changing the Hi-Temp Radial Electrolytic Capacitors.

November 26, 2008 3:40 PM

Larry that was a very helpful article Thanks will help to keep my fingers from getting burned Bob

September 14, 2009 7:26 PM

Glad I found your article. My electronics friend left for Puerto Rico to marry and I am on my own. Until I can find someonw who can do electronic, I will read about the repairs and if I come across something I can do, I will. Thanks for the information, but I believe I will just replace the set as the repairs are too expensive.

Discussion:    Add a Comment | Back to Top | Comments 1-9 of 9 | Latest Comment

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